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Today i went out and popped my hood to check the oil and noticed my drivers side negative battery cable was unhooked like it came loose. I thought i fixed my apps when i reset it but i must have just forgot to put the negative cable back on the battery. So is my rapid studdering a bad APPS? or is it a bad alternator? I do have the p0122 code and it cleared while the cable was unhooked.  I dont wanna replace one and have it be the other. But while the negative cable was unhooked i didnt have any issue with my shuddering. Im kinda stuck until i figure this out.cause i cant drive over 50mph without it shuddering like crazy. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, kimber

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  • Mopar1973Man
    Mopar1973Man

    Lock and unlock is the alternator. I would pull the alternator have have it tested for AC noise. The P0122 is just a lo volt code for the APPS sensor. Typically this would make for a dead pedal m

  • You can pull the fuse on the alternator and see if that helps. It will just run on battery power then and take the alternator out of the equation.

  • Another thing to check out is all the connections to and from the alternator.  Up there in the rust belt especially.  Check the field wire and the feed wire from the alternator that routes from the al

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  • Author

Whats making these alternators last for a week or 2 then the a/c voltagw issue starts again.   Is there something wrong in the trucks wiring that couldbe causing this? Or is it just the alternators are doo doo?

  • Author
On 1/5/2016 at 10:51 PM, Mopar1973Man said:

Just cheap reman'ed alternators and lots of cheap China made parts.

 

Lol thats what im hoping.  I try explaining to people that the alternator is garbage and they say ive never heard of this withany vehicle in my life.  And i tell them to talk to a 24valve owner lol

  • Owner

Don't think Ford and Chevy's don't have the same problem they do. The manifest in different problems. Most don't check the alternator for AC noise issues concerning electronic failures.

  • 3 months later...
  • Author

Well im bring this thread back up.  Cause ive changed my alternator 7 times since this issue.  Each time i do it the truck runs great no issues then after exactly a week my issue comes right back.  What could be causing my alternators to fail prematurely like this and cause this a/c noise.  Its very frustrating,  and 4 of these alternators were brand new not refurbs.  Im also getting a low voltage apps code.  Could my issue be my apps and when im hooking my batteries back up and resetting my apps its fixing it temporarily? 

If you keep getting an apps code I would look into that also.  

 

 

If the PCM senses you are pulling out of the throttle it will unlock the TC.

  • Author

Yea im so frustrated with this.  It complete quit doing it through the winter then on the first warm day it started again.

Gotta love these old trucks.

 

 

Right now I have

1. a PCM that is locking the TC all the time, I don't have time to dig into it right now so I am driving my auto like a manual.

2. ABS nad brake light on all of the sudden

3. ball joints that are as loose as bells, replaced them 10k ago

3. some random knock in the front end....... 

  • Author

Hell this is a new truck to me ive drove a 77 gmc for the past 10 years.

Think of it this way,

 

 

Do you still use a computer that was built in 1998 and is running windows 98?    You are driving a truck that is VERY VERY VERY old in computer terms.

 

 

  • Author

So i just unplugged the alternator which is brand new last week and started the locking and unlocking of the tc and plugged it bacl in and now its fine.  

  • Author

Could there be something thats causing the premature failure of these alternators?

  • Staff
On ‎4‎/‎11‎/‎2016 at 10:00 AM, Me78569 said:

Think of it this way,

 

 

Do you still use a computer that was built in 1998 and is running windows 98?    You are driving a truck that is VERY VERY VERY old in computer terms.

 

 

Nick Im glad for my old stuff. It seems to be less problematic.

 

Think of this new stuff... automated emergency braking and Cops can stop your rig from running in a chase. 

 

 

 

3 hours ago, ruedger455 said:

Could there be something thats causing the premature failure of these alternators?

Yes some come with a bad diode right out of the box and then if you accidently cross wires or jump start someone the wrong way, but, I think the Alt builders are at fault too for building less quality inside them.

Edited by JAG1

Never meant to say the old stuff is bad, just that it is, well old in computer terms so we cannot expect it to work without issues from time to time.  

 

 

for what they had to work with in 1997-8 the vp44 system is actually REALLY awesome.

  • Author

Im thinking about putting some larger battery cables in next time i swap the alternator.  

On 1/5/2016 at 7:50 AM, Mopar1973Man said:

Don't think Ford and Chevy's don't have the same problem they do. The manifest in different problems. Most don't check the alternator for AC noise issues concerning electronic failures.

Funny you say that, when I got parts for my alternator at local Electric place, first thing he told me is if it's a wired electrical problem we always check ac voltage before going any further. Now this is a guy that knows about it, but like you mentioned most people don't and just by pure luck after changing everything and the alternator, problem goes away. And of course if you buy an alternator at part store chances are it's not going to last. Reason it wasn't a big deal back in a day not only quality was better but cars didn't have all these electronics that so easy effected by ac noise.

On 4/11/2016 at 11:37 AM, Me78569 said:

Gotta love these old trucks.

 

 

Right now I have

1. a PCM that is locking the TC all the time, I don't have time to dig into it right now so I am driving my auto like a manual.

2. ABS nad brake light on all of the sudden

3. ball joints that are as loose as bells, replaced them 10k ago

3. some random knock in the front end....... 

So what ball joints not to buy or I should say which ones did you get 10k ago? I just bought a set of original cpicer joints but haven't put them in yet, might give it another year or two as I don't hardly drive it. Just use it when I need it. 

  • Staff
8 hours ago, Me78569 said:

Never meant to say the old stuff is bad, just that it is, well old in computer terms so we cannot expect it to work without issues from time to time.  

 

 

for what they had to work with in 1997-8 the vp44 system is actually REALLY awesome.

You know the hackers will figure out a way to shut your car down the same way police will get control. I know it's in the planning right now.

 

And what would I do if I couldn't put 2 stroke in my truck anymore?:ahhh:

  • Author

Ok guys got something else for you.  When i bought the truckit came woth a smarty tuner and i never used it and assumed that the previous owner took it back to stock tune.  Well he didnt.  I plugged it in and it was vin locked to my truck etc.  So i started fiddling with it and put the truck back to stock from tune #3 and then looked at the codes my truck had low voltage apps and after i looked at it,  the codes cleared and i went for a drive and no more apps code and no more tc lock up issues.  Could my smarty have thrown the 1693 code or whatever it was along withthe 0122 apps code?

 

Update: Scratch that the codes returned with no smarty.  

Edited by ruedger455