Hi guys, I looked through the topics on this forum and didn't find anything specific about this. I have determined that my Raptor pump functions only for the first 15 to 30 seconds after startup, then quits. I hotwired it to the battery and it works fine, so it seems to be a power interuption to the pump causing this. If this is true it doesn't seem that a relay would solve the problem, as the same power interruption would interfere with power to the relay. Could this be some sort of ECM issue, or maybe just a ground, or reflash needed? Any suggestions would be appreciated!

15 hours ago, JAG1 said:

Dave, Don't understand, are you telling me to stop hijacking the thread or something? Do I detect a note of Anger/ tired of my posts? Not like the usual Dave I know????

Hope I didn't say something to make you mad... I see you as a friend nothing else.

No anger here. Just telling you the same thing I have been told before. Take a day for yourself and forget about all the crap and clear you head if you need it. I do it on the golf course as often as I can. For me that is 4 or 5 hours that I just forget about everything but the game. Helps me clear my mind. I sometimes get so wrapped up in a job that runs my life and the break is nice.

I went back a re read the above and I guess it came across a little strong. I apologize for that. Please keep posting here or anywhere. I meant no disrespect. And by all means, be careful with the belt sander.

That's Ok when/ if we finally do meet... I'll use the sander on yer head  Just kiddin' Bud.

Did I hurt your feelings about your forgetery being so strong over the L/P power? I was hoping to get laughs on that one is all Boss.

Edited January 31, 20169 yr by JAG1

The forgetery seems to be a normal part of the aging process. I am getting used to it.

Yeah don't like when I turn around to go get what I forgot ,then can't remember what it was I was after.

On 1/29/2016 at 6:38 AM, eddielee said:

I was clear about it and it may have been the year that sent him over the edge, not sure.

Mine is a 1999, they may do a 2000, or 2001-02. Not sure, didn't ask

Just odd the last time I was there in person they told me the did do Cummins ECM for the Dodge Rams. Just odd to here a different story.

Still in all the lift pump circuit can be repaired...

Edited January 31, 20169 yr by Mopar1973Man

5 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Just odd the last time I was there in person they told me the did do Cummins ECM for the Dodge Rams. Just odd to here a different story.

Still in all the lift pump circuit can be repaired...

Are you saying repaired without finding a new ECM?

kind of like doing the voltage regulator mod?

Edited January 31, 20169 yr by JAG1

1 hour ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Just odd the last time I was there in person they told me the did do Cummins ECM for the Dodge Rams. Just odd to here a different story.

Still in all the lift pump circuit can be repaired...

I think eddielee`s  guess that they may have been referring to 95.5- 99 ecm`s is a good one . What I heard from many , about problems re-flashing them and then having problems and adding ecm programers . Although I heard its not all of them , % unknown , you just take your chances . If that's true it speaks to modualmasters knowledge and ethics .But maybe they should be informed you can re-flash a newer one to work on those years , so they don't leave some owners hanging

Just went out in the snow and started my truck this morning , and for the first time had high idle , nice . a by product of the updated files of the Smarty

What would be nice is for some really knowledgeable person to come up with a add on box that had a 2 sec LP on , 25 sec LP bump  on , and LP defeat when the truck shuts off , that could be wired into a relayed circuit and run on a new ignition on wire . For all the folks that have the ecm LP circuit fail

Problem is that it would be rather expensive building an stand alone controller that can read OBDII data for this information for tach signal.

6 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Problem is that it would be rather expensive building an stand alone controller that can read OBDII data for this information for tach signal.

Yea it would have to be someone trying to solve there own problem

Probably wrong , and just thinking  , but 2 second key on might be enabled by fuse 9 - ignition  switch on , and a timer;  25 sec starter bump by either amp drop or by physically tying into starter some way ,and timer  ; disable power to LP maybe by crank or cam sensor signal and a relay, directly tapping in leaving it still hooked to ecm - I know that's 5 volt..     But just thinking...... because I already fixed my truck - this time anyway

Probably shouldn't have said that , might have jinxed myself 

Hope the OP is having some luck with his truck

7 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Problem is that it would be rather expensive building an stand alone controller that can read OBDII data for this information for tach signal.

It would be cheaper to put a Boss fuel pump on.

Mike,

 

We could build something pretty easy to do that haha.  I have most of the code already for an arduino.

I've been pondering an Arduino controlled setup for my lift pump for some time.

Since I still have the output from the ECM I thought about doing the following:

 

Using a motor shield  and 2 pressure sensors (pre and post filter) to supply the correct fuel pressure for the different situations.

 

For the engine running I would like to have 15 psi as a baseline, and increase the pressure for the product of LoadXRPM to insure correct filling of the pump under all running conditions.

For cranking the pressurre should stay around 7 psi.

Since my motor shield can drive two motors at 20 amps, I thought about using it for the fuel heater too. (Does anybody know about the power draw and cold resistance of the heater?)

I think this would be elegant for cold starts too, just reduce the fuel flow until the heater can get nice and warm fuel to the IP at idle, this should reduce white smoke and cold knock considerably. (And could also be used for folks running vegetable oil)

If the fuel temperature is starting to get up to a point where cooling the IP is desired, the pressure should be raised to increase the amount of fuel going through the overflow valve.

 

The two pressure sensors should give a god indication of the dirt load in the fuel filter and also as a sanity check to avoid wrong fuel pressure due to a sensor malfunction.

 

The main reason for this project is that there are some good fuel pumps available on my side of the pond, but they are for much higher volumes and pressures than needed for the truck.

Naturally I could use a pressure regulator and return a lot of fuel into the tank, but that is not elegant.

 

At the moment I am collecting some sensors etc, and starting out on the programming.

If anybody here has already done or thought about that I would like to see and discuss the code, and the hardware.

 

Cheers!

 

AlpineRAM

(As also on www.dieseltruckresource.com and www.advrider.com)