Well I hate to say that word head gasket, but I got oil bubbling out of front right, by head bolt just to the right looking from front( I got ARP's from po. ) It bubbles tiny little bit from head gasket and running down front cover, not enough to drip on the ground yet. Wondering where is a good place to get parts from, like a gasket set and whatever else I may need. Though about mabe going through the turbo but want to up size to at least a hybrid, so might just leave it be. Another thing is I already have ARP studs but not sure which ones, how do I tell, I know there is more than one choise. Will need to know torque on them when putting the hradon backnowledge on. Can I get the head off without removing studs looks pretty close. I will take the head to machine shop to surface and maybe even check for cracks, since I heard 24 valve heads like to crack sometimes. Will probably do a valve job and new seals at the same time. Not sure about ringing the head. The T at the back of the head, what's the best way going about it. Thanks for any advice. I will probably be lining up parts for a while and keep driving the truck,  unless it gets real bad or just blows out. I'm guessing there is an oil passage somewhere up front, just not sure how it's getting pushed out, oil pump pressure? Does it have something to do with coolant, I don't think I'm using any, maybe a little I had to put about a quart in the other day, will keep an eye on it. 

Edited July 3, 20177 yr by Dieselfuture

Not for a low rpm 600hp setup. I was already given the blessing when I asked about it. lol

  On 7/21/2017 at 1:16 PM, jlbayes said:

Not for a low rpm 600hp setup. I was already given the blessing when I asked about it. lol

I tried the 83/1.1 T6 and drive pressure was nuts. 115+ at 65 boost. It was probably around 600hp too. Made the EGTs skyrocket.

I am after torque more than anything. With an auto, rpms won't be an issue. There are other housings available too if I need it.

So you guys mentioned that you weren't sure on my spray pattern, what should it look like.

Is mine too much timing and that's why you see it on outside of piston and not in the bowl. Or does it look normal.

It is fine. Promise it is not hurting anything.

Alright guys and gals, got my turbo today. I'm giving it 9 out of 10 and this is before driving the truck. Came with cnc machined beer opener. On first glance it looks good, on closer observation I've noted and older more pitted exhaust housing, very similar to mine( wish it was a bit better ). But I'm sure they would not send it out if they were not sure. Bearing housing is brand new compressor housing is used in very good shape ( I had to re clock it ) I'm guessing it's a hx 40 machined out to fit 62. What I did not like is flange for the exhaust brake  (which is also new) was bolted with too short of bolts, literally 1.5 to 2 threads in. I reused bolts from my old turbo, (not original ) when put my exhaust brake on I changed them, but pretty sure factory ones were still longer then what this turbo came with. Reason I even took them out is I was going to reuse my old flange but decided not to, they look identical. But because of that I found short bolts. Here are some pictures, turbine is considerably bigger and so as compressor. I can only emagine bigger ones.

Edited July 22, 20177 yr by Dieselfuture

Looks good! Look forward to hearing your impression once you get some miles on it!

If you get bitten by the power bug, you may find yourself switching to that adjustable boost elbow in the future....

  On 7/22/2017 at 3:39 AM, trreed said:

If you get bitten by the power bug, you may find yourself switching to that adjustable boost elbow in the future....

I have a boost elbow on my original turbo, I took it off and put it on new one. Also found out that it was turned all the way in and that is probably why my waste gate never worked, I cleaned it few times but since it was not in use it frost up again. This time I turned it out and going to see where waste gate is set at and then I'll turn it in till about 38-40psi and call it a day. 

Oops missed it in the last picture.  I see it now!  That should be a good level.

Which lines do you usually crack open to get truck started, 135? I can never remember @jlbayes @TFaoro @Mopar1973Man @trreed

Getting ready to fire it up, and will it hurt to just run water with no thermostat for now, till I get it running. Maybe even drive around a block few times, then I want to flush it all out, oil and coolant. 

1,3,4 are the easiest to get to.  Water for a bit won't hurt it, when I switched to G05 coolant, I had to flush (fill and run 2-3 miles w/o thermostat) about 5 times before it was all cleaned out

  On 7/22/2017 at 2:50 PM, Dieselfuture said:

usually crack open to get truck started, 135? I can never remember

 

None... I don't have crack any line. Mine will typically fire up after about 15 seconds of cranking. 

 

1,3,4 is typical. If the grid heater was in the road it would be 1,2,3 because the firing order is 1, 5, 3, 6, 2, 4 as you see its every other line in the firing order. Since the grid heater is in the way everyone uses 1,3,4

I'll try without cracking any lines and see what happens, really don't like fuel running down the head on new paint and then for several days you can't tell if you got a leak or its just left over fuel getting hot and pushed out through the nut. So you kept tightening the line and it doesn't need to be. Thanks.

What you can do ease cranking times is hotwire the Fass for about 25-35 seconds to make sure there's plenty of fuel up to the VP and even into whichever line the plungers happen to be on.  Run a jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to pin 87 on the Fass relay harness.

Edited July 22, 20177 yr by trreed

  On 7/22/2017 at 3:08 PM, trreed said:

What you can do ease cranking times is hotwire the Fass for about 25-35 seconds to make sure there's plenty of fuel up to the VP

 

I just bump the start crack the supply line to the VP44 ensure there is fuel to the VP44. Then run 3 starter bumps because the AirDog 150 will push fuel through the entire VP44 pump by 3 bumps. That only leaves pumping the air from the lines. Like I said typically mine will start on its own in 15 seconds without cracking a line. Like here soon I'll be changing injectors again and it will be the same thing just start it up.

Edited July 22, 20177 yr by Mopar1973Man

Well got it running, didn't have luck without cracking lines, did 135. Now I got another problem my quad egt reads 480-500 with truck idling, took probe out of manifold it reads 1800 something. I think it was getting glitches before I did this job so maybe probe is junk. Any ideas if I can reset it?

If you unplug the probe it should read zero. So just replace the probe. 

  On 7/22/2017 at 4:17 PM, Mopar1973Man said:

If you unplug the probe it should read zero. So just replace the probe. 

It reads 32

Ok. So it's 0*C but 32*F is zero for the sensor. Just replace the probe...