Let me start off by saying that I am in no way affiliated with Quadzilla or Diesel Auto Power. I was simply asked to test the new updates because I have big injectors, I'm familiar with the Quad, and I know the person doing all of the tuning. This person wishes to remain anonymous, so it will stay that way.

On to the good stuff!!!

So what is V2? Basically it's a way to gain more control over the tuning parameters, with an emphasis on CLEAN POWER. I've got big injectors, and I've driven my own truck enough that I can drive it virtually smoke free, but I have to be very careful with the right petal (even when set to stock)

Here are the custom tuning parameters:

Alright, let's start with the power levels: 
0=stock
1=Power Percent (Explained later)
2=Fuel mileage (Same as the old number 1)
3=can-bus only (Same as old number 2)
4=can-bus + wiretap (same as old number 3)
and so on to the maximum level set is reached.

So, as you can see the first 8 parameters (through "TPS CAN Minimum") are the same as they've always been. They will function just like they used to.

The next two have to do with wiretap fueling. The "Boost Pump Scaling" gives the %specified of called for wiretap fueling if the boost is below the "boost pump low limit"
As an example:(Let's say it's set on level 10) In the pictures you can see I have the scaling set to 0% until 15psi. This means I'll get zero wiretap fueling until I hit 15psi of boost. If it was set at 50% I would get 600us of wiretap before 15psi. 
This greatly reduces the amount of smoke output without reducing your peak power.

Next we have Power Percent. This is the "new" level one! Here we have the percentage of stock power called for at all times. This is perfect to use for emissions testing, letting the wife/kids drive etc. This is also another way to reduce smoke if you're wanting to be really clean. 

Next is boost scaling. This is the same as it used to be. Just a smoothing feature.

Next we have PSI% listed 0-17 in increments of 1. This feature allows you to set the amount of stock power based on boost. It allows you to ramp up the power from 0-17psi, effectively reducing smoke and making the truck more driveable.

 

Now for my experience with testing.

 

Level 1: With my truck stock, I can floor it at any time and create quite a cloud of smoke. You'd swear I have a tuner cranked, but it's not. With my truck set to 70%, I can floor it while doing 55mph in 6th and get as big of a puff as a stock 24V. Meanwhile it'll pull about 34psi @ 2000rpm and 40psi by 2500rpm.  It does make the truck a little doggy, but I could adjust the percentage up as I saw fit and still keep smoke to a minimum. This would be perfect if someone were to borrow my truck (never going to happen but you get the point) They could try to hotrod it as much as they want but won't be able to. I do think this would make emissions a breeze to pass, and it could be used as a safety device to keep the truck from being stolen. Essentially you can set it to 1% and the truck would only idle.

 

Now for the PSI%: With the power level turned up around 1500rpm I can stab the throttle (0psi of boost) and get nothing more than a slight haze until the boost picks up and the quad starts fueling hard. Spool is still excellent under these conditions, I just need to work on my top-end fuel command to reduce the smoke up there. This has made the biggest difference in CLEAN power. The quad is essentially rolling into the throttle for you as the boost comes up so you don't cloud the highway when you get on it. 

Now the "Boost pump scaling" and "boost pump low limit": The wiretap fueling is essentially it's "own" programmer. It doesn't follow the rules of the can-bus fueling. This was taking effect in my description above because it doesn't wiretap fuel for me until 15psi of boost. Thus why it's only a haze until 15psi.

 

Now, what I'm not quite happy with yet. Off idle, if I stab the throttle on level 1 I get a puff of smoke. I am told this is because of where the quad takes over and starts controlling things. It's being worked on and should be fixed soon. Other than that I'm very happy! I do have only 20 miles or so of testing, but this does look very promising. I'll be putting 50 miles on in the morning and 50 miles in the afternoon, so I'll have more info then.

Any questions post em up and I'll do my best to answer them. The future of clean power for 24V's looks promising  

Edited February 13, 20178 yr by Me78569
Changed the title for SEO reasons

13 hours ago, Carbur8tr said:

I agree, I guess my big question is cruise timing and just timing in general and what the purpose was to pull it down so significantly under load and acceleration.

I wouldn't think twice but dropping timing by 9 or so degrees is definitely pointing to a purpose, not just random coding.  Also to the cylinder heat, if the higher timing does indeed increase the amount of heat in the cylinder this could be why the timing, when cold, is so high.  The engineers might have designed it this way to get the cylinder temperature up quicker.

 

Purely to reduce cylinder pressure. Warranty reasons. Hard on head gaskets.

12 hours ago, Me78569 said:

@Carbur8tr I %100 agree.  

 

I am fairly sure that your truck, being an ho, needs a 1*-2* offset of timing compared to ours.  I am all but sure the HO pumps are advanced in their design.

 

 

The only thing I am pretty dang sure of is that we aren't going to run into issues with the current way timing is working.  If the old Quadzilla tunes weren't blowing head gaskets left and right I very much doubt we will now.  I data logged the old stuff and just laughed.  

 

It might be that 20* is too much timing for cruise state for some guys.  Mine doesn't seem to care, but my auto keeps the truck loaded at idle so I might never hear or encounter it.

 

Dunno I am very glad that the vp44 is "user friendly" when it comes to tuning.   I made some mistakes in code that maxed out timing at 30* under 1500 rpm lol and nothing bad happened.  I am sure prolonged at that would, but overall the system seems pretty "nick" proof.

 

 

Could your elevation play a role in your truck liking higher timing? I've turned mine down to sit at a constant 17.75-18 degrees @ 2000 rpm vs 19 and noticed I can go 180 miles on 1/8th of a tank, compared to 1/4 tank the other day. That is a milestone for me considering how many times I have to merge onto the freeway. I don't pussyfoot around. 

Edited March 2, 20178 yr by crf450ish

it very well might be.   

21 hours ago, crf450ish said:

Could your elevation play a role in your truck liking higher timing?

 

21 hours ago, Me78569 said:

it very well might be.

 

 

My elevation is lower as well. I might travel over a few high point but spend a majority of time at 2,000 to 3,000 foot range on my runs. Max might reach 5,200 feet (Outside McCall, ID). I got to admit I love my performance tune I'm lower in the timing curve but pulls so darn hard. Now as for the economy tune I'm attempting to find the sweet spot on this. Starting a bit high and going to work my way down. I know with the current factors 20* and above timing is rather harsh and not getting much for MPG's. 

Update 3/5/2017

 

nothing to report.....   I would call things stable.

 

@Carbur8tr

 

Spent a good deal of time today watching timing.  I can say without a doubt that we are in "safe" realm for timing.  have you ever run a smarty on your truck?  if so did it ever do this timing knock?

@Carbur8tr you might want to take a look at this post by @Me78569 and see the timing curves of the Smarty tuner this will give you a base tune as well to build from.

 

 

So this idle thing you guys speak of. Seems like everyone's trucks idle a bit different. 

When I had my 300's in, it would idle at 800. It didn't matter if it was cold, hot, moving at 50mph, stationary, etc.

Now that I stuffed these stockers in, it idles at 815 when cold and not moving, 805 when warm and not moving, and 870ish when moving in neutral. What is up with this????

 

I also need to fill up, but I've been running 2* on cruise timing and I think the mileage on this tank will be at least 20 with old crappy injectors. (No weird missing for me either) 

@Mopar1973Man Hard to say on the injectors, if your theory is correct I have to wonder if the cylinder pressure is fatiguing the spring??? I've been talking with Nick a bit and agree that from the looks of the smarty data, the issue that we are having holds little water based off of the excess timing argument.  I know of a few people running the smarty and no one has ever complained about rough idle.  Still leads me to question though where this is coming from.  My injectors are fairly new so I would be very disappointed if I had one trying to go on me.

 

@TFaoro my idle can range anywhere from 830ish to below 800 when the idle is rough like described.  I think I've seen as low as 790.

I am sure I have asked this before, but can you feel this idle issue or is it audible only?

At least mine you can feel really good in the cab or hear it at the exhaust pipe.

Edited March 6, 20178 yr by Mopar1973Man

update 3/6/17 I opened my stupid mouth and I found a bug.  

 

It appears that if you are over 3500 rpm you might encounter a rogue value that causes timing to do funky stuff.  I am working on it now.

 

On the bright side I turned 3668 rpm so I must be a sled puller

Edited March 6, 20178 yr by Me78569

2 hours ago, Me78569 said:

update 3/6/17 I opened my stupid mouth and I found a bug.  

 

It appears that if you are over 3500 rpm you might encounter a rogue value that causes timing to do funky stuff.  I am working on it now.

 

On the bright side I turned 3668 rpm so I must be a sled puller

Keep saying it's done and I'll keep finding things

 

Be happy I do not have one. 

Edited March 6, 20178 yr by jlbayes

Alright,  Bug has been fixed.  Timing is doing what it should be doing above 3500 rpm.

 

 

If your truck sees 3400+ rpm I would suggest you update to the lastest hardfule or standard fuel tune.  Well really I would suggest updating to keep up with the jone's 

 

The flash is posted in the download section.  

 

@crf450ish are you running an iDevice?

On 3/6/2017 at 5:21 PM, Carbur8tr said:

@crf450ish are you running an iDevice?

Not now. Using wife's old android phone as a monitor. Already sent in wifi dongle and Spencer swapped it out for a bluetooth dongle. Got it today. 

 

Why?

Edited March 8, 20178 yr by crf450ish

Most likely because the android software works off the bluetooth side not wifi like iDevices do.

Any idea why I devices don't use Bluetooth 

Apple thing... 

 

Just say I got no love for Apple devices. Android / Linux no problem. Most because anything and everything for iPhone has a price tag. Where anything Android / Linux is typically free. 

Shows you who apple is afiliated with, just a coincidence I'm sure.