Hey guys. I got a pretty loud knock happening with the old Cummins and could use some help identifying it. My alternator went out on a business trip this week. In an attempt to limp the truck to the next town I ran it dead. I had a new alternator put in it and got it all charged back up. 

When I fired it back up it was smoking a lot I had a miss and knocked real bad. I put about 20 miles on it and the miss/smoke went away but the knock is still there. 

It changes up and down with engine speed. I have checked under the hood or tools left over belt issues and anything obvious. Boost fuel pressure and exhaust temp are all normal. 

No check engine light but I will pull codes next time I get a moment. 

Any help would be greatly appreciated!! 

With HX35W turbo and RV275 you a long ways from needing studs... The turbo price is excellent!

my truck has rv275 sticks and drives real nice, plenty o power on stock everything. but i mostly use a low setting on the juice to keep from smoking. i have it set to defuel at 30psi as well and 1250F to keep everything reliable and happy

Edited March 8, 20169 yr by CUMMINSDIESELPWR

I bet your turbo would overspeed and grenade before your stock bolts would stretch and head would lift. Also, I don't think the RV275s can provide enough fuel for that.  

7 hours ago, CTcummins24V said:

I bet your turbo would overspeed and grenade before your stock bolts would stretch and head would lift. Also, I don't think the RV275s can provide enough fuel for that.  

You have to be well above 40-45 PSI to even be worried about studs. Even with my +50 HP injectors, HX35W turbo and Edge Comp on 5x3 I just barely tap 36-37 PSI worth of boost. Typically well below 35 PSI most times. My boost gauge warning light is set for 35 PSI so if I exceed it it flickers on and flickers right back off.

My advice, if you got money to waste put studs in now, that way later you don't have to worry about it if you upgrade anything else. If builder is good your motor should last a long time, how do you know what will happen down the road. And if you sell it people look for them upgrades.  

17 hours ago, Ilikeoldfords said:

They offer an option of installing ARP head studs for $650. I was wanting studs just for the peace of mind but I am not sure if I can justify that extra cost now. The problem is if I don't have them install studs during the build I have to wait until the warranty is up before I can put them in. What do you guys think? 

I did a quick search on the web and APR2000 bolts for the 5.9 run about $430-450 so they are charging you around $200 to install them which seems steep if the head bolts are "free".  Head studs are always a better option then head bolts, even for mild builds as they apply a more even pressure across the head/block.  

 

So at the moment I don't have any plans on going any more on the power side than the HX and RV275's will push. With the idea of saving money I will wait on the studs for now. That is a lot of money and I knew they were very over priced. If I have an issue down the road or decide to step up the power I will looks at doing studs then. 

Thanks for the input. $650 is a lot of money that I can put someplace else right now. 

you can always do studs later on without removing the head. just gotta do them one at a time then torque, drive for a bit then torque again or whatever the procedure is for arp studs

On 3/8/2016 at 5:43 PM, Mopar1973Man said:

You have to be well above 40-45 PSI to even be worried about studs. Even with my +50 HP injectors, HX35W turbo and Edge Comp on 5x3 I just barely tap 36-37 PSI worth of boost. Typically well below 35 PSI most times. My boost gauge warning light is set for 35 PSI so if I exceed it it flickers on and flickers right back off.

Speaking of your 50hp injectors......

Being as that you have run the rv275's and now the 50hp's, which do you prefer? I am checking through DAP and they are the same price if I go either way. Even up to 75hp's. Are the 50hp's worth it? Do you lose any fuel mileage with those over the RV's?

Just trying to figure out which route I am going go with this.

Here is the kicker.

If you order RV275 most of the time a guy runs around back grabs 6 random injectors and tosses them in a box and ships them to you. When I order my +50 HP from Vulcan Performance Eric put the extra effort into them and pop tested and flow match them for me. So there is a bit better quality in these +50 HP injectors versus say an off the shelf RV275 injector.

So if you discuss it with the injector vendor and ask for the extra effort be put into the injector set it will net you better out come.

As for MPG's mostly remained the same. Since the price of fuel fell to $2 a gallon I gave up the hypermiling. So my MPG's are actually lower like hover around 19-21 MPG typically empty but weather is still rather cold up here yet.

Ok fellas. I finally got around to having a remaned Long block built. What odds and ends and extras should I get for doing the swap? Should I worry about the killer dowel pin? Water pump? Vacuum pump? 

I got all the normal stuff like hoses, belt, thermostat, etc. I did go with some new RV275's. I am having the factory HX35 rebuilt. 

I think I might get the pilot and throw out bearings. 

 

What say you guys? 

5 minutes ago, Ilikeoldfords said:

Ok fellas. I finally got around to having a remaned Long block built. What odds and ends and extras should I get for doing the swap? Should I worry about the killer dowel pin? Water pump? Vacuum pump? 

I got all the normal stuff like hoses, belt, thermostat, etc. I did go with some new RV275's. I am having the factory HX35 rebuilt. 

I think I might get the pilot and throw out bearings. 

 

What say you guys? 

If you don't know whether the timing case is tapered or not go ahead and bolt a tab over it, although most 01's were tapered.

 

PS pump seal??

Throwout & pilot are a great idea.

Trans fluid if it's time.

Crossover tubes & O rings depending on condition.

Banjo washers for the back of the head and possibly the rubber connections at the hard line (T near the back of the engine.)

 

Can't think of anything else at the moment.

Does rebuild come with a new harmonic balancer?

 That is a good question on the harmonic balancer.  Are the fluidampers worth it? I am getting the new pilot bearing and throw out bearing coming. I also have the sealing washers for the back of the head. 

24 minutes ago, Ilikeoldfords said:

 That is a good question on the harmonic balancer.  Are the fluidampers worth it? I am getting the new pilot bearing and throw out bearing coming. I also have the sealing washers for the back of the head. 

Define worth it.... If you're up in the high rpms with high HP I would say yes. Otherwise I would say pick up a stock one. They are cheaper and still get the job done.

Stock one it is then. Where is everyone getting the seal kit for the vacuum/ps pump? That's usually a problem spot isn't it? 

Yes it usually is. I picked mine up on ebay. Just make sure the box in the picture shows a cummins box with the seal!

On 7/11/2016 at 3:46 PM, Ilikeoldfords said:

Stock one it is then. Where is everyone getting the seal kit for the vacuum/ps pump? That's usually a problem spot isn't it? 

where i got mine from for my rebuild

 

http://puredieselpower.com/dodge-products/94-02-cummins-vacuum-pump-reseal-kit.html

OK fellas. The moment you have all been waiting for!! Just had the reman'd motor stuck back in my truck last weekend. I have to say it is fantastic to have my truck back. This motor is way quieter than my last motor before toasting that piston. I got the long block from a company in Spokane, WA called Motorworks, Inc. Very good customer service and seems like a good product so far. I also sent them my turbo and they tumbled it clean and put a seal/bearing kit into it. Here are the other new things that went in with the motor:

 

Reseal on the vacuum pump

Larry B's starter rebuild

New batteries

New water pump

New RV275 injectors

New intercooler boots

New pilot/throw out bearings

All the rest of the odds and ends (Thermostat, hoses, belt, gaskets of course)

 

I did my initial 500 miles and dumped the oil this week. Gonna 1k miles then dump again probably. One thing I found interesting is the engine builder didnt want me using any additives to break in but did say to use only Rotella oil or the warranty is void. The warranty is 1 year or 12k miles.

 

I am having an issue with the engine missing a lot after it warms up. I cant see any fuel leaks or anything but I am wondering if it isnt sucking air from some place. I went with new copper sealing washers and orings but reused the old connecting tubes because they still looked to be in good shape. I hope there isnt a problem there.

 

I had a good friend of mine do all the labor and I supplied all the parts. It was a good deal being i paid him with the old chevy caprice I have had for a while. He is a certified diesel shop and very meticulous with his work. Just have to work the bugs out now.

On 8/27/2016 at 5:08 PM, Ilikeoldfords said:

I am having an issue with the engine missing a lot after it warms up.

 

Debris in the crossover tubes or injectors. Pintle sticking in the injectors?