Have Isspro EV gauges and wondering where the best place to install pyrometer amplifier? Would like to use someone else's experience if possible. Thank you 

5 minutes ago, leathermaneod said:

Also wonder if I can reuse the probe or not.

 

Yes.

 

5 minutes ago, leathermaneod said:

I wonder how much hotter the back three are getting

 

Typically in the past it was always said the 4,5,6 port is hotter. Consider how many times you here of someone burning #6 piston.

Ok, well I guess I should move it then....guess I'll find out what the difference is. What do I need to know about drilling and tapping an exhaust manifold? 

Need to find out what tap you need. 1/8" NPT is typical but check what fitting your using. Then get the proper drill for that tap. You want to drill on top of the high part of the runner. The low area is a solid divider do not drill there. A lot of people have all kinds of tricks for getting drill crumbs out of the manifold. Using magnets, q-tips, leave the engine running while drilling, shop vacuum while drilling. As for tapping just tap deep enough for the fitting to bite. Like you seen mine is not sunk in the manifold you need to consider the tip and getting it roughly in the center of the manifold port.

 

Thank you! I believe I have a 1/8 because that's what autometers instructions say. I also believe the probe comes out of the fitting, does that sound right? How is the best way to remove that fitting from the manifold? Impact gun? Or just soak with PB blaster and then use a wrench?

Soak it with PB blaster and either use a 3/8" impact or shock the wrench with a hammer. When re-installing put a dab of anti-seize on the threads make life better if you have to remove the probe later.

I honestly don't think your numbers are that far off. Your only really off in the high idle department but that's understandable given your probe location and how 3cyl high idle works. I see 350-450 for high idle, obviously without exhaust brake.

 

Your driving numbers match mine pretty close as well but you have 5 speed so I'd imagine keeping your numbers lower is easier then in my auto. 

 

If it were me I'd just leave it and plan on replacing it whenever I added a 3 piece manifold. I'd be too worried about the plug coming loose or having shavings go flying into my turbo.  

What do you have for injectors though? I'm just really concerned about how hot those rear cylinders are actually getting. Last think I wanna do is melt one...

 

if if I do it I'm thinking a magnet should work fine to get the shavings out...

2 hours ago, leathermaneod said:

Yes that's what I was thinking but idk which three fire either haha. Well that's two people now that told me they would leave it so maybe I should listen lol. I guess if you guys wouldn't worry about it I shouldn't either. I was just concerened about how much hotter those rear cylinders might be getting....

 

I dont think anyone has that information as it would require data from both ports using simultaneous gauge readings.

But for their differences in temperatures..... I think they're all running very similar EGT's but because 5/6 (especially 6) have slightly choked intake ports, and by virtue of the cooling system design limiting flow across the back portion of the block, they will run a tad hotter than the forward cylinders.

 

Taking all that into consideration, the breaking point temperature window for cylinder failure is very small so making sure you're watching what those hotter cylinders are doing is most important.  As Moparman pointed out, there's a reason you read threads about the number 6 cylinder over that of other cylinders.

Edited April 11, 20169 yr by KATOOM

Katoom I'm confused. You are in favor of moving it or not? Lol

Oh I definitely think you need to be watching the back cylinders instead of the front.  But.....that said, if you were so inclined you could be ultra cool and drill the other side and use one of the gauges. Dual EGT gauge

Totally awesome as that would be, I think it's a little unnecessary for me at this point. I'll just move it as soon as I get a chance. I just looked at my probe and it is kind of like a compressions style fitting. You can probably tell that by the pics I posted. Anyway so now I just have to figure out what size bit and tap to buy. Does anyone have any measurements for placement of the hole? I think I've seen a diagram once but I'm not sure where and I remeber thinking that I wasn't sure if it was correct either 

Yes, they use a compression fitting to lock a collar over the thermocouple.

If your fitting looks about the same size as the one Moparman pictured then its 1/8".  But if it looks larger then its 1/4".  Thats your only two options.....  But if you're unclear which one it is then simply go pick up both tap sizes and you'll easily be able to tell as they're clearly different in size.

Will do thanks for the tip! Any measurements for the exact spot to drill?

Edited April 11, 20169 yr by leathermaneod

I'm on stock injectors still. Correct me if I'm wrong but unless you were flogging around constantly up steep grades or towing heavy, wouldn't it be pretty hard to cause damage? We're all smart enough around here to know that if you do certain things it's going to have repercussions.

 

I'm not saying your wrong for wanting to move it, just wondering if it's really worth the hassle if you don't tow heavy or don't drive like a jackass all the time ya know?!

 

Obviusly you should do what you thinks best for your truck though! 

 

Heres what I used for mine,  Geno's instructions. What you're looking for is on page 2.

 

1 hour ago, notlimah said:

Correct me if I'm wrong but unless you were flogging around constantly up steep grades or towing heavy, wouldn't it be pretty hard to cause damage?

 

I won't say that. Back when I barely installed my gauges completely stock powered no module or injectors yet. I was hired to tow a trailer loaded with a Chevy pickup to Boise for a friend. Just with cruise set at 65 MPH climbing 7% grade I was able to easily push 1,400*F without even thinking. At the time I was running DiPricol's gauges and they where less than 90 days old.  So as for EGT's stock doesn't mean its safe.

3 hours ago, notlimah said:

I'm on stock injectors still. Correct me if I'm wrong but unless you were flogging around constantly up steep grades or towing heavy, wouldn't it be pretty hard to cause damage? We're all smart enough around here to know that if you do certain things it's going to have repercussions.

 

I'm not saying your wrong for wanting to move it, just wondering if it's really worth the hassle if you don't tow heavy or don't drive like a jackass all the time ya know?!

 

Obviusly you should do what you thinks best for your truck though! 

 

Heres what I used for mine,  Geno's instructions. What you're looking for is on page 2.

 

Thanks for those instructions! 

When you guys drilled the hole, did you start with the full size bit or do you work your way up from smaller?

1 hour ago, leathermaneod said:

Thanks for those instructions! 

When you guys drilled the hole, did you start with the full size bit or do you work your way up from smaller?

I drill a small pilot hole then the full sized bit. 

3 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

I won't say that. Back when I barely installed my gauges completely stock powered no module or injectors yet. I was hired to tow a trailer loaded with a Chevy pickup to Boise for a friend. Just with cruise set at 65 MPH climbing 7% grade I was able to easily push 1,400*F without even thinking. At the time I was running DiPricol's gauges and they where less than 90 days old.  So as for EGT's stock doesn't mean its safe.

 

That to me would be categorized as towing heavy. I definitely wasn't trying to imply that a stock outfitted truck doesn't have the capability to cause damage in this regard. All I was trying to get at was if @leathermaneod wants to hold off on this fix he probably would be safe in doing so if he avoided things like you mentioned Mike. It's not like he doesn't have a gauge at all, it'll just be reading slightly lower. Honestly his numbers while driving are really similar to what mine are so it seems like it's fairly close except at idle.

 

1 hour ago, leathermaneod said:

Thanks for those instructions! 

When you guys drilled the hole, did you start with the full size bit or do you work your way up from smaller?

 

I just drilled the full size bit. I took my time and would drill in a little then clean up the hole, then drill again until I was through. I wanted to use the full size just to avoid having smaller shavings. I did however have to use a slight bigger drill bit because when trying to tap the hole it was requiring way to much effort. I'd have to double check the drill bit sizes I used though. Honestly I don't think there's any wrong way to do this, just take your time and make sure you get all the shavings out.

I drilled mine with the proper size bit only. I took a small rag and stuffed it in the manifold and used a shop vac to suck out the shavings after drilling. There was really not much that fell thru the hole. If I missed any thing it was so small it passed thru the turbo. It is just not that difficult to do.

 

On another note just add 50* to what you are seeing and you should be fine. I have only seen 1300 or so under 2 circumstances. The first was my first towing trip after the new clutch and comp addition. i pulled several hills at 6 or 7% grade but the longest was maybe a third of mile. Had the comp on 2X3 pretty much full throttle GCVW at about 23k and 1250 to 1300 was the max I saw. I am sure a longer grade would have been different and I would need to back out Maybe next time.

 

The other is sticking my foot in it empty on 5x5. The comp fuels so hard compared to the Banks tuner I had that I have to be careful. Not so much for EGT's as for the redline. I am not sure  when it defuels but I have caught my self at redline many times. Just does not want to stop accelerating. Around 1200 to 1250 is the most I have seen in this case.

 

I guess it is a personal decision for you and I hope I have not muddied the water to bad. re locating the probe is not difficult unless the fitting breaks off. Then it will be expensive. If you have other needs for you truck I would not place this one in front of others you may need more. Just keep watching the gauge and see if you driving style is pushing the temps to the high side regularly then you might have to re prioritize things.

Edited April 11, 20169 yr by dripley

Here is a installer that screwed up the pyrometer probe install. As you'll see they drilled in the divider of the manifold.