Got the death wobble going when I hit a bump wrong, so I suppose it's time for a brace box.  Is one as good as another, are they all the same or is there some to stay away from?

In my experience, you probably have loose front end parts, possibly the track bar. 

What size tires are you running? What size wheels too? Lot of the death wobble start with oversized tires that are way out of balance. Then I dig into the shocks and suspension. 

Stock wheels and tires, 3500 dually. 

The best brace is from dodge off road.

 

But I agree. you Likely have worn out parts causing your death wobble issue.

I would have to agree with everyone that the brace is not going to stop it. I put on years to help with wandering. It may of helped a little. Never experienced DW until years later on an old set tires. New tires stopped for me. My track bar going south at the time also so I replaced that. worn front end part do not help either.

Yep save your money on the brace and do an R&R on the front end.  

 

Don't rule out tires, I've have death wobble happen a few times, but every time it was related to a tire that gave up the ghost.  

I'm at 289k miles now home stretch to 300k miles. Never experienced death wobble on my truck yet. Steering is still tight. Still running factory steering box and tie rods ends. Only changed 1 set of ball joints and one track bar. No steering brace on my truck at all. Use quite a bit offroad and no issues to date. Mostly it's about being pro-active about steering issues not lets the little things all adding up to create the death wobble. 

Yeah, my '95 12v 4x4 Reg cab drives straight as an arrow and always has. 

My '99 24v dually has new(ish) tires all the way around and appear to be in great shape, hit a bump wrong with the play it has in the steering and the DW starts. I have to slam on brakes and/or turn the wheel "out of the play" to get it to stop. 

I do not doubt my front end is wore out. I've been in limbo over wether to tear it apart myself or take it somewhere and drop a grand (I'm sure!) to get a new front end. Seems like it should be easy but I know nothing about tie rods, Pittman arms, sway bars, drag links, etc!!!!

About 6 years ago I went in to get an alignment and was told I needed about $900 worth of work done to be able to align it. This was not replacing everything that you mention above. I ended up buying all the parts to rebuild the whole front end excluding the pittman arm. All new from there out including the ball joints. I spent close to $900 on parts and tools but ended up with a new front end.and about $200 in tools that have used for other purposes. As far as the work is concerned it is all pretty much bolt off and bolt on, not that difficult. It you have the original wheel bearings on they can be a challenge. The lower ball joints are tough too. I had to beat them since the ball joint press did not have a receiver cup that worked. It did work for the install. If you are handy with a wrench it is not that hard but you will spend some time doing. I probably spent 3 days doing mine but I like beer breaks when I have the time. You also have a 99 and mine is an 02 so I am not sure how different it would be but there are some differences between the 2. 

On 3/7/2017 at 6:08 PM, leon said:

Got the death wobble going when I hit a bump wrong, so I suppose it's time for a brace box.  Is one as good as another, are they all the same or is there some to stay away from?

 

It would be best understanding what year/model truck you have, how many miles on it, whats done to it, and any other modifications which may allow members to help better.

4 hours ago, KATOOM said:

 

It would be best understanding what year/model truck you have, how many miles on it, whats done to it, and any other modifications which may allow members to help better.

Does my signature not show my trucks listed in it? I thought I put them in there, and it shows on my profile. 

No it doesnt.  Some forums wont show the signature when accessing through mobile devices.

The signature setting are up in your profile setting. Yo can access them by going to upper right clicking on your name. Then Account settings. Then select signature.

 

Or click this link...

https://mopar1973man.com/settings/signature/

 

Mopar1973Man.Com site shows signatures on mobile devices.

Edited March 10, 20178 yr by Mopar1973Man

 

Thats why this site is superior.....  Well not the only reason.

4 minutes ago, KATOOM said:

 

Thats why this site is superior.....  Well not the only reason.

 

 

I attempt to listen to the members and keep adding things that are needed... 

Hey Guys,

I have a Lot of play in my steering...replaced the steering box, tie rods, track bar, both front wheel bearings, tie rods, bushings, intermediate steering shaft, and shocks

. Running 265/75/16 Goodyear  Wrangler DuraTrac tires with 5k miles on them.

Don't have wobble, just lots of play in the steering wheel.

Thinking about a box brace....

Suggestions on brand etc?

Thanks much in advance,

Ed

PS: Drove it from Orange County, NY to Klickitat County, WA. and feel like I did double the amount of steering that I used to do when it was younger.

Personally skip the brace and readjust the steering box to take up any slack. Double check all your steering linkage for slop this includes both input steering shaft and tie rods.

The true point of the brace is in order to support the steering box shaft when subject to tires which are larger than what the truck rolled off the factory assembly line with.  The added stress placed on the steering box causes shaft deflection which stresses out the shaft bearing and seal, eventually causing a leak and/or a sloppy steering box shaft.  The other advantage of the brace is to prevent the frame from twisting where the steering box is mounted, which can add some play to the overall steering reaction.  But again, larger tires are the cause of that and if the tires are stock size or close to that then its likely you'll notice any gain.

 

Really the steering brace isnt for rejuvenating a sloppy steering system.  Most likely if there's excessive amounts of play then probably something else is wrong.

 

Thanks Guys!!

Have another cross-country coming up middle of next month, so really want to get Her snugged up!

Is there a dedicated post to adjusting the steering box?

Thanks!!!!

Ed

Basically all I do is loosen the lock nut. Then run the sector adjustment all the way in till seated. Make sure you not seated on the lock nut make sure it loose enough. Then back off about 1.5 turns then hold the adjustment while you tighten the lock nut. That's all there is to the adjustment. There is input bearing pre-load adjustment too but rarely have I've seen anyone needing to adjust that.