Some May recall my previous problem with my Fuel pressure. Initially the thought was air in the lines. But now I think it's something to do with the air dog pump block area itself. It still could be a house in this area,i dunno. What I do know, is that the problem is stemming from this area.

 

Last night after work, I killed the batteries trying to get the truck to crank over. Luckily I had a guy to jump me.

 

On the first startup of the day, it cranks over no problem. Sits afterwards, then it becomes a problem. This has happened a few nights in a row now. But not bad enough like Last night.

 

I'll bump the starter to get the pump to cycle, and I can distinctly hear a whirring noise like it's not primed. But maybe after a few bumps it'll prime and the whir noise goes away, the pump changes in sound and Fuel pressure goes back up.

 

Mind you I get about 17psi, when it's not sounding primed. But when it gets primed, 20 to 22psi. I'm at a loss here, and tried calling air dog But they didn't answer. Probably called too late...

 

Any idea what it is? Could the fittings to the pump block be bad? If it happens again tonight, I'll record video of it to try and get it.

I am having the same problem with my Fass, changed Fass filters to Napa and dang thing refuses to hold prime

If you're loosing prime still. Park nose down overnight. If the truck fires up right away as if it didn't loose prime, the leak is 99% coming from the return side of the fuel system, so check all appropriate fittings for tightness, or maybe even dissemble and reapply sealant to double check. 

 

If the prime still persists when pointed nose down then the whole system is suspect. I would do the same thing as previously stated. More then likely somethings wiggled loose or thread sealant has worn away and needs to be reapplied. 

 

I'd much rather go through my entire system and recheck/lube everything to double check its integrity before dumping money into things I didn't really need too.

The problem is isolated to the suction line of the fuel system. I greased the fittings on the suction side and there was a difference in fuel pressure.

 

I guess I'm just gonna have to crawl under the truck and pull the fitting to the bulkhead and see if it's the right size. 

So the quick connect failed. Yes, your going to have to replace those two fittings.

Edited June 11, 20168 yr by Mopar1973Man

Wow... when the guy at the shop offered to press the fittings I should have said yes! Didn't think I could get the fittings on if he did though. Well a glutton for punishment I am. Pushing the line on was a pain. I didn't even get it fully seated. It went over both barbs, is it going to be an issue?

 

Bump cycled the truck to prime the system. Changed in tone and sounds better. Cranked right over. Going to let it sit for a couple days and see if my problem continues.

 

Due to the fact I have a modified fuel basket, it uses oem connection on the return line. How am I going to be able to convert this over to jic fittings? Will I just have to order the filler neck adaptor?

Are you reffering to putting the lines on the top of the fuel module while the tank is on the truck? If so then yea, its a PITA! But I'd do everything I could to get those lines fully seated on the barbs, you don't want to chance a line coming off because it wasn't pushed all the way to the back of the fitting.

 

As far as return line, I assume you're talking about the return line from your lift pump correct? If so, you have two options, 1. is to modify your fuel module again and add a return fitting/hose into the top of the module just like your supply line. Or 2. splice into the filler neck like you mentioned. Seems to me the filler neck would be easiest for you at this point so you can avoid fooling with the fuel module, unless you need to drop the tank to get those lines on further, then maybe it's something you'd want to consider.

Put the fitting on the shop floor and using your body weight to push the hose over the push lock fitting. I normally remove the full length of line to push in the push lock fittings. Impossible to do on the vehicle.

I put petroleum jelly (Vaseline) on the fitting and in the hose before assembly. 

On ‎5‎/‎19‎/‎2016 at 5:20 PM, Mopar1973Man said:

Quick connectors... Like I said grease the male fitting with thick axle grease if the problem goes away the connectors need replacing. It's a known issue. Talk to Eric at Vulcan Performance he'll tell you about the suction line issues with quick connects.

Eric at vulcan told me to get rid of those quick connect fittings because they are a problem. As a result he sold me all the right fittings to go with regular barbed fittings and rubber hose and stainless clamps.

7 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Put the fitting on the shop floor and using your body weight to push the hose over the push lock fitting. I normally remove the full length of line to push in the push lock fittings. Impossible to do on the vehicle.

 

Not quite impossible because I made the mistake of not putting the hose on prior to installing the tank and had to do it that way and it's not easy, but not impossible 

Well I don't think it solved my problem. Going to do a full line conversion and see what that does for me. 

 

Killed my batteries last night trying to get the truck started. Thankfully had a coworker for a jump. The pump still sounds the same even after swapping out the line. 

 

Just bought two new batteries today from Napa. A cell was dead in each battery and electrolyte fluid was brown. The batteries would discharge and charge very quickly.  Cranking the truck 3, 4 times would bring it down to 50% charge. 

 

The guy load tested the batteries at the store and told me they checked out though. I gravity tested them at home last night after charging and that's how I knew what condition they were in. 

 

In wondering if my fuel problem is coming from my injection pump? I had to Crack the injection lines just to get the truck to crank this morning. 

If you got to crack an injector line yet you still chasing a air leak issue. You might have to prime every thing up and pressureize the fuel tank with compressed air and see if anything leaks.

Anyone know size fittings I need? Need sizes for supply and return lines.

 

How do I pressurize with air?

Edited June 15, 20168 yr by hex0rz

I'd call Eric at Vulcan and tell him your system setup and that you wanna replace all your fittings and he'll get you what you need. 

 

To pressurize your system, use an air hose, put a rag over the gas fill tube and put a SMALL amount of air into the tank.

Eric had what I needed and paid him ten dollars a few years ago. I've been to his place several times and always enjoyed what he had to say and what he's done for me.

I talked to him and he wanted me to do the bucket test to see if it was the suction line. 

 

Even though Eric may be cheaper than the local shop, I'm trying to fix this asap. Maybe I can pick his brain about the parts. 

 

If I pressurize the tank how is it going to hold long enough to check things?

The bucket test from how I understand it will only determine if your leak is in the fuel module in tank (if still applicable) or in the lines leading to the vp. I could be wrong here though.

 

Pressurizing the system is probably a two person job. While air is being pumped through the system someone else should be checking for leaks.

Yes its a two person job.

Dunno if this changes anything, but this is what's going on still. 

 

 

I had your very same problems once and it turned out to be that I did not torque the factory fuel filter down to 25 foot pounds as required. Plus if you use the square center hole instead of the big socket, it takes, you can cause the filter cap to crack and not even be able to see the crack.

 

He he I was so afraid I would crack that plastic cap that I made it only a little snug. Soon as I got the big socket with a 10 inch extension I was able to get it to 25 ft. pounds as required and it stopped my fuel from draining back to the ( tank drain back problem)

 

Eric showed me how to heat the ends of the hose and then they slip right on the barbs.

Eric is a real hoser and love the guy.