I have been dumping good bit of $$$ to make this truck the best it can be.

I recently got the front end in order.. removing leveling kit, poly bushings in upper and lower control arms, new track bar, steering box and brace.. added a deep trans pan and gauge.. new injectors.. brakes and lines all the way around including the Chevy 1 ton cylinders.x

What can/should I do to my truck for performance & reliability.. besides routine/preventive maintenance? That's a given.. Most importantly for towing my camper anywhere I'd like to go (long distance.) Getting an exhaust brake is high on my priority list. 

Other things I'm thinking about are.. an oil bypass system, larger rear diff cover and traction bars.. but not sure these make sense?

The previous owner disconnected the original fuel filter assembly on the side motor and i was thinking about removing until.. I think Mike mentioned that I should hook it back up for better filtration.

Your thoughts and suggestions welcome!

 

 

 

 

 

Edited February 26, 20169 yr by dodgedieselnewbie

Sounds like you have done quite a bit to it.  You ought to take it out and enjoy it.

56 minutes ago, dodgedieselnewbie said:

The previous owner disconnected the original fuel filter assembly on the side motor and was thinking about removing until.. I think Mike mentioned that I should hook it back up for better filtration.

Yes. Keep it! Doubling up the filtration doesn't hurt one bit. 

1 hour ago, Hawkez said:

Sounds like you have done quite a bit to it.  You ought to take it out and enjoy it.

Not even the half of it... doesn't include cosmetic stuff... new bumper, grill, fogs, topper, bedslide, center console, step bars, etc, etc, etc.... oh yeah.. moon visor :-)

Believe me.. I come up with reasons to go out and take a ride.. enjoying every minute of it <---- almost kinda sickening LOL

I also enjoy making it mine, comfortable and love doing the upgrades. 

So... any advice/opinions on bypass or traction bars? 

What else for reliability? 

 

1 hour ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Yes. Keep it! Doubling up the filtration doesn't hurt one bit. 

Okay... be ready to walk me through it.. please :-)

Edited February 26, 20169 yr by dodgedieselnewbie

57 minutes ago, dodgedieselnewbie said:

Okay... be ready to walk me through it.. please :-)

Hua? Just get a big line kit for the stock to the VP44 and you are done.

http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Universal-Big-Line-Filter-to-Injection-Pump-Kit-w-p/ffip59.htm

When I installed my FASS I kept the stock filter housing plumbed in and you also keep the fuel heater. I also added the big line kit from vp to filter 

Hmmm.. i haven't really looked at the lines really closely. I'm guessing I would disconnect the 1/2" line going into the VP from the Fass and connect it to the original filter.. then... connect the kit you are recommending.. yes?

Edited February 26, 20169 yr by dodgedieselnewbie

That all there is to it...

VP44 <- Stock Fuel Filter <- FASS Fuel System <- Fuel Tank

Ya the kit comes with all the fittings needed to do it. 

If you want to extend your oil changes a bypass system is a good idea. If your sticking to regular oil changes I say spend the money elsewhere. Extra filtration is never going to hurt but there's also lots of high mileage engines out there without it. 

If you need traction bars or not I think depends a lot on your driving style, but again not going to hurt any thing to have them. 

7 hours ago, Buzzinhalfdozen said:

If you want to extend your oil changes a bypass system is a good idea. If your sticking to regular oil changes I say spend the money elsewhere. Extra filtration is never going to hurt but there's also lots of high mileage engines out there without it.

http://www.frantzfilters.com/faq/

All fluids changed? Differentials? Transfer case? Coolant? Power steering fluid? It doesn't hurt to get aftermarket diff. covers, but they are $240 a piece. Last time I changed my rear diff. fluid I drilled a hole and welded a nut on the cover, cost a couple bucks for the nut and bolt and some beers for my buddy who has a welder. Keep a Timbo Apps in your truck for safety. Heavy duty 5 ply intercooler boots if you haven't already. Check vacuum lines, the rubber elbows likes to dry rot and plastic lines are brittle. 

11 minutes ago, CTcummins24V said:

All fluids changed? Differentials? Transfer case? Coolant? Power steering fluid? It doesn't hurt to get aftermarket diff. covers, but they are $240 a piece. Last time I changed my rear diff. fluid I drilled a hole and welded a nut on the cover, cost a couple bucks for the nut and bolt and some beers for my buddy who has a welder. Keep a Timbo Apps in your truck for safety. Heavy duty 5 ply intercooler boots if you haven't already. Check vacuum lines, the rubber elbows likes to dry rot and plastic lines are brittle. 

Yes.. fluids are done. I would probably only do the rear diff. I just picked up some new Peak intercooler boots (not sure if 5 ply) for what I thought was a good buy ($100) I do believe I need some new vacuum line parts.. when I was doing the injectors I rubbed my hand against the junction hanging to the back right and had black dust on my hand. Thanks!

 

6 hours ago, dodgedieselnewbie said:

Yes.. fluids are done. I would probably only do the rear diff. I just picked up some new Peak intercooler boots (not sure if 5 ply) for what I thought was a good buy ($100) I do believe I need some new vacuum line parts.. when I was doing the injectors I rubbed my hand against the junction hanging to the back right and had black dust on my hand. Thanks!

 

Where did you get those for $100? The link I saw for them the other day listed them for $200 or so.

Sorry if that was misleading.. I got them from a CF member who didn't use em... 

Edited February 26, 20169 yr by dodgedieselnewbie

i think I saw that thread. Good deal my man.

I got the driver's side done today.. will do other side tomorrow. They went on fairly easily with the supplied lube. Touched up the pipe with paint too. I like em..

Can someone tell me what some of the signs would be for vacuum leaks? Going to inspect all the lines tomorrow...

 

Edited March 1, 20169 yr by dodgedieselnewbie

On gassers, I spray carb cleaner on the lines and listen for an rpm change.  I wonder if that would work?

You need to redo that lower clamp. Either the steel tube is shoved too deep or you got the clamp too high. 

I normally don't use any lubes on the boots this way they stick to the ends and don't blow off. I typically use a orange degreaser from Home Depot that makes the boot very slick for short time once it dres it sticks in place and a PITA to remove. 

2 minutes ago, CSM said:

On gassers, I spray carb cleaner on the lines and listen for an rpm change.  I wonder if that would work?

No. Because the carb spray will be just sucked into the crankcase to dilute the oil... Bad idea.

Thanks Mike. I wasn't sure where it exhausted.

Just for learning value. Most times people with excessive blow by are informed to check vacuum lines first thing. Because a disconnected vacuum line can imitate bad rings... Being the vacuum pump exhausts into the crankcase and then vents out the crankcase vent.