Let me start off by saying that I am in no way affiliated with Quadzilla or Diesel Auto Power. I was simply asked to test the new updates because I have big injectors, I'm familiar with the Quad, and I know the person doing all of the tuning. This person wishes to remain anonymous, so it will stay that way.

On to the good stuff!!!

So what is V2? Basically it's a way to gain more control over the tuning parameters, with an emphasis on CLEAN POWER. I've got big injectors, and I've driven my own truck enough that I can drive it virtually smoke free, but I have to be very careful with the right petal (even when set to stock)

Here are the custom tuning parameters:

Alright, let's start with the power levels: 
0=stock
1=Power Percent (Explained later)
2=Fuel mileage (Same as the old number 1)
3=can-bus only (Same as old number 2)
4=can-bus + wiretap (same as old number 3)
and so on to the maximum level set is reached.

So, as you can see the first 8 parameters (through "TPS CAN Minimum") are the same as they've always been. They will function just like they used to.

The next two have to do with wiretap fueling. The "Boost Pump Scaling" gives the %specified of called for wiretap fueling if the boost is below the "boost pump low limit"
As an example:(Let's say it's set on level 10) In the pictures you can see I have the scaling set to 0% until 15psi. This means I'll get zero wiretap fueling until I hit 15psi of boost. If it was set at 50% I would get 600us of wiretap before 15psi. 
This greatly reduces the amount of smoke output without reducing your peak power.

Next we have Power Percent. This is the "new" level one! Here we have the percentage of stock power called for at all times. This is perfect to use for emissions testing, letting the wife/kids drive etc. This is also another way to reduce smoke if you're wanting to be really clean. 

Next is boost scaling. This is the same as it used to be. Just a smoothing feature.

Next we have PSI% listed 0-17 in increments of 1. This feature allows you to set the amount of stock power based on boost. It allows you to ramp up the power from 0-17psi, effectively reducing smoke and making the truck more driveable.

 

Now for my experience with testing.

 

Level 1: With my truck stock, I can floor it at any time and create quite a cloud of smoke. You'd swear I have a tuner cranked, but it's not. With my truck set to 70%, I can floor it while doing 55mph in 6th and get as big of a puff as a stock 24V. Meanwhile it'll pull about 34psi @ 2000rpm and 40psi by 2500rpm.  It does make the truck a little doggy, but I could adjust the percentage up as I saw fit and still keep smoke to a minimum. This would be perfect if someone were to borrow my truck (never going to happen but you get the point) They could try to hotrod it as much as they want but won't be able to. I do think this would make emissions a breeze to pass, and it could be used as a safety device to keep the truck from being stolen. Essentially you can set it to 1% and the truck would only idle.

 

Now for the PSI%: With the power level turned up around 1500rpm I can stab the throttle (0psi of boost) and get nothing more than a slight haze until the boost picks up and the quad starts fueling hard. Spool is still excellent under these conditions, I just need to work on my top-end fuel command to reduce the smoke up there. This has made the biggest difference in CLEAN power. The quad is essentially rolling into the throttle for you as the boost comes up so you don't cloud the highway when you get on it. 

Now the "Boost pump scaling" and "boost pump low limit": The wiretap fueling is essentially it's "own" programmer. It doesn't follow the rules of the can-bus fueling. This was taking effect in my description above because it doesn't wiretap fuel for me until 15psi of boost. Thus why it's only a haze until 15psi.

 

Now, what I'm not quite happy with yet. Off idle, if I stab the throttle on level 1 I get a puff of smoke. I am told this is because of where the quad takes over and starts controlling things. It's being worked on and should be fixed soon. Other than that I'm very happy! I do have only 20 miles or so of testing, but this does look very promising. I'll be putting 50 miles on in the morning and 50 miles in the afternoon, so I'll have more info then.

Any questions post em up and I'll do my best to answer them. The future of clean power for 24V's looks promising  

Edited February 13, 20178 yr by Me78569
Changed the title for SEO reasons

So I've been paying a little more attention to timing lately and noticed something a little odd and wanted your thoughts.

 

Right now cruise timing is set to .1 and was settling around 17 while cruising when I first started testing this, but here lately it's been dropping around 14-15 for almost no reason.  Any thoughts?

 

That's a bug that I know of @Me78569 says there is a bug about what data is displayed while in cruise control state for fly by wire systems. So to see actual timing you have to lightly place your foot on the throttle and put 1-2% worth of throttle sense on the Quad and it will now show the proper timing. 

Cruise timing now tries to get your desired timing at 2400 rpm.   This way you can set your timing at the fastest you want to drive,then have it automatically come down as revs drop.  

 

your rpms are at the lower end of the cruise timing range.   If you want 17* at 1600 rpm, I would put your cruise timing setting to ~2- 2.5* 

Currently running 6* cruise timing which is 20* total at 55 MPH and just about 21* at 65 MPH. Trying a @Me78569 idea... 

8 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

Cruise timing now tries to get your desired timing at 2400 rpm.   This way you can set your timing at the fastest you want to drive,then have it automatically come down as revs drop.  

 

your rpms are at the lower end of the cruise timing range.   If you want 17* at 1600 rpm, I would put your cruise timing setting to ~2- 2.5* 

Will do.

So no more starting at 17*?

 

I finally updated the flash on the Quadzilla. I figure tonight while I was adjusting headlight again I would play with the defuel features. The boost defuel...  I set it for 30 PSI which I know I can hammer past without a doubt. Well, what happens is I can build boost so fast that it still tips off my gauge light at 38 PSI but quickly reels back the power as it falls on its face attempting to hold 30 but keeps pushing past it slightly. With the +2 lead on the Quadzilla it should be -2 on my gauge it's not though...

 

I wanted to test the logging feature tonight too but forget to hit EXPORT before shutting down.  Try again another day...

Edited February 20, 20178 yr by Mopar1973Man

3 hours ago, Carbur8tr said:

Will do.

So no more starting at 17*?

 

Cruise timing will start at 17* at 2400 rpm.  

 

This is the only way to ramp down timing as revs fall.  so you want to set your cruise timing to be whatever you would want at 80 mph.  If you want cruise at 65 to be 17* then you would want to set cruise timing at 80 to be ~18-19*   the way it was working was only allowing you to set a timing value for 1 situtation.  This way you can set timing as the fastest you will travel and timing will fall as speed falls.  at 65 mph you need less timing than at 80 mph.  The hope is by keeping it linear for cruise you can keep mpg timing in the right spot across a wider range of speeds.

 

@Mopar1973Man spiking beyond the limit will happen, but it will reel back quickly and try to settle.  

Ok... I thought it was rather weird to see the heavy spike. 

Yea, it's very hard to try and guess that it will overshoot with so many different fueling mods out there.   I will start ramping down boost 2 psi before hte limit is reached, then it will backdown quickly until boost falls and hold that backdown until the low limit is reached in which case it will start to add uel back again but at %25 of the rate it pulls it.

~Forgive me if this has already been covered~

 

Couple questions about the custom tuning parameters..

 

1- Cruise timing Boost PSI Limit.     What should it be at? I put mine @ 40. I have not seen that parameter in the tunes posted

 

2- Cruise timing Adv.    Since it won't accept values in decimal increments, I assume setting it to 1 will only result in loss of mpg, Am I right? 

 

Should be getting quad tomorrow. This is friggin awesome guys! Shoutout to @TFaoro & @Me78569 as well as @Mopar1973Man for convincing me to dump my edge and go the quad V2 route. Looking forward to smoking my wifes SUV in the MPG department haha 

 

 

1. Set this at a PSI that is above your normal DD cruising PSI.  This limit is set to prevent cruising time from engaging if boost is above that limit, IE going over a hill.  Typically in the 8-12psi region is where I would set it, but that depends on your psi at highway cruise.

 

2. That's a known bug in the IOS version of the software.  Typically you want this setting at 2 - 4 * of advance for optimal mpg at highway speeds.  Keep in mind this is a base 17* setting at 2400 rpm.  So if you want 20* at 65, set your cruise timing to ~3 -4 * so that when RPMS are at 2k then your timing will be at 20*   Mess with it some to find what works best for you.  Just remember it is setting your max cruise timing at 2400 rpm, it will ramp down in a linear fashion to 1400 rpm, 3* span or ~ 1* per 330 Revs.

 

 

 

 

 

34 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

1. Set this at a PSI that is above your normal DD cruising PSI.  This limit is set to prevent cruising time from engaging if boost is above that limit, IE going over a hill.  Typically in the 8-12psi region is where I would set it, but that depends on your psi at highway cruise.

 

2. That's a known bug in the IOS version of the software.  Typically you want this setting at 2 - 4 * of advance for optimal mpg at highway speeds.  Keep in mind this is a base 17* setting at 2400 rpm.  So if you want 20* at 65, set your cruise timing to ~3 -4 * so that when RPMS are at 2k then your timing will be at 20*   Mess with it some to find what works best for you.  Just remember it is setting your max cruise timing at 2400 rpm, it will ramp down in a linear fashion to 1400 rpm, 3* span or ~ 1* per 330 Revs.

 

I forgot to add that Max Load Timing Offset is called Fuel load timing on the iOS iQuad. Looks obvious to me that the two are the same. 

 

 

 

 

Edited February 21, 20178 yr by crf450ish

anyone tried to install an app radio and use the quad though it rather then a phone?

 

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/pioneer-6-2-built-in-bluetooth-apple-ipod-ready-in-dash-receiver-black/8131042.p?skuId=8131042

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2016-New-2-Din-Android-6-0-QUAD-CORE-CPU-Car-GPS-Stereo-1080P-Mirror-Play-Player-/122241284975?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368

 

just an idea to kill 2 birds one stone. I want to install a double din nav. back up camera ect unit anyways. just would like to lessen the clutter if possible.

I know of one guy that did it.  It's a neat idea, but I much prefer to take my phone in the house to tune with.  I don't know that I would enjoy tuning on the stereo.

 

You do have to jump through hoops to get it to install.  What hoops I have no idea.

well I get wifi from my phone and the house lol

10 hours ago, Jolsen said:

anyone tried to install an app radio and use the quad though it rather then a phone?

 

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/pioneer-6-2-built-in-bluetooth-apple-ipod-ready-in-dash-receiver-black/8131042.p?skuId=8131042

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2016-New-2-Din-Android-6-0-QUAD-CORE-CPU-Car-GPS-Stereo-1080P-Mirror-Play-Player-/122241284975?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368

 

just an idea to kill 2 birds one stone. I want to install a double din nav. back up camera ect unit anyways. just would like to lessen the clutter if possible.

 

10 hours ago, Me78569 said:

I know of one guy that did it.  It's a neat idea, but I much prefer to take my phone in the house to tune with.  I don't know that I would enjoy tuning on the stereo.

 

You do have to jump through hoops to get it to install.  What hoops I have no idea.

I velcroed a cheap android tabled to my sunvisor and routed a 10' charging cable to it lol. I flip it down to screw with on the fly and it keeps my gauges in eye view. works nicely, I need to post pictures 

Ok gang... Performance side what would be the best settings with my current setup? I want to play a little now the snow and ice are gone for most part.

If you wanna have some real fun, 

 

change the pump low limit psi to ~0-3 psi

And the pump min % to say %25

 

 

lol then go wide open throttle and wait for the cloud to clear 

@Mopar1973Man are you still using IAT fooler to summer like temperature with your current v2 tuning 

2 hours ago, Dieselfuture said:

@Mopar1973Man are you still using IAT fooler to summer like temperature with your current v2 tuning 

Yes. Helps A bunch with the cold mornings.

 

Funny I made the mistake of leavimy my Performance tune loaded and it's doing better MPGs than my economy tune. 

Edited February 22, 20178 yr by Mopar1973Man