Anyone have any experience with this product? http://www.thetunnelram.com/ does it do what it claims, more even air flow to cyl, better mileage, cooler egt's and cyl temps? Is it worth the money? Does anyone have one and can answer definitively the above questions.

I am having doubts. Pressure is pressure, if it says 20psi, that doesn't mean 20psi to cylinder 2, it means that whole intake manifold chamber is filled with 20psi of air, and since the square that the intake horn bolts to is the same size, I see no CFM addition. It looks nice, but I don't think you would notice anything at all.

Isn't pressure only a part of the equation of getting air into the cylinders?Doesn't the volume of the passage need to be considered also?What about the smoothness of the walls of the passage?What about the effect of abrupt 90 degree corners on airflow?

Here is how I see it. The intake manifold is an air tank, there is not individual ports like the exhaust manifold, otherwise the intake manifold would have 6 ports instead of one big chamber. Pressure is equal everywhere in a tank, when you open the valve on an air tank, the rest of the tank accommodates for it, while the valve is open, you could have a million pressure sensors in the the tank and they would all have the same reading, this the tank relieves pressure at a constant rate, having every spot inside it reducing pressure equally. CFM is the other factor, if you have an 80 gallon air tank, your still restricted by your 1/2" air hose.. On the same token, the tank can only be filled as fast as the line from the compressor can fill it and the pressure difference that is there, and since all pressure in a tank is equal, the pressure difference quickly if not instantly, equalizes.Now, how this relates.. The turbo is the compressor, the plumbing running to the intake manifold is the line from the compressor to the tank, so that is one factor. Remember that the Tunnel Ram Intake has the same opening rectangle size as stock, so you gain no flow there, even if it was bigger, you still have the plumbing from the turbo to the intake that would all have to be upgraded as well, as well as a bigger turbo to actually need the bigger plumbing.Now the intake manifold is the tank, filled with the amount of boost you build which we will say is 20psi. Being a tank, it is obvious that the only restriction is the 1/2" line going to your air tools, or in this case, the amount your valves open or the size of them. The air tank or intake manifold has plenty of capacity to flow through a valve, it is just waiting to let out it's 20psi, and being fed by a 3" intake to a tiny little valve opening...yeah it has more than enough flow/capacity. If you were running 100psi, were a sled puller, and running 5000rpm, then your valves will be using the air tank like crazy and you might notice a negligible gain in flow to your #6 piston from the fancy intake and I do mean negligible. If you are running that kind of stuff, why not just get the banks dual ram intake..which still is restricted by intake-to-turbo plumbing :lol:Lastly, if your not blowing black smoke and your EGT's are not through the roof, I think you are flowing plenty. Your turbo CFM is the main issue. I only have 6 intake valves and when I made a thread about what EGT does your truck seem to level out at, the results between 24v and 12v were also negligible, so I think only sled pullers see the benefits of 24v's since they would be able to easily "outflow" a 12v's head, but for those who are 350HP/35psi and under, I don't think there is any inadequacy in having only 6 intake valves.

My original question was "Does anyone have one and can answer definitively the above questions" (that I had posted).So I have to ask you, do you have a tunnel ram?Have you ever had any actual experience with one that you are basing your statements on or are you trying to reason out whether it works or not.As I see it the holes in your air tank analogy are numerous and there is no caparison to the intake manifold mainly because of volume, shape, and cfm flow. Do you have any background in fluid dynamics (which covers gaseous fluids) or airflow design. Have you even ever pulled the plate off of the manifold and looked at the inside to see how much it looks like an airtank (not) and it's not smooth, free, and open to allow constant airflow through out like an air compressor tank much less compare with the volume of an 80 gal tank.So my bottom line is I don't think I'm much interested in an opinion on a product that isn't based upon first hand experience.Please don't take this as a personal affront, I don't mean it that way. I'm sure you are quite knowledgeable on the Cummins engine, but I'm really wanting feedback from someone with experience with the product.

I dont have one though knowing what my plate looked like when I removed it to to reseal my head at 189,000 I would say this piece may be worth its salt simply because I got more mpg gain with my bhaf and mandrel bent 4in exhaust then anything else so in theory by smoothing and increase volume of airflow you will see gains maybee not a daily driver but towing most definately being the same cost of my valve cover I wanted lol I rather purchase one of those and fix my valve cover prolly get more out of it... just my I know you wanted someone that had one but with my racing experiance and playing with doing porting and polishing on my own heads this is basicaly the same trust me this is added to my wish list for the summer

I don't mean it that way. I'm sure you are quite knowledgeable on the Cummins engine, but I'm really wanting feedback from someone with experience with the product.

try this .... and lay of the ISX *joke* ->

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/272993-tunnel-ram-anyone-know-about.html

---------- Post added at 06:47 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:18 PM ----------

Uh oh ......

jim caught me with my pants down ....................

How in the world can a little taper do that! Fluid dynamics you say, hmm, if that works then I might as well throw everything I know out the window. Either way I don't see how when, eh, I'll stay out of this stuff from now on

Here is a manifold for a 3rd Gen I think will do more good...

Comes from...

http://www.hellmannperformance.com/welcome.html

Just found this gem...BLING!

The air turbulance is what it is meant to reduce. As the pic Mike posted is the best way to go about it if serious about intake improvements. Mill off the cast intake and drill and tap the head and that way the intake ports can be ported for better airflow.and bolt on the aftermarket intake manifold. There have been many thread on other forums where it has been proven time and again where just smoothing and cleaning up the factory intake cover and porting what is reachable in the intake housing itself has contributed to better spooling, egts and HP numbers.

Here is a manifold for a 3rd Gen I think will do more good...

Comes from...

http://www.hellmannperformance.com/welcome.html

Just found this gem...BLING!

Looks really cool. Do you have a used one for $235.00 shipped? :lmao:

What does it take to retrofit it to a 2nd gen?

Is it an affordable option for the common guy?

I dont know quite what isx has been talking about but whenever you allow air to flow less turbulent and less obstructed on a boosted app. you will see both more hp and a litlle better mpg the turbo pushing harder and the air can flow free'er than it could before I dont now how you wouldnt see a gain of sorts by the nature the charge will be denser hence why you will gain hp and not as much mpg the best way my tutors explained it was you get more form a bigger aircharge cooler with bigger pipes you gain hp due to the denser charge and mpg at the same time because you arn't working as hard as far as I understand thats why our diesels have the abbility to get 23 mpg because the factory restricted them... just like the bs that almost all our trucks on this forum by federal regulation are illegal strange right if your curios I'll start another thread not preaching just my two cents and I think this may be the chance for my auto to get 22 mpg up from 20

That plate doesent change 1 and 6.They are small because of the casting.I have a sidedraft like the one in the picture mine is from zz fabrication and it is for a vp truck.I have his prototype (the first one).If you cut off the intake and get one from zz it is the only way to get max flo.You asked it anyone has input.I dont, but if you read up on it you will see that the problem on our heads are 1 and 6.This will do nothing for that.My question to you is what are you trying to do?What are your goals for your truck? Not worth the money.People getting max mpg and going fast dont use this.

That's the thing here... Are you looking at it from... 1. Normal driving aspect?2. Or from a racing aspect? Normal driving I don't see a need for it or even if the tunnel ram would do much for ya... But from a performance aspect of racing, quarter mile, dyno queen, etc... Yeah every little bit would help in getting the power out of it.

I am going to take a stab at it and say you could probably break out the die grinder with a few sand paper rolls and smooth the transition on your stock manifold plate to achieve very close flow numbers. I really do not see that big of a flow difference occurring between stock and this expensive plate. Also since your engine is turbocharged I am willing to bet there is already plenty of turbulence happening in the intake manifold. However it does look beautifully machined, but probably not worth your time or money.

I am going to take a stab at it and say you could probably break out the die grinder with a few sand paper rolls and smooth the transition on your stock manifold plate to achieve very close flow numbers. I really do not see that big of a flow difference occurring between stock and this expensive plate. Also since your engine is turbocharged I am willing to bet there is already plenty of turbulence happening in the intake manifold. However it does look beautifully machined, but probably not worth your time or money.

Don't stab blindly in the dark my friend... You are right to be skeptical of performance claims as we have all been lied to. (my truck never got 2-4mpg better after installing a timing box or injectors) Please take a look at the pictures and you will see there is no way to grind and sand the OEM plate to be where this product will take it. http://www.dieselautopower.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=TUNNELRAM98-02&Show=ExtInfo Notice the fist sized casting in the block cutting off air to the back cylinders. Everyone I have talked to who has installed it has commented on lower EGT (75-100) and faster spool up (50rpm to 100rpm sooner) + less smoke

Anyone have any experience with this product? http://www.thetunnelram.com/ does it do what it claims, more even air flow to cyl, better mileage, cooler egt's and cyl temps? Is it worth the money? .

Any updates boss ?? You ordered one right ?

Any updates boss ?? You ordered one right ?

Yup, got it on the truck. Easy install took about 1/2 hr, only had to take #1 injector line off the head. Seems to do what it claims, engine even sounds a little different, def runs a little cooler.

Yup, got it on the truck. Easy install took about 1/2 hr, only had to take #1 injector line off the head. Seems to do what it claims, engine even sounds a little different, def runs a little cooler.

sweet

Yup, got it on the truck. Easy install took about 1/2 hr, only had to take #1 injector line off the head. Seems to do what it claims, engine even sounds a little different, def runs a little cooler.

I curious if there is a MPG change from it?

I curious if there is a MPG change from it?

Don't think I'll be able to tell you for sure because I also put on a HX35/40 turbo and a timbo APPS. So if there is a gain or loss I wouldn't know what item or what combination of items cause the gain or loss.