I didnt want to mix up the threads by posting unrelated information so I figured I would start a new one.  This thread is for figuring out what works and what you find your truck likes.  

 

I did some more datalogging as of late and found that a more aggressive timing curve later in the rpm band, say 2500 + rpm, seems to pull harder up top.  Previous I was running tunes that maxed timing at 26*.  I took 2 tunes copied them and ran them back to back on the same stretch of road, same conditions.   I was not using wiretap for this so I will leave those details out

 

First Tune 29* max

Quote

Race 29*
Number of Power Levels	6
RPM Limit	3700
Valet Mode
Maximum Valet Mode Power	35
Timing Parameters
Fuel Load Timing	1
Low PSI Timing Reduct	5
Timing Reduct Scaling	80
LightThrottle Timing Adv	1
Light Throttle Limit	35
Timing Equilzer
1500RPM	16
2000RPM	19
2500RPM	24
3000RPM	27
MAX	29
Boost Level Fueling - CAN Bus
0 PSI	88
1 PSI	90
2 PSI	92
3 PSI	94
4 PSI	98
5 PSI	102
6 PSI	106
7 PSI	110
8 PSI	114
9 PSI	118
10 PSI	122
11 PSI	126
12 PSI	130
13 PSI	134
14 PSI	138
15 PSI	142
16 PSI	146
18 PSI	150
20 PSI	150
22 PSI	150
24 PSI	150
26 PSI	150
28 PSI	150
30+ PSI	150

 

Second Tune 26* max

Quote

race 26*
Number of Power Levels	6
RPM Limit	3700
Valet Mode
Maximum Valet Mode Power	35
Timing Parameters
Fuel Load Timing	1
Low PSI Timing Reduct	5
Timing Reduct Scaling	80
LightThrottle Timing Adv	1
Light Throttle Limit	35
Timing Equilzer
1500RPM	16
2000RPM	19
2500RPM	22
3000RPM	25
MAX	26
Boost Level Fueling - CAN Bus
0 PSI	88
1 PSI	90
2 PSI	92
3 PSI	94
4 PSI	98
5 PSI	102
6 PSI	106
7 PSI	110
8 PSI	114
9 PSI	118
10 PSI	122
11 PSI	126
12 PSI	130
13 PSI	134
14 PSI	138
15 PSI	142
16 PSI	146
18 PSI	150
20 PSI	150
22 PSI	150
24 PSI	150
26 PSI	150
28 PSI	150
30+ PSI	150

 

 

The interesting thing is the tunes are the same except for the timing above 2500 rpm.  If you look on the graph rpms hit that 2500 rpm mark at about line 20-21, each line is ~.3 seconds so 3 lines = 1 second.    You can see where timing jumps and also where boost jumps. 

 

Now keep in mind the graphs are not exact so take them with a grain of salt, but everything appears to show that the tune with higher timing up top gives faster time to 50 mph, and a faster ramp up of boost.  The higher timing tune appeared to reach 50 mph nearly 1 second faster.

 

as always studs are a good idea, but I am fairly sure anyone can run this timing above 2500 rpm.    If people are not blowing their heads off left and right with other tuners then there is no reason why this type of timing curve will hurt with the Quadzilla. 

 

 

Food for thought, open to other thoughts.

I have a 150km drive tomorrow evening and I'm planning on doing some logging on the way there at 365 bar. The wife can take a couple videos in my cracked passenger side mirror (woops) and then Friday or Saturday I'll re-pop a little lower.

Hopefully this week.  We will see how things are going.  Between riding the horse daily and the weather being cold I have had no desire to swap injectors lol

19 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

Hopefully this week.  We will see how things are going.  Between riding the horse daily and the weather being cold I have had no desire to swap injectors lol

 

I hear that... We finally warmed up to -7 °C today. On Saturday morning we went on a road trip, and it was -35°C at home, -37 in the first town we passed. Crazy cold. It's been while since I've experienced that much cold. I took the VW. Couldn't barely build any heat inside. The manual trans groaned every time I stepped on it from the cold gear oil. Brutal.

 

@Me78569 are you still running 330 Bar?

Edited January 2, 20187 yr by kzimmer

yep, next up is stock bar

46 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

Hopefully this week.  We will see how things are going.  Between riding the horse daily and the weather being cold I have had no desire to swap injectors lol

I can't complain, we are in the 20s right now so not much is going on outside. 

Well, still a lot of learning but here's what I know so far.... Less smoke (a lot), a lot more power, idle seems cleaner, starts a little harder (extra couple cranks) but I am in no way saying these are definitive because at the same time I switched to #1 fue and the temps plummeted to up to 25ºf BELOW 0. I am not going to make any set in stone opinions until I can get a full tank of #2 and temps around 30 for a while so it might be a while lol

 

On a side note my 2 injection line is still seeping at the head, I think I'm going to have to take it apart and make sure everything is ok and put it back together

great to hear.  I would love to see some videos when you can.  

8 hours ago, Dodgeih said:

 

On a side note my 2 injection line is still seeping at the head, I think I'm going to have to take it apart and make sure everything is ok and put it back together

I would give it few days and see if it stops, sometimes it's just left over fuel gets warm and pushed out from behind the nut for crossover tube.

Rather common for the injector line to seep for a day or two afterward. If it continues then I would look at the o-rings. So in a week I would clean the head off with some brake clean and compressed air. Then test drive again. look for the moist tubes then deal with those. Could be over / under torqued which is common too. 

4 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Rather common for the injector line to seep for a day or two afterward. If it continues then I would look at the o-rings. So in a week I would clean the head off with some brake clean and compressed air. Then test drive again. look for the moist tubes then deal with those. Could be over / under torqued which is common too. 

 

Dis. I brake clean the snot out of everything and then blast it with an air nozzle.

3 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Rather common for the injector line to seep for a day or two afterward. If it continues then I would look at the o-rings. So in a week I would clean the head off with some brake clean and compressed air. Then test drive again. look for the moist tubes then deal with those. Could be over / under torqued which is common too. 

I think it's stopped.I will check again tomorrow. They are all torqued correctly, even just had my torque wrench cheeked out and its dead on!  Anyway at first it sprayed out over the whole engine and was missing but that's all gone now, just never had one seep out like this I guess.. But other than the hard starts, that may be related to the#1 fuel, everything is great.. I was able to raise my daily tune 10% across the board and have a really high timing curve with no ill effects and practically 0 smoke anywhere even wot and its crazy power... Like break tires loose at 60mph on dry fairly clean concrete..... 

6 minutes ago, Dodgeih said:

I think it's stopped.I will check again tomorrow. They are all torqued correctly, even just had my torque wrench cheeked out and its dead on!  Anyway at first it sprayed out over the whole engine and was missing but that's all gone now, just never had one seep out like this I guess.. But other than the hard starts, that may be related to the#1 fuel, everything is great.. I was able to raise my daily tune 10% across the board and have a really high timing curve with no ill effects and practically 0 smoke anywhere even wot and its crazy power... Like break tires loose at 60mph on dry fairly clean concrete..... 

 

 

Thank you for the update!

Just now, dieselautopower said:

 

 

Thank you for the update!

No problem will keep updated as I learn more.

 

Also should be getting my injectors in the mail to you today! Thanks

17 hours ago, Dodgeih said:

 

On a side note my 2 injection line is still seeping at the head, I think I'm going to have to take it apart and make sure everything is ok and put it back together

FWIW: I have found loosening the blue lock bars, and then tightening down the high pressure line nut first, then the injector, then the blue lock bars. I know it sounds strange, but I've notched that sometimes those lock bars tweek the lines just enough to not get a good seal.

Just got my DAP 7x13 sac 365bar. I might get them installed but it's a bit cold out right now at 60f. More info to come. 

@dirty830 did you say cold at 60ºf? It was 90º colder than that here couple times last week

2 hours ago, pepsi71ocean said:

FWIW: I have found loosening the blue lock bars, and then tightening down the high pressure line nut first, then the injector, then the blue lock bars. I know it sounds strange, but I've notched that sometimes those lock bars tweek the lines just enough to not get a good seal.

I'llcheck it in the morning... Fingers crossed it's dry

Well figure I will share as well.  Just got these today which is right at the 4 week mark.  

Bodies seem a bit used but that's expected.  No documentation nor marking on the package.

 

 

6 hours ago, dirty830 said:

Just got my DAP 7x13 sac 365bar.

 

Let me know how they work for you, I'm at the same setup. I'm repopping tomorrow to 340ish. I am curious how they start in the cold. I wish you were in a colder climate so we could compare.

Edited January 5, 20187 yr by kzimmer
Typo

the stock bar 7 x .012's are going in tomorrow after I get off work.  then the 330's I have are going back to DAP and getting redone at 350 bar.  

 

I am gonna hate swapping injectors before too long

10 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

I am gonna hate swapping injectors before too long

 

Don't I know... Add in nozzle changes, cleaning, and amature pop testing (I'm a noob so it takes a while)... FFS. 340 bar better be good, lol. First thing tomorrow I'm hitting a stretch of highway and doing some data logging before I change out.