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Ok guys I'm needing to replace the control arm bushings in my ol  dodge, I'm looking at getting them from Genos garage but they offer 2 sets based on bolt size is there any way to tell the size with out removing the bolts

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There should be enough threads sticking out to use a pair of calipers to measure the bolts.  

 

 

Be prepared to cut the eccentric bolts on the front of the lower arms. I would order new ones from the dealer ahead of time. Make sure they get you both washers and the nut for each bolt. Both of mine had to be cut. I just take a sawzall and cut the bolt on each side of the control arm inside the pocket. Just be careful not to damage the arm or the pocket if you have to do this. You'll want lots of antiseize when you put it back together!

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Good thought on using the caliper to measure the bolts, but looks like I'll have to put it off I can't afford the bushing kit and new bolts too, plus new shocks, I'll just deal with the shake for a while more

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Is there any where else to get the replacement bolts besides the dealer, the closest dealer to me is over an hour away 

online is the only place, but they are pricey regardless of where you get them.

Possibly if you soak them with good penetrating oil over a period of time(week or 2), you can save the bolts. 

Another option to consider. You can get a control arm with bushings already installed for around $50 a piece. Then through whatever matter of destruction you prefer cut the control arm out around the bolt.

You just have to get to the inner sleeve of the bushing and heat it up with a torch and it should work loose.  

I wouldn't count on getting the bolt out even with a torch. We had mine glowing read and hit it with an air chisel and still wouldn't budge. It also makes a huge mess of the rubber bushing just FYI. 

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1 hour ago, leathermaneod said:

I wouldn't count on getting the bolt out even with a torch. We had mine glowing read and hit it with an air chisel and still wouldn't budge. It also makes a huge mess of the rubber bushing just FYI. 

I use to take the torch (flaming hacksaw) and cut the bolt head or nut off depending which way I was going with it.  Of course, the rubber in the bushing would catch fire so once the A-arm came off the frame I kept the torch on it and cut the outer bushing metal from the A-arm.  Clean up, press in new bushing, a little paint and under coating, done.    

No your not screwed. Just get a bunch of good quality sawzall blades and get to work :-) I used 8" ones. carefully cut the bolt on each side of the control arm. Don't damage the pocket! We had broken off both sides of mine, nut and head. Then torch and chisel. Still no luck so sawzall. Make sure you get the bolts, 2 washers for each, and a nut for each. The rear bolts should come out fine. If your not in the salt belt you may be fine with then all, you'll just have to see

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Well I ment screwed on gettin new bolts I just seriously am unable to make it to the dealer before they close  but we do have some salt bet not too much so far I've not had any issues with any other bolt on the truck but I know these being in the bushing sleeve is a totally diff ball game. Does any one know of a good place on line to get the bolts, oh by the way thanks for the info it hadn't occurred to me that the bolts could be stuck 

Yours might not be stuck, did you try to remove the nuts yet? I understand it is very common to have them stuck, but hey you might get lucky....

im not sure where to get them online, search for eccentric bolts

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I haven't tried yet I got a get out this week end an measure the bolts to make sure I order the right bushings

Edited by stevens cummins

Well take an impact gun and a 13/16 (I think) socket with you :-))

Or maybe 7/8"... I don't remember for sure I'm sorry 

Edited by leathermaneod

If those bolts are rusty you obviously don't have enough oil leaks!!

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I've got that covered to lol vacume pump reseal is in the short future

I have never done this repair or adjustment but after 15 years I would not expect the bolts to just loosen with out some resistance and possible breakage. I would like to throw all the caster at it and see what happens.

That's why I did my passenger side. I wanted all the caster I could get. I really don't get those front lower bolts. The rear ones literally come right out, the front ones won't budge. Hopefully your stealership is better than mine, I paid $28 for the bolt, washers, and nut....I did get my caster maxed out though and it did help a little with return to center. Nothing amazing though.

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Welcome To Mopar1973Man.Com LLC

We are privately owned, with access to a professional Diesel Mechanic, who can provide additional support for Dodge Ram Cummins Diesel vehicles. Many detailed information is FREE and available to read. However, in order to interact directly with our Diesel Mechanic, Michael, by phone, via zoom, or as the web-based option, Subscription Plans are offered that will enable these and other features.  Go to the Subscription Page and Select a desired plan. At any time you wish to cancel the Subscription, click Subscription Page, select the 'Cancel' button, and it will be canceled. For your convenience, all subscriptions are on auto-renewal.