Last year I got my tranny completely rebuilt,our local tranny specialist put everything heavy duty and it never performed too good it seemed like the shifting was sluggish from 1st to 2nd  and now 9000K later the tranny let go again he pulled it apart and everything was wore out he replaced everything under warranty and he mentioned that the problem was the alternator, as anybody experience something similar?

NAPA wants to know which output speed sensor the one on the rear diff or the one on the output shaft?

1 hour ago, wagntagn said:

NAPA wants to know which output speed sensor the one on the rear diff or the one on the output shaft?

 

It would be in the output shaft of the transmission. 

 

4 hours ago, wagntagn said:

Called the tranny guy and he said he tried 4 different governor press solenoids some were over $100. and it didn't make any difference,for the tv cable he mentioned he adjusted it for quicker shifting? to try to correct the shuttle of 1st and 2nd.Where is the location of the speed sensor?

 

I would follow @Dynamic suggestions on the governor pressure solenoids. 

Is this the tv cable adjustment?I did 1 turn in and same thing should I go till the cable is tight?

Go to the downloads section on here and download the FSM for your year truck and follow the instructions in there for the proper way to do it. Sorry to give such a generic answer but it's really the easiest way to explain it.

3 hours ago, wagntagn said:

Is this the tv cable adjustment?I did 1 turn in and same thing should I go till the cable is tight?

Couldn't download the FSM needed to create an account so tried tightening up the cable went 3 turns on the torx screw went for a test drive 1 block from home the tranny died and the engine light came on,had to back off the adjustment back to original set and I was back on the go but the engine light stayed on?

Is the governor pressure solenoid an easy fix?

the tv cable is at the bottom.  the adjustment is at the back of the bracket near or at the side of fuel filter canister. it's just a plastic clip that lock in groove for adjustment.   take care to not broke the clip!

You moved the apps. You will need a meter to set it back.

23 hours ago, Dynamic said:

Easiest way to check an output speed sensor is to just screw a new one in there. They cost $10, and take 2 minutes to change.

 

I still think you're chasing a governor pressure solenoid issue. If you don't have a Borg HD in there, put one in...

 

The TV cable adjustment is not causing your issues, but you do need to verify that the WOT 1-2 shift is at 2800-2900 rpm.

 

12 hours ago, wagntagn said:

Couldn't download the FSM needed to create an account so tried tightening up the cable went 3 turns on the torx screw went for a test drive 1 block from home the tranny died and the engine light came on,had to back off the adjustment back to original set and I was back on the go but the engine light stayed on?

Is the governor pressure solenoid an easy fix?

 

 

Dynamic is our trans guy, I would suggest you follow his recommendation.

so I backed up the torx screw back where it was ,checked the engine light codes and erased,went for a test drive and same thing as before kinda skips 2nd gear and shuttles into overdrive,here's the codes I had.The 1st pic as nothing to do with this thread

code 121 is related to your adjustment of the apps 

 

 

Code 1693 is saying there is another code

  

code 602 is that other code telling you that you have a tuner flashed to the ecm.

 

 

however your shifting issues has nothign to do with the above codes.

I'm trying to send a 30 sec. video on the shifting and no luck!So I tighten up the tv and it's a little better but not good,did 4 little videos at WOT and I could smell like burnt clutches,getting pretty frustrating I think I'll bring it to a different tranny shop to investigate the overhaul and maybe they'll figure it out,is there a port on the tranny that could show me if I have the good pressure for shifting?Is it possible to send videos on this forum?

On 5/31/2017 at 7:39 AM, Dynamic said:

I still think you're chasing a governor pressure solenoid issue. If you don't have a Borg HD in there, put one in...

 

The TV cable adjustment is not causing your issues, but you do need to verify that the WOT 1-2 shift is at 2800-2900 rpm.

 

Do what this man is suggesting!! He's not just telling you for fun. 

 

Reset your apps using the write up in the article section here and once that's done, verify tv cable adjustment by doing what was mentioned by Dynamic. 

 

Sorry if this sounds hard but you've been given excellent advice and are still out doing your own thing, possibly making this worse, since you're smelling a burning transmission. Fix what's been suggested quickly before you cost yourself some major coin. 

4 hours ago, wagntagn said:

Is it possible to send videos on this forum?

Upload to youtube and post the url in the reply box.  It will embed and it doesn't chew up server storage.

what's your line pressure??  there's a plug on helper side of the tranny.  you can hook a gauge to see the pressure

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Edited June 2, 20177 yr by jlbayes

This week I'm working out of town and dropped my truck at a different transmission shop and ask them to check it over and replace the governor solenoid valve so the guy took it for a ride and told me it's running too hot and slipping in all gears ,I showed him the receipt from the other shop and he mentioned the torq convertor he installs in his rebuilt are triple disc and almost double in price and don't slip and run hot he figures the HD multiple disc at $1000.00 Cdn the one in the tranny doesn't hold with the Smarty on setting 9.Does that makes sense?

Oh boy...

 

You never mentioned anything about running a Smarty. That can be a really quick recipe for disaster on a stock or close to stock trans due to how aggressive they fuel down low. If you were running it on level 9 for any good amount of time, especially towing or hot-rodding (even a little bit!) then it could be too late for your stock trans.

 

I'd recommend putting all power levels back to stock and see if that makes the truck driveable so you can at least use it as a mode of transportion if need be until you can get it rebuilt. 

 

As as far as triple disc converters, @Dynamic won't install anything else in these trucks even at STOCK power levels. The trucks just put out too much torque for a single disc to do a good enough job even at stock levels. 

The first time the tranny was rebuilt I told the tranny guy I wanted a HD rebuilt to hold that power but maybe the all time is HD multi disc wasn't the proper one and slipping from start,the advice from the other tranny guy was you need to go with the triple disc convertor,I'll talked to the first guy and see what he thinks?

18 hours ago, notlimah said:

 

 

As as far as triple disc converters, @Dynamic won't install anything else in these trucks even at STOCK power levels. The trucks just put out too much torque for a single disc to do a good enough job even at stock levels. 

Hmmm. Interesting. I followed the torque converter discussions pretty closely when I was ready to put one in years ago and the general idea HAD been that a triple is a no, no  with a stock input for fear of breaking it. I talked to Frank at Revmax at the time and he sold me on a billet big single after talking about me and my truck. Now I tow ~ 9k with the Edge on 2 and run empty on 5 and my TC won't even offer a hint of shudder, and I know what shudder and slip feels like. It's been in for about 35k and is still working like day one. Not trying to disagree with Dynamic at all, I realize he is quite popular around here. But is the thought now that a triple disc OK on an otherwise stock trans.?

I think the valve body needs to be set up perfectly with a single disc and higher power. My single was slipping in lockup with 350-400hp. Now I have a triple disc and billet input, same valve body, no slipping. One friction surface holding 800+ ft-lbs of torque...