I am going to start saving for some injectors but don't know much about which ones to choose, I have seen that there are different horse rated ones. I want something that I don't have to change the turbo asoon as I upgrade the injectors, but I also want to have enough power injectors for when I do upgrade the turbo. Any advice would be appreciated . Thanks!

If you like to keep fuel milage RV275's work great. I had a set of 75hp coaltrain inj. and if I keep my foot out of it they got good mileage. This was on the mod. list I have below. Man I dont know about anything 100hp of more, all I can say is wow a lot of hp going on there. If it where me something would break for sure.

I am going to start saving for some injectors but don't know much about which ones to choose, I have seen that there are different horse rated ones. I want something that I don't have to change the turbo asoon as I upgrade the injectors, but I also want to have enough power injectors for when I do upgrade the turbo. Any advice would be appreciated . Thanks!

you have already passed the point where a turbo is in your future. The Quadzilla adrenaline can outrun a stock turbo. I would do a turbo before yours goes then you can at least sell it for $300 or so to offset the price of a new turbo. Save up and buy the turbo and injectors together. 100HP for superB, 150HP for 62mm

If you like to keep fuel milage RV275's work great. I had a set of 75hp coaltrain inj. and if I keep my foot out of it they got good mileage. This was on the mod. list I have below. Man I dont know about anything 100hp of more, all I can say is wow a lot of hp going on there. If it where me something would break for sure.

I'm with you JL... I'm also running the RV275 and enjoying my last trip to Boise, ID at a comfy 22 MPG. With a Edge comp on 5x5 and RV275 it does wonderful pulls strong and more than enough HP/TQ for what I need. As for myself I'm keeping my tire on the smaller side to provent breakage of the driveline... I rather slip a tire than break a trans ot transfer case...

When you can spin the tires on a dully that weighs just shy of 10k, thats all you need.

Ok found some injectors I like but can't decide . Dieseldawgs.com have some RV275 but they also have some fireball ones that are 50 to 60 hp for a little less but those are core exchange so what's you all toughts on this? http://dieseldawgs.com/product_info.php?cPath=22_119_187&products_id=1930

Your question depends on you. If you can stay happy with what the injectors can do.The 275's are fine.You will not regret getting injectors.If you can keep your old ones better yet.An extra set comes in handy.When and how big of a turbo are you thinking of ?

Can't wait to get my new injectors I just order, Am getting some RV275 I was very close to get the fireball 150's but not going to have the money soon to upgrade my turbo and clutch so taking it easy.

I agree with the above that the RV275 injectors are the best bang for the buck. Only reason I went with the F1 Mach 1.6 injectors was the a friend has a set of them and an Edge EZ for sale $400 that he took off of his truck because he said they smoked too much. The injectors by themselves did smoke like a freight train but with the addition of the Edge EZ, BHAF, and 5 inch straight pipe exhaust, they run really clean and STRONG under normal use but will kill a few mosquito's if I mash the go pedal to the floor under low boost conditions. I should also point out that this combination requires a much stronger clutch as my OEM/stock clutch will slip if I am not careful about applying the power. Too much power with a heavy load is out of the question as it will badly slip the stock clutch. My stock clutch is still is good condition so I am going to try to make it last but when the time comes to replace it, I will be installing a South Bend clutch and slave cylinder.

Ok I got all the injectors out now I got a quick question do I need to brush the bore?

I didn't brush the injector bores out on mine when we replaced the injectors.

Check out what I ended up using to pull the injector tubes .I tried needle nose pliers and a screwdriver didn't work and this Swiss nife ended up working for me, this end was very smooth and it was very easy on the tread of the injector tubes.

I wonder why yours are so oily and have all that carbon build up. I'd like to find out. Mine looked like this upon removal.

most mechanics i have talked to have told me that 24valve's carbon up quick. it seems to be related to the head being cooler than the 12valves. everyone that mentioned this, suggested that idling should be avoided accept for letting the turbo cool after pulling heavy loads.

You dont want any crud to fall inside.I diddnt brush mine.You sure do have some funky looking tubes.I am sure you know this, but you have to replace the rubber o ring on the tubes.I have a home made shopvac with a vacuum straw to get into small places.I would hate to tell you what to do and have something bad happen.On the other hand that crud on your tubes will prevent a good seal on the new ones if some of that funky junk is still in there.Whatever you do be smart about it.

Well I went bought some wire brushes from harbor freight and got them in there and then I blew in some compressed air as much as I could but I couldnt help a little oil get in to injector 6 .I also tried to torque the injector hold downs and torque them to 8 ft lb .I also replaced the the o ring on the injector tubes and tried to clean all that crud from the injector tubes as much as I could with out scratching them . Dually what do you mean by funky looking tubes are they not normal.

---------- Post added at 11:10 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:03 PM ----------

most mechanics i have talked to have told me that 24valve's carbon up quick. it seems to be related to the head being cooler than the 12valves. everyone that mentioned this, suggested that idling should be avoided accept for letting the turbo cool after pulling heavy loads.

So the best thing to do I guess is to not leave it idling unless you have been pulling heavy load right? No Idling at all even after driving in town to let it cool off ? Whats the recommended time to let it idle when needed?

So the best thing to do I guess is to not leave it idling unless you have been pulling heavy load right? No Idling at all even after driving in town to let it cool off ? Whats the recommended time to let it idle when needed?

their opinions were that a stock truck is going to generate enough heat to warrant a cool down period. i live about 2 miles from the interstate. they(about 5 people over 3 years) thought that the distance gave plenty of time of cool down.(ie don't hop of the highway and kill it right away) i don't work on these things. just passing info i have been told

You basically want to wait until the EGT's are down to around 350F before you shut down. If you drive it real easy the last 1/4 mile before you stop, it will drop down to that temp in no time. Pulling a trailer you might find that you have stopped and its up at 450 and slowly cooling down, that is when you want to give it a bit to cool off.

Well I went bought some wire brushes from harbor freight and got them in there and then I blew in some compressed air as much as I could but I couldnt help a little oil get in to injector 6 .I also tried to torque the injector hold downs and torque them to 8 ft lb .I also replaced the the o ring on the injector tubes and tried to clean all that crud from the injector tubes as much as I could with out scratching them . Dually what do you mean by funky looking tubes are they not normal.

---------- Post added at 11:10 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:03 PM ----------

So the best thing to do I guess is to not leave it idling unless you have been pulling heavy load right? No Idling at all even after driving in town to let it cool off ? Whats the recommended time to let it idle when needed?

In the first picture the 1st, 3rd, 5th have heavy black chunks of some kind of oil or dirt.Thats what i was seeing.Just clean them after you remove the o rings.Then oil the new oring and roll them on.I use a old tooth brush.Be carefull not to scar them at all when cleaning.Dont run a screw driver up and down on the tube to clean them.

You basically want to wait until the EGT's are down to around 350F before you shut down. If you drive it real easy the last 1/4 mile before you stop, it will drop down to that temp in no time. Pulling a trailer you might find that you have stopped and its up at 450 and slowly cooling down, that is when you want to give it a bit to cool off.

I wait and let it idle until the EGT showing on the guage at least 300 or below. Probably a little overkill but I figure better safe than sorry. It doesn't take but an extra minute or so depending on how much of a load was on the engine.

I wait and let it idle until the EGT showing on the guage at least 300 or below. Probably a little overkill but I figure better safe than sorry. It doesn't take but an extra minute or so depending on how much of a load was on the engine.

Well that's the safe temp, must be easier for 24V to hit than my 12. I can't seem to get it under 350 no matter what I do. Maybe if I idle for 10 min. I run synthetic so I just let it drop under 400 then shut it down. But if you can hit 300 that fast, definitely wait for it. The cooler everything is on shutdown, the less everything will superheat when you turn it off. For those who might not understand why you wait to shut it down, the oil is constantly moving through the turbo and everything, it probably never gets much over 200F. When you turn the engine off however, the oil sits in the turbo bearings, not moving, absorbing all the heat from that turbo. If you shut it off when the engine is too hot, the oil becomes too hot and forms coking or residue on everything. This is why you shut it down at the lowest possible temp to prevent the oil from getting too hot. 300F is the usual recommended shut down temp.