Alright I know it's been brought up in past, now that more time gone by I'd like to hear more on ways of balancing tires. Mainly I'm interested in people that use balancing beeds like counteract. I used them in trailer before and honestly couldn't tell you the difference as it never gave me problems before. I also used it in a suburban of some one I know and rode in it with good results. I am now thinking of getting rid of waights on my truck and using them. My few year old wheels are starting to get that aluminum corrosion under waights on wheels so I want to use beeds jus need some more imput. 

 

At least with my BigTex trailer I grease it regularly every year no issues with bearing failure from full hubs nor any issues with grease pushing the rear seal out. As for the RV I've got to hand pack those bearing but always end up with a full can of grease use for all 4 axles that's packing more grease in the hubs as well.

 

As for tire balancing I'm going to just pickup a few boxes of BB's and put in about 6 ounces in to each tire when I replace my tire here soon. Just about down to the wear bars and will be needing good rubber for this coming winter too. 

6 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

As for tire balancing I'm going to just pickup a few boxes of BB's and put in about 6 ounces in to each tire when I replace my tire here soon. Just about down to the wear bars and will be needing good rubber for this coming winter too. 

I would put extra in, counteract site said 6oz for my tires and I had a slight shake once in awhile. I think I have close to 8oz in there now, feels good. 

I've always used the chart from http://www.innovativebalancing.com

 

I've done a couple dozen with the .177 BB's you get from walmart and don't have any complaints.

Just an update. Originally I put 6 oz in then added 1 more and then 1 more, so I now have 8oz and it seems to be working good now. 285/70/17.  Recommended for that size is 6oz. 

Now I just put new tires on my car and used same beads 195/65/15 calls for 4oz, wasn't enough, put one more got better, decided to put one more 6oz total and seems it got worse like it did with 4oz originally. It kinda comes and goes, just wanted to let you guys know these beads don't always work, or I f...ed something up, maybe a bent rim.

 

Edited October 27, 20177 yr by Dieselfuture

Might be the wheel. I just replaced all my oe with new and I am vibration free.

7 minutes ago, dripley said:

Might be the wheel. I just replaced all my oe with new and I am vibration free.

That or it could be an axle shaft, had that happen before. Did everything possible on this van I had still had vibration,  changed cv shaft and it went away. Weird part is it comes and goes, so I kinda think it's beads sticking to tire in one spot. Just wondering if I can put to many beads in and have an opposite affect. 

I'm reviving this thread as I just got some centramatics. My counteract beads do ok on longer hwy runs but on shorter trips and bumpy roads shake still comes and goes. So I got the 300-318 set from hitchsorce as they were cheapest 180. Came with A and B and I'd say 3/16" spacers. So the flat ones fit best in front but I need to use that spacer to bump the rim out. This brings up some questions, obviously these guys been selling it for a long time and I can't find too much negative feedback on these thin spacer. I do have a concern as my wheel no longer is centered by the hub, now the lug nuts center the wheel. How important is it on our trucks. I'm not sure if rims are that tight to the hub anyway to be riding on it. I would think lug nuts is what keeps things centered. Keep in mind I have 3rd gen breaks and 4th gen rims. May fit just fine on stock 2nd gen.

 

Went for a ride yesterday and they definitely helped, but did not completely cure the random shake. I'd say it's 70-80% better now. I'm thinking beads inside tires are fighting the beads in the rings. Maybe I need to pop the bead and vacuume them all out and see what happens, just not feeling like doing that at this time.

I'm still concerned about these spacers on the front, even though they are thin and lugnuts are flush with end of threads, the rim is not seated around the hub. Still having hard time believing rim and hub are that tight to have the weight of the truck on the hubs and not lug nuts.

Any opinions? 

Just noticed looking at first picture, it looks like the spacers been on between rim and hub before, I can see scuff ring on them. Wonder if someone returned them  at one time. 

What I might do with my new Hankook ATm's... I've got two containers full of BB's for an air rifle. I'm going to measure out 4 ounces (using balance beads weight measurements) then dump that amount in each tire and inflate again. 

 

The problem I see is the those balance disc cant allow for that wide tire. So the bead balance at a center line of the rotor. This means if needs more weight on the inside bead it can't give it. Where if the balance material is in the tire it can hunt to the exact spot the weight is needed. It was a member name @Cowboy that did the study work on using normal BB's in a tire. Worked great for larger tire or tires with balance problems. I think his article is in the 12V section.

1 hour ago, Mopar1973Man said:

What I might do with my new Hankook ATm's... I've got two containers full of BB's for an air rifle. I'm going to measure out 4 ounces (using balance beads weight measurements) then dump that amount in each tire and inflate again. 

I heard they rust in time, that's why they push glass ones. 

Any input on rim not being all the way on the hub. I always thought studs is what centers and holds rim straight on our trucks. I know new truck rely on hub to find center and use lug nuts with flat washers not coned like ours. 

Really I only need an 1/8" to clear the rim, I was thinking just having the rim flex these thin disks to the needed curve without using spacers, just not sure if it'll effect anything. Maybe I'll call them, see what they think. 

The only way they could rust is add water to the tire or leave it parked for long time. A rolling rock will gather no moss. 

 

DF,

 

The studs don't hold the vertical wheel load up in shear....  You are ok if you can still torque them properly. 

 

It will take a minute for some people to wrap your head around this concept.  The lugs hold the rim to the hub.  When the torque is correct, the vertical load of the wheel is not held by the lugs(in the vertical sense), but the load is supported by the shear created by the surface of the rim held tightly against the hub face (or the rotor if you have hats etc). 

 

When you design a bolted connection, you design that the bolts don't see a shear load, they will fail.  You design for a compressive load over an area to resist the shear load. 

 

I hope that makes sense...  I can pull some drawings if you need it.

 

HTH

Hag

28 minutes ago, Haggar said:

I hope that makes sense...  I can pull some drawings if you need it.

Clear as mud just kidding, you just confirmed what I was thinking, thank you.

I spoke with centramatic tech, he said as long as I'm grabbing most of the stud threads I'm ok using the spacers and lug nuts should center the wheel. He did mention how lots of people put aftermarket rims that don't even have same hub hole with spacers and get away with it. Not that that's he right thing to do. He also said people complain about balancers not always working on large rims and he can't seem to get the message across that these are designed for a factory set up.

I also said that my truck has 3rd Gen breaks and 4th gen wheels, he said that makes sense, because we usually don't have a problem fitting dodge. 

Guess I'll leave the spacers on for now and see how it goes. With such a small offset I don't think there will be any issues with bearings. And lug nuts do grab all the threads on the stud, right to the very end. I torqued them to 140, that's what I've been doing since I got the truck pretty much. 

Thanks again @Haggar

Well it kept me up last night so I got the wheels off and started looking again. Well I must of been in big hurry to use spacers on front, looking at it again all that's in the way is jb weld they use to seal the pipe with beads. So I used a file and knocked some off to make it as flush as I could without going through to bare metal. Now it's pretty much flush with the rim. Not sure how much you can tell from the pictures but it looks and feels good. Going to try it out this way, makes me way happier not using spacers.