So I've started to notice that in the morning my truck has hard a little harder time starting. By harder time I mean, just cranks a little longer then it typically would. We haven't had to cold of mornings (high 30's low 40's) but it used to be 1 second or less and it'd fire up. This morning it was 3-4 seconds and then she fired up. I did just change some things with the Smarty so the battery was on for a little longer then normal before actually cranking but this isn't the first time it's happened. My driveway is at an incline so engine bay is slightly higher then the tank. So I'm wondering...

 

Could it be batteries? Before starts my needle is juuuuust above the lowest marker on the battery gauge

Intake heater no working properly? I have noticed more white smoke then usual on cold start ups

Fuel leak? Haven't seen any spots in the driveway, and the system definitely primes once the key gets to 'ON' typically see 5-10psi needle jump

 

So what do ya guys got?!

 

 

" Also, for those who haven't had to do this, prepare to get your Ethan Hunt on!" 

 

Haha That's the truth! I just replaced the banjo washers on a friends truck a week ago. Kinda have to get your Braille on too. 

Edited April 7, 20169 yr by BBHD

Yea that's for sure! The only way I could even get a wrench on it was from the left side!

I have this same issue. I don't feel any wetness at back of the head and i tried to get a wrench on it one day then i gave up. I'll try again.. What size wrech do i need do u remember?

 

I will try that first then i'll clean my batter posts again. I have cleaned them in the past and it seems like it started better with no stumble. 

I still think it's air leak or something because if i go out on a cold morning and start the truck then shut it off right away, come back 2 hrs later and try n start and it fires right up no hickup or stumble.

It's a 17mm. I was literally laying on top of the engine and slid the wrench through the left side while my right arm was warpped around to act as support. Mine turned maybe 1/32nd of a turn but that could be enough to leak. Also follow that same piping down to where it forms a T and check for leaks there. 

 

The he reaon your method is working is because unless it's a really bad air leak, 2 hours isn't enough time for the fuel system to loose it's prime. 

 

Hope you get it solved! 

When I had the same issue I replaced the sealing washers. The rubber on them gets hard and does not seal as well. Mine looked and felt more like washer than a washer with rubber on it. No more than they cost replacing them will last a lot longer, plus the bolt is hollow and can snap off if you tighten it to much. so be careful.

Yea I put the least amount of pressure on it as I could, believe me! That little bit of tightening that it did was under fairly little pressure. If I have the same issue come up I'll be looking at replacing the sealing washers for sure.

notlimah, in the picture of your battery with the broken lug, where does the small red wire go? The one that's molded on beside the large cable....just curious

I'm pretty sure it doesn't go to anything! Lol

Weird. I hope the other end is well insulated! 

On ‎4‎/‎1‎/‎2016 at 6:30 PM, IBMobile said:

with that terminal clamp cracked your basically running on battery.  Think of it this way, if the nut  holding the cable to the starter motor was loose how well do you think the starter motor would work.  You can buy battery cable ends at any auto supply store for an interim fix until you get that cable replaced.  Order a new one or find a battery supply house that also makes custom cables or make them your self.  

http://custombatterycables.com/application/dodge_ram.htm

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TlEUqZSyo4I

I see that the battery was manufactured in12/2012 so it's 3 years and 3 mo. old. The installation date tag was never punched out but batteries are usually installed within a couple of months of being produced.

 

Do you know if custombatterycables.com is still open? I tried calling them and no answer and I sent an email with no reply either.

You could always make your own cables and use the ordnance terminals. That way you can replace only what you need. Probably cheaper than custom battery cables too...

I just called the  785-4cables, 785-422-2537,  recording came on saying "the Jack customer you have called is unavailable to take your call.  Please a message after the tone".   So your guess is as good as mine.

 

Can you have them made locally?  In my area there are two battery shops that will make starter, ground or RV cable to specifications. 

Edited April 13, 20169 yr by IBMobile

I suppose I could make them myself but I'd rather someone else do it so it's done right. Last thing I want is to fry everything because I missed some minor step trying to get everything put together correctly.

 

I'll have to look for some place locally to see if they offer that kind of service. Maybe I'll call and leave a message and see if I get a call back.

I had to replace the passenger negative cable. I used one of the military style connectors. I cut the damage terminal off and skinned a 1/2" or more of the insulation to be sure the wire was not  corroded and soldered a new terminal on. It is quite easy to do.

So I talked with the guy from custom battery cables. I ended up sending him a message on their facebook page and he replied back with this number 602-329-8363.

 

Anyways, I'm going to go ahead and pull the trigger on new battery cables. Figure if I'm going to replace one I might as well replace them all so I can just be done with it.

Sounds awesome! I'd definitely be interested in seeing some pics when you get them!

Yea will do. One things for sure, they're not cheap!

 

He mentioned that they're a couple weeks behind schedule due to a large order they received from a local tractor company they do business with so that might have been why it was hard to get ahold of him earlier.

 

Either way it'll be nice to have some well made cables that I should never have to worry about again!

I had a very similar problem to the OP. Turned out that the fuel heater element o-ring had gone bad and started leaking there and caused air to leak in there. The o-ring is easy to replace, but I wanted any excuse to get rid of that filter housing so I got the fuel filter kit from Geno's Garage that accepts the screw-on filters.

That sounds like a good alternative, do you have a link to what you got? Currently my stock fuel filter is just taking up space.

On 4/15/2016 at 2:11 PM, notlimah said:

Yea will do. One things for sure, they're not cheap!

 

He mentioned that they're a couple weeks behind schedule due to a large order they received from a local tractor company they do business with so that might have been why it was hard to get ahold of him earlier.

 

Either way it'll be nice to have some well made cables that I should never have to worry about again!

thats not a bad deal from custom cables, I replaced all my cables, made them myself using 2/0 cable, I was impressed with the military clamps, makes maintenance easy. I bought everything at the local napa, including lugs, soldier and heavy duty color coded heat shrink. good quality but had over $200.00 invested in parts, not including a days work.