Hello every one.

I'm new to this sit and have a 2000 quad cab 2500 4x4 8ft bed, 24v cummins whit automatic transmission I thing it's 4 shifter (sorry i'm new whit this kind of transmission)** & all stock except lift pump which is last week went out and I change it to DRRP02 FASS 110 GPH,other than that untouched truck, anyway, I've to get the RPM over 2k or 22k till shift to the upper and only on the highway goes to 4th and O/D otherwise just only 2 shift. is it normal? I fell engine is under the presser and need the another gear or shift so. In the city with 1500 or 1800 RPM still stays on 2nd shift at 40 to 45 MPH I think is something wrong with it by the way is there any way we can add the one more shift to transmission or not? is any 5 shifter or more is available in the market so we can replace it with this 4 shifter? how much is cost? I knew it maybe the same topic from the other members but I really need your expertise HELP and I need to know what to do as much as I can by myself cause I'm on the very tight budget.

Appreciate for your help.

PS** I'm a semi tractor trailer driver and use to change gears (18-15-13 speed / straghit 10 or supper 10 speed gear box) even my 2000 Honda Accord is 5 speed manual and auto trans is little bit strange for me sorry I don't want to be selfish just want you know my fillings abut the situation.)                   

Edited March 15, 20169 yr by Sam53

glad everything is working good now!

19 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

glad everything is working good now!

Thanks for your Help abut TV cable.

Appreciate 

Good to hear man!

5 hours ago, Sam53 said:

1: tire size make a big difference.

Like JAG1 found out as well even going from 265/75 R16 to 235/85 R16 there is another change with acceleration factor more so. But just getting to 31" tire helps a bunch.

 

5 hours ago, Sam53 said:

2: TV cable Adjustment is the IMPORTANT part.

Like as my transmission is breaking in for the 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 it settling down down and needs to have a minor adjustment. I might add just a bit of slack to mine.

 

5 hours ago, Sam53 said:

Appreciate & I'm so happy of signing with this website and LOVE it.

I'm glad the family here could resolve your issue.

21 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Like JAG1 found out as well even going from 265/75 R16 to 235/85 R16 there is another change with acceleration factor more so. But just getting to 31" tire helps a bunch.

 

Like as my transmission is breaking in for the 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 it settling down down and needs to have a minor adjustment. I might add just a bit of slack to mine.

 

I'm glad the family here could resolve your issue.

If family Accept me I love to be a part of em and thanks all of you guys. 

TO ALL PEOPLE whom new to Auto transmission DO NOT FORGET to CHECK your fluid frequently and be sure your reading is right not like me!!! today I was checking it, friend of mined came and ask me what are you doing? told him " checking my trany fluid " he Laughed at me and said you have to wait till warmed up not now. what did I said in the beginning this is new for me and in my entire life I've manual shift. any way we check it together and find out I have very low trans fluid and I'm lucky not Burning the poor transmission. OOOOPPPSSS

so be care full what you reading and don't be foolish like me.

someone tell me that's enough body go get sleep.

Good night every one.       

Edited March 26, 20169 yr by Sam53

Automatic transmissions should be warmed up and checked on level ground while idling in neutral. Stock 47RE transmissions will only pump while in neutral. While like my modified 46RE will pump in park or neutral now. Like during my time reloading I was not wanting to overfill being the transmission is cold but also pouring fluid down the tube make the dip stick show weird readings too so you must have patience while filling a transmission and check after a period of time. Engine and transmission heat help in getting the dipstick tube cleared faster.

5 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Automatic transmissions should be warmed up and checked on level ground while idling in neutral. Stock 47RE transmissions will only pump while in neutral. While like my modified 46RE will pump in park or neutral now. Like during my time reloading I was not wanting to overfill being the transmission is cold but also pouring fluid down the tube make the dip stick show weird readings too so you must have patience while filling a transmission and check after a period of time. Engine and transmission heat help in getting the dipstick tube cleared faster.

Thanks Mopar1973man. that's exactly what we did but you mentioned the good point we have trany @ park, now I have to do it again with trany on N. by the way is it make any different if I install a deep pan? I would be appreciate if let me know cause I'm going to flush trany & change the filter for it I was thinking while pan is out change it to deep one what do you think?       

Pan isn't going to change the method of checking the fluid. Just it will hold more fluid in the pan. So you have to add more to get to the full mark.

3 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Pan isn't going to change the method of checking the fluid. Just it will hold more fluid in the pan. So you have to add more to get to the full mark.

Thanks but I wasn't mean changing the method just want to know( is it help the transmission? ) that was my question. 

Deeper pan is just going to buy a little more time before it all heats up. Once all the ATF is heat up it will take longer to cool down more fluid and more heat. Is there a gain? In my mind not really. I think you gain more on a better quality cooler than stock.

5 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Deeper pan is just going to buy a little more time before it all heats up. Once all the ATF is heat up it will take longer to cool down more fluid and more heat. Is there a gain? In my mind not really. I think you gain more on a better quality cooler than stock.

What is the better quality cooler than stock? how much it cost? cause I'm already flush trany, got old filter out and ready to install the new filter & pan on. I would like to know before refill the fluid.I can hold on to it.would you please let me know ASAP. appreciate for the help & info.     

I'm glad you got it sorted out! Yes, the TV cable plays a HUGE role in the way the transmission functions. I'm sorry I wasn't much help on this one as I've been absolutely buried in the shop between customer work and a couple of my own projects...

You might have to call Dynamic and ask him what he has for suggestions. What I'm getting at is you could enlarge the header tanks on the stock radiator but still keep the stock size gain nothing. But now add another row of cores and change the game of cooling. So I would talk to Dynamic on coolers because there is a point of over cooling.

On March 26, 2016 at 5:49 PM, Sam53 said:

Thanks but I wasn't mean changing the method just want to know( is it help the transmission? ) that was my question. 

Personally if you are worried about transmission overheating I would look into installing a trans temp gauge and go from there

 

Depending on your driving habits and towing situation the factory cooler usualy performs well

Thank You so much my Dear friend for responding on my need.

I need to get Dynamic,s phone number may be he send me his number via PM. I would be glad to speak with him.

what is the small tank for between the line and cooler under the turbo on passenger side?

Yes I'm so worried for trany she,s already leaking fluid from everywhere you name it and I'm trying to do as much as I can to save it until get it fix or rebuild. I'm so so sorry to saying that, I'm so tight on budget can't afford anything more than fully flushed it I mean even undoing the line as much as I can and drain them with air hoes even cooler. truly I'm scared puling anything with it.

is anyone can tell me how can I adjust the band and which kind of tools I need?

Appreciate for all your help and supporting me.     

The canister on the side of the block is a heat exchanger, it helps warm up the trans fluid when cold and cool off the trans fluid when hot.  

 

 

Where is it leaking from?  The lines?

 

line doesn't leak but all gasket has leak I mean, between trany & transfer case / transfer to front & back axle /  

two section of transfer / trany & engine connection / trany & over drive and so on. when I'm going under the truck, I can see red fluid drops on all over this places. also when I park under the truck gets wet.

Appreciate for respond & info.     

Got ya,

 

Can you take a picture?   Both the Transfer case and Tranny use AFT+4 so either could be leaking.  transfer case R&R is pretty cheap ~$150 and easy to do.  I just did mine and I wrote an article on it.

 

 

IF it is the output seal on the trans you will need to drop the trans case then replace the seal.  I honestly don't remember if you can replace the output seal on the trans wihtout pulling the OD housing.  I think you could.....

Edited March 29, 20169 yr by Me78569

Yes you can replace it. Just like Nick said just pull the transfer case then pull the seal and drive a new one in. Also there is no need for the gasket in between the transfer case and the transmission there is a drain hole in the tail of the transmission.

6 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Yes you can replace it. Just like Nick said just pull the transfer case then pull the seal and drive a new one in. Also there is no need for the gasket in between the transfer case and the transmission there is a drain hole in the tail of the transmission.

Thanks. where exactly is that drain hole?