Ok guys I have a 2000cummins and it was running great till today I started up a grade in 598th gear no issue till half way up it started stumbling only at 1800 rpm and up while in the throttle so I turned around and took it home and got the car and did my running well after I returned home I started it back up and it stumbled for a few min at idle and cleared up till I raved it to 3000rpm and it started stumbling and blue smoking and right befor I let off it poped in the exhaust. It also has 14 psi fuel pressure and no cel what could be causing this?

Mine lasted a month after the code appeared. 

Use 2 stroke and let her warm up.

Will tcw work for oil I have some quick silver. Laying around for my pontoon I could dump 2 oz in it along with some antigel. Starting to get some freezing temps and I'm from east tn and industrial was my first choice for a vp

I would forgo the anti gel for now. It counteracts the 2 stroke. I have never had to use anti gel for the life of the truck and have had no issues. That is with straight #2 diesel. You should be good down to near 0* with out it. Coldest have ever seen is -10*. Bio is less cold friendly and there is a lot of out there these days. I am not sure how cold you can get with it. This is just my personal experience and some other members are more versed in this.

I live just down I 40 in Hickory NC and have been coming thru eastern TN quite a bit here lately. I am currently working in Muscle Shoals AL. Not sure where the next job is but if is has me passing thru your neck of the woods I could lend a hand changing that pump out. I know how it feels to get hit with 2 big ticket items at once when your wallet is full of dust. Replacing the pump is not difficult.

Thanks for the offer. Well i Got to work on it sum today pulled the old fuel filter out and found it sucked together I thought I'd found the issue but quickly found another after the filter change I ouldnt get it to prime the lift pump was running and moving very little fuel so I stuck a old one I had on it and primed this time it picked up fuel on the first time and truck started but pump was weak any way so it only makes 8 psi so I'm Thinking the filter might have been hiding a failed lift pump and May just need to get a fass what ya guys think

I would have to vote for a new fuel system. Electric or mechanical, they both have benefits. I have an AD that served me well for 5 years but then had a pump failure. Hope that does not repeat itself. Anything is better than the stocker.

It does appear that you have at lest located the problem.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Edited November 21, 20159 yr by dripley

I hope so it really amazed me how it Had good fuel psi till I opend the system then nothing but fass will be ordered soon and well see but how are I guys gettin a gauge hook up mine is in the filter and that will go away with the fass has any one had any luck wihe putting the gauge to the outlet on the fass I'm gettin a titanium series and it has a built in port for the guage

I kept my oe fuel canister and tapped the line from it to the IP.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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That's a good option but wouldn't I need to do the big line lot for the vp to get larger bango volts ect the fass set up is desgned to go straight to the vp for best fuel supply to the pump would it not be best to bypass the or filter

I did the big line kit and I kept the oe filter housing for the fuel heater, water in fuel sensor, extra filtration and such. Is it really needed, maybe not. Just how I did it. if you run the line straight to the vp you can do the same thing, just cut it into the new line. As far as the port on the fass for a gauge I dont know anything good or bad about it.

Well guys installed my new fass titanium 95gph with vp big line kit today thought all was good till I got it prime when it builds pressure with out the truck running the pressure will fluxuate and the pump pulses the return fuel from the fass has any one had this issue

could be as simple as return ball and spring, they lay on the shelf too long and do that occasionally, call fass and tell them you got pressure spikes at idle and they will send you out new spring and ball for free, most of the time. if that doesn't fix the problem  it can be that something is restrictive in fuel system and the only way to do it right is to make sure you're 1/2 " all the way around, fuel basket and all. Also do this to the return spring see picture. This way ball doesn't get jammed in the spring. 

Edited November 28, 20159 yr by Dieselfuture

i will check that. it does it even when the truck isn't running, im pulling tru the stock tank moduel would this be the issue

Ok guys here's the plan im going to install my mechanical gauge and ditch the electonic then I'm going to do a bucket test to see if the fuel canister is at fault about 3 years ago it came apart so I'm wondering if it's at fault again if it is what is. The best option sense I done spliced the fuel neck I don't want to return to a draw straw. In this case would I be able to all the draw straw to the fuel canister 

ok guys got a Vulcan draw straw 1 coming is there any thing special I need to know before I install it, I did the bucket test on the fass and it worked perfect but theres sumn wrong in the fuel canaster

I just pulled my tank last weekend.  There are a few things...  One, is that the canister has two check valves and a screen.  That screen could be plugged up.  Mine was plugged with dirt. 

You can carefully disassemble the bottom of the canister that has the screen by carefully depressing the nylon prongs that hold the base on.  The whole canister can come apart, but it really isn't worth it.  Then you can clean the screen out or just ignore it since the draw straw is going in.  I removed the screen and the bottom check valve so I don't trap fuel in the canister. 

The easiest way to drop the tank, IMO is to use a ratchet strap around each end of the tank.  Tie one end to the frame, and one end to the bed frame.  I found it easier to do if I dropped the driveshaft as well.  Then just lower the tank down after removing the two bolts holding the two straps on.  The frame side of the straps just fit into slots and get worked out. 

 

OK guy I finnaly got it straightened out I dropped the tank ratchet wraps worked great found many issues with it installed the draw straw and that helped but I still hadpressure issues I took a video and sent it to fass and they sent me out a new ball and spring after that Iwhile waiting I stretched the old spring about 3/4 in and reinstalled now I have I consistant 18psi at idle an 16 at wot no surging also this took care of the stumble it had no further issues as of now. Thanks for thehrelp when I got the code for the VP I panniced cause of lack of funds