I didnt want to mix up the threads by posting unrelated information so I figured I would start a new one.  This thread is for figuring out what works and what you find your truck likes.  

 

I did some more datalogging as of late and found that a more aggressive timing curve later in the rpm band, say 2500 + rpm, seems to pull harder up top.  Previous I was running tunes that maxed timing at 26*.  I took 2 tunes copied them and ran them back to back on the same stretch of road, same conditions.   I was not using wiretap for this so I will leave those details out

 

First Tune 29* max

Quote

Race 29*
Number of Power Levels	6
RPM Limit	3700
Valet Mode
Maximum Valet Mode Power	35
Timing Parameters
Fuel Load Timing	1
Low PSI Timing Reduct	5
Timing Reduct Scaling	80
LightThrottle Timing Adv	1
Light Throttle Limit	35
Timing Equilzer
1500RPM	16
2000RPM	19
2500RPM	24
3000RPM	27
MAX	29
Boost Level Fueling - CAN Bus
0 PSI	88
1 PSI	90
2 PSI	92
3 PSI	94
4 PSI	98
5 PSI	102
6 PSI	106
7 PSI	110
8 PSI	114
9 PSI	118
10 PSI	122
11 PSI	126
12 PSI	130
13 PSI	134
14 PSI	138
15 PSI	142
16 PSI	146
18 PSI	150
20 PSI	150
22 PSI	150
24 PSI	150
26 PSI	150
28 PSI	150
30+ PSI	150

 

Second Tune 26* max

Quote

race 26*
Number of Power Levels	6
RPM Limit	3700
Valet Mode
Maximum Valet Mode Power	35
Timing Parameters
Fuel Load Timing	1
Low PSI Timing Reduct	5
Timing Reduct Scaling	80
LightThrottle Timing Adv	1
Light Throttle Limit	35
Timing Equilzer
1500RPM	16
2000RPM	19
2500RPM	22
3000RPM	25
MAX	26
Boost Level Fueling - CAN Bus
0 PSI	88
1 PSI	90
2 PSI	92
3 PSI	94
4 PSI	98
5 PSI	102
6 PSI	106
7 PSI	110
8 PSI	114
9 PSI	118
10 PSI	122
11 PSI	126
12 PSI	130
13 PSI	134
14 PSI	138
15 PSI	142
16 PSI	146
18 PSI	150
20 PSI	150
22 PSI	150
24 PSI	150
26 PSI	150
28 PSI	150
30+ PSI	150

 

 

The interesting thing is the tunes are the same except for the timing above 2500 rpm.  If you look on the graph rpms hit that 2500 rpm mark at about line 20-21, each line is ~.3 seconds so 3 lines = 1 second.    You can see where timing jumps and also where boost jumps. 

 

Now keep in mind the graphs are not exact so take them with a grain of salt, but everything appears to show that the tune with higher timing up top gives faster time to 50 mph, and a faster ramp up of boost.  The higher timing tune appeared to reach 50 mph nearly 1 second faster.

 

as always studs are a good idea, but I am fairly sure anyone can run this timing above 2500 rpm.    If people are not blowing their heads off left and right with other tuners then there is no reason why this type of timing curve will hurt with the Quadzilla. 

 

 

Food for thought, open to other thoughts.

yep crossover remover,  you thread it onto the end and it will hold the crossover tube out.  

I saw it threaded onto them but couldn't come up with how I could use it I guess lol... Anyway I did a thing tonight, 0-100 on my daily tune with no wire tap... Couldn't see smoke output but its next to nothing I imagine... Here's a video of my dash and a data log... (all done on closed course....... Of course...lol)

 

daily0-100.csv

Here's the log

Scratch that.

Edited January 10, 20187 yr by jlbayes

9 hours ago, Dodgeih said:

I saw it threaded onto them but couldn't come up with how I could use it I guess lol... Anyway I did a thing tonight, 0-100 on my daily tune with no wire tap... Couldn't see smoke output but its next to nothing I imagine... Here's a video of my dash and a data log... (all done on closed course....... Of course...lol)

 

daily0-100.csv

Is that a nv4500 or a nv5600?

4500

So the fuel leak seems to have stopped... But here's my current issue after injector install... Hard starts.. If it sits More than 5 minutes it cranks a lot. Then it just fires up, usually. Sometimes after sitting a long time up to 30 seconds of cranking.then it just fires up and runs great. Shut it off and it will fire right back up no issue. I noticed the return tee at the back of the block was damp with fuel I was thinking this could very well be my issue. Nose up it starts really hard, nose down it is kinda hard. But here is the kicker... I feel like the other day my oil level way halfway in between add and full and today it is exactly at full, no signs of water and doesn't smell like fuel so maybe I checked it right after I shut it off or added and forgot I added... Thoughts? 

2 hours ago, Dodgeih said:

I feel like the other day my oil level way halfway in between add and full and today it is exactly at full, no signs of water and doesn't smell like fuel so maybe I checked it right after I shut it off or added and forgot I added...

 

Keep an eye on the oil level. See if it continues to grow and if the oil pressure drops on you. 

Mine had the same symptoms u describe and I was chasing it for awhile but. I think it was from me doing a bad valve lash job my first time. It ran fine when warm, basically what u said to a T minus I never put it on a hill. I also wanna say it started better with the drive pressure leak fixed, but I may be getting that and the valves mixed up in my head. I fixed both problems back to back.

Being with all the miles I'm doing I'm going to redo the valve lash my truck soon. Trying to scrape up every bit of efficiency I can get out of my truck. Even change the BHAF today in hopes of just a wee bit less restriction of airflow. Then finding the loose ground on my Quadzilla and the weird issues it created. 

Edited January 14, 20187 yr by Mopar1973Man

@Mopar1973Man think that is what was causing all your issues with missing and stuff that you and Nick were trying to constantly track down? 

2 hours ago, rogerash0 said:

Mine had the same symptoms u describe and I was chasing it for awhile but. I think it was from me doing a bad valve lash job my first time. It ran fine when warm, basically what u said to a T minus I never put it on a hill. I also wanna say it started better with the drive pressure leak fixed, but I may be getting that and the valves mixed up in my head. I fixed both problems back to back.

I just re did my valve lash. Took my time as double checked it.. They are spot on.. I just replaced the rubber seals in the return tee... Man that is a pisspoor design! 

Pretty sure. I found a few valves on the tight side dead cold. I admit I did the lash beforehand but in a rush so I grab a torque wrench and just set my torque on the jamb nuts and threw the cover on which in turn made a few tight in the lash setting. Last time I double checked my gap after torquing. 

34 minutes ago, Dodgeih said:

I just replaced the rubber seals in the return tee... Man that is a pisspoor design! 

 

330k miles and never leaked. 

Mine have been replaced 2 times under my watch now....

Btw.. #2 still leaking.......

I rly thought I did my valve lash spot on the first time so I never thought it was the problem but after the second go around all of a sudden no hard start.

 

Where did you get your rubber seals for that T and what did u pay? They are the only thing I haven't replaced... But mine are ok for now. But I need to do em.

For #2 still leaking loosen all blue line clamps and loosen injector hold downs. Loosen line, wiggle injector with a wrench in the top of it as u snug the line good. Tighten injector hold downs. Tighten line rest of the way . Then do the blue line clamps. In all seriousness I bet u already knew that .

Edited January 15, 20187 yr by rogerash0

17 minutes ago, rogerash0 said:

Where did you get your rubber seals for that T and what did u pay?

I got mine at Cummins at $10 a piece  I don't see why a guy can't take a piece of fuel hose that size and cut little pieces at right length 

I'll just leave this here.  Went for a quick spin and the three tunes I built need a good bit of work so no data or videos for now.  More to come hopefully tomorrow.

 

 

48 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

I got mine at Cummins at $10 a piece  I don't see why a guy can't take a piece of fuel hose that size and cut little pieces at right length 

 

1 hour ago, rogerash0 said:

Where did you get your rubber seals for that T and what did u pay? They are the only thing I haven't replaced... But mine are ok for now. But I need to do em.

First time I got them from case ih for about $6 each, tonight I made them from 1/4"fuel line. Worked great

1 hour ago, rogerash0 said:

For #2 still leaking loosen all blue line clamps and loosen injector hold downs. Loosen line, wiggle injector with a wrench in the top of it as u snug the line good. Tighten injector hold downs. Tighten line rest of the way . Then do the blue line clamps. In all seriousness I bet u already knew that .

I have tried everything but a new o ring... I had a time getting this one to seal after rebuild as well.. I have a feeling the line is bad.. There is a tiny bit of pitting on the end of the line, I even tried sanding it with 800-1000-1500 sand paper... I have tried about a dozen times or more.. On the look for a line. I think @dieselautopower is sending me new o rings soon.... I hope

9 minutes ago, Carbur8tr said:

I'll just leave this here.  Went for a quick spin and the three tunes I built need a good bit of work so no data or videos for now.  More to come hopefully tomorrow.

 

 

Looks good! Looks like a very slight haze??  Mine are about a third the amount of haze compared to my 6x.013"

im only on page 7 as ive just found this thread.  Ive been quiet for a while now.  I have  fuel boss mechanical pump setup i have a quad and a set of dap 7x11 sac. injectors and quad are great. truck starts way smoother and idles quieter.  I have the 6 speed and i have an offidle problem that i nearly have dialed out with the quad. It involves fueling and timing adjustments. i have noticed however that it idles most of the time at 15.5 deg timing. the few times it drops to 11.6 it drives and takes off way smoother and antistall works great.  hpw do i adjust idle timing?  im interested in some testing and whatnot but need help with a dual disk clutch and headstuds for the project.

Sounds like u should make your own thread. I would think a sensor is cranky if your seeing that much variation of timing at idle. I went thru and replaced em all with Wells sensors , made in the USA from AutoZone. Their documentary of their apps sensor on YouTube made me a fan.

 

I heard the T seals were pricey, that's why I asked. I'm surprised 1/4" line worked.

 

On the leaky #2, do u torque it to spec or make it tight/hella tight? I am a fan of always using new orings. I'd be curious to hear if they fix your problem. I even bought new connector tubes a second time after having bought new ones originally... And of course they were the same. Ddp originally then bd for cheaper. I had the same problem. Did the same thing, sanding it down. Overall found it critical to snug the line first then do injector then finish snugging.

Edited January 15, 20187 yr by rogerash0

I have tried every combination of to spec, a tad over, a lot over, along with different orders of tightening... I didn't change o rings because I have a cr head with custom tubes and the o rings that came with injectors are for vp tubes... But they are also only 5k miles old and I inspected closely and they looked great, then put a dap of oil on before I popped them in....