Hey guys,

 

I cant find the thread I was reading where you all were talking about the PSG being the actual 65HP limitation /w the smarty or non wire tap programmers on the vp44. I got interested and I found a lot of info out there, primarily some french guys where I used google to translate. showing clips to read the 24 series eeprom with 3M clips. They eventually caught on that you could put 5v to one of the legs on the chip and make it no longer read-only (this is common, and I suspected it). Because their forum is invite only I couldnt download their diagrams or documentation they created. I also found some Indian website that showed how to read/write to the PSG /w an arduino, including wiring diagrams and so fourth. I cant find that in my history now either, but its in there somewhere. Anyways, here's the french lads that tackle read/write to the PSG. Every time they say "code", i think they mean "encrypted". I tried to join the French board but it seems to be invite only.

 

https://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=auto&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.tlemcen-electronic.com%2Fforum%2Fshowthread.php%3Ft%3D12157

 

So bottom line is, I think we could read & write from the eeprom. The question is who is going to modify the code. I know somebody was saying it was encrypted, and that wouldnt surprise me, but it sounded like the french lads were pulling it encrypted. If we could find out what it's encrypted with, and we rented some Amazon AWS servers, run a linux shell to brute force it or rainbow table it, whatever it be. I have to guess that 1998 encryption schemes would be very crackable these days. The Geforce 1080 is no joke /w 2x the power of the 980 and half the power consumption. I saw 3M connectors to read from it without taking it off the board. It sounds like they wrote to it by enabling 5v on the correct pin/leg of the chip (I dont know which exactly b/c I couldnt get to their attachments), but soldering a new one on /w a fresh flash is something I imagine could be more convenient. I did come across pin diagrams for the chip on either their site or another. I dont know if you'd have to take the 5v away from it after the write, but by the way they talked it didnt sound like it. Hard to tell through translation, though.

 

Other interesting links:
https://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=de&u=http://www.vp44diesel.de/de/pumpen-vp44-psg-16&prev=search

http://codecard.eu/carprog/software/by-obdii-for-opel-psg16-diesel-pump-read/repair-mileage-read-pin-reset-ecu/prod_375.html

I requested an invite code, see post #6 here http://mhhauto.com/Thread-zafira-pump-psg16-replacement-and-programming

Cheapest place I have seen carprog http://www.ecutool.com/CARPROG-FULL-with-all-Softwares-Activated-and-all-21-Adapters_8243.html#5

 

Essentially I recently became knee deep in this hobby. I have a 98.5 24v /w D&J motor built to 700hp spec /w CNC'd head on intake & exhaust, 62/68/0.80 + S475/96/1.32 twins, currently running 50hp inectors /w new Edge Juice Comp with smarty SO3 on the side. I have 120hp DDP injectors next to me that just got backfrom warranty, which Lenny looked at personally. The first time around Brian handled it. I've spent a lot of time fixing drive pressure and boost pressure leaks, I think they are 99% sorted based on the performance I'm feeling. I need to do another boost test leak. More on things: 5" down pipe, mishi rad & intercooler, banks monster intake, blah blah. Still only seeing 43lbs of boost. Without the wiretap I only saw 28 psi max on a brand new Industrial Injection VP44. After putting my old pump back on, that is wiretapped, I once again saw 43psi. This is what enlightened me to the necessity of having proper fueling. I'm so far into this VP44 platform now that I wont be switching to CP3, unfortunately. Got it all mated to a Firepunk Comp I in a ext cab LB chassis. I paid some guys to work on my truck and was so let down that I learned the hard way, the only way is to do it yourself.

 

I come from a background of computers and dirt bikes. My dad was a firmware/software/hardware engineer who came to the US from Australia. Due to him being an alcoholic I wouldnt waste my time asking for his advice, but once upon a time he was very smart knowing low level stuff like assembly (programming), layers to protocols, making PCB's, soldering them all up, programming them all up, etc. Credit card readers & bill acceptors seemed to be his bread and butter primarily. Also some assembly line stuff like productivity displays, etc. For roughly 20 yrs he worked solo as his own contractor. 

 

Perhaps this could lead somewhere? I'm considering sending back my II VP44 for a hodrod pump, seeing as my tapped reman VP44 that came on the truck is running just as good & better with the wiretap. I had previously bought the new std output VP44 from II as a method to troubleshoot a hard-start condition when (almost) eveyrthing else had been tried. Turned out to be a drive pressure leak @ the 90* hot pipe connecting the turbos -- I fixed it, and the truck starts as it should.

Sorry if this is in the wrong section.

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks a ton guys. To take the slack out do I pull the apps cover and adjust it in there somehow? Last I thought the cable terminated like any other dirt bike throttle cable and just had slack. I don't remember a set screw to hold the cable to adjust it and take out the slack.

 

Also I just got off the phone with a Phil at DPC and he says my converter needs restalled. Firepunk told me it was slightly lower than stock stall speed, I relayed that to Phil and told him my old engine setup, how it seems to bog and make the metallic sound on lockup, after the D&J engine went in, and he says the metallic sound might be a loose bolt but the converter with my 62mm SXE and S475 needs restalled back to stock. Does this sound right? I asked why they would have shipped it with lower than stock stall speed and his explanation didn't exactly resonate with me. He said the engine would come on sooner with lower stall speed, but no hard numbers, and I dont see why my current setup would need something different?

Edited August 22, 20177 yr by rogerash0

There is a white plastic retainer on the back side of the apps bracket, towards the bulk head. Slide it towards the drivers side fender to unlock it.

 

Lower stall puts more load on the engine sooner and helps smaller chargers come on faster. Larger turbos like a bit more stall to help get shaft speed up. Stock or slightly lower than stock stall should work just fine for what you have imo. Though stall speeds between converter guys is apples to onions most times lol.

First thing I did was take that white clip out and adjust the cable. Went max distance both ways. Seemed to make no difference at all. Firepunk told me it would make the truck shift higher or lower. All it did was make the downshift to second gear nasty, so I set it back to where it was somewhere around the middle. I had used a paint marker.

 

Putting load on sooner to help build boost sooner makes sense. Since my compounds are pretty small, esp the s300, I would think the slightly lower than stock would still be optimal. You're saying it's a matter of opinion, so I would think it's ok. Pulling the tq converter out and going without a truck for awhile may not be worth the effort right now while the wife is gone and I don't have a second vehicle. At the same time I think the metallic sound and bog says there's something wrong with it.

Edited August 23, 20177 yr by rogerash0

Would it be a good idea to store my new II vp44 that I'm not using with it full of diesel?

Diesel with heavy mix of 2 stroke,  or just motor oil, you can maybe put some motor oil in and move it around so everything gets coated in it and dump it out, plug holes from dirt and moisture. When ready to use flush it out with diesel or it would probably be fine the way it is with oil resedue. 

Cool thx man

On 8/21/2017 at 5:29 PM, rogerash0 said:

Do you know where the voltage regulator for the tranny and resister mod would exist? I tried an external voltage regulator when I was having alternator issues but pulled it back out.

 

With those brown wires tapped, is a switch that hooks them up all I need to have the lockup command capability? Im interested in it because, for example, today my engine was up to normal operating temp, and I went to pass without realizing I was at 48-49mph, and as soon as I stepped into it I hit 50 mph, TC locked, and the truck bogged like hell. Putting out a big cloud of black, with the 50hp injectors Edge on lvl 7 lowend on 3 timing on 2. That type of thing drives me nuts. It also bogs in third with OD off when it engages at 30mph. Surely it shouldnt bog as it does..

 

All this wiring non-sense started as I cleaned the cluster **** of wires above the trans, trying to make sure my TV cable is set right. It was bent around pretty bad in a ziptied wire bundle, but the truck still drives the same with the mess undone. Im convinced the TV isnt set right. I took pics of the cable & TV lever down by the trans with the pedal floored and at resting positon. I dont know if that would be helpful to show you guys?

 

Basically I still had half an inch of throw in the TV lever/cable with the pedal to the floor. I do have a floor mat in the truck, but thats it. So my next step was to pull the APPS cover and try to  adjust the cable. Am I on the right track there? I feel so clueless sometimes :\

 

Ultimately my truck stack shifts 3rd and fourth. When It goes into third it seldom rests in third for more than a brief moment without going into fourth.

From my notes, roughly a year ago:

12mph - 2nd gear shift

21mph - 3rd gear shift

26 mph - 4th gear shift

I can coast down to 20mph and the truck remains in 4th gear.

 

After fixing a ton of stuff on the truck, sensors blah blah, today it did:

12mph - 2nd gear shift

24mph - 3rd gear shift

26 mph - 4th gear shift

 

I think if I could get it to rev out in the gears more, my smoke problem would be considerably less. All the time Im crusing in 4th gear at low RPMs and I gotta put my foot 1/2 way into it to make it downshift, and it goes right to 2nd gear.

 

Thanks guys

It sounds like you're feeling the TCC lockup after the 2-3 shift and confusing that with the 3-4 shift. It is normal for the converter to lock shortly after the 2-3 shift, especially if you're under acceleration. The 24 valve transmission programming really leaves a lot to be desired...

 

Setting the TV cable is easy. Set it so that your WOT 1-2 shift occurs at appx. 2800 rpm. If it shifts earlier, tighten the cable, if it shifts later, loosen the cable.

 

I don't know what all was done in your valve body, but I don't run any voltage regulators or resistors in my setups. They are not needed if you deal with governor pressure correctly.

 

If you're running twins with a 62mm top turbo, you'll definitely need a fairly loose converter. Phil is right, you need a restall if it is lower than stock. I would go with stock stall at a minimum, with a slightly higher stall speed being ideal.

On 8/22/2017 at 4:21 PM, rogerash0 said:

Thanks a ton guys. To take the slack out do I pull the apps cover and adjust it in there somehow? Last I thought the cable terminated like any other dirt bike throttle cable and just had slack. I don't remember a set screw to hold the cable to adjust it and take out the slack.

 

Also I just got off the phone with a Phil at DPC and he says my converter needs restalled. Firepunk told me it was slightly lower than stock stall speed, I relayed that to Phil and told him my old engine setup, how it seems to bog and make the metallic sound on lockup, after the D&J engine went in, and he says the metallic sound might be a loose bolt but the converter with my 62mm SXE and S475 needs restalled back to stock. Does this sound right? I asked why they would have shipped it with lower than stock stall speed and his explanation didn't exactly resonate with me. He said the engine would come on sooner with lower stall speed, but no hard numbers, and I dont see why my current setup would need something different?

 

I had that same problem with my 15 blade low stall triple disc from DPC, metallic sound in lockup only with lower rpms. I had Phil restall mine to stock stall 17 blade, it helped. Transmission hangs gears longer which I like. Then I swapped out my 100hp SACs for 50hp SACs and the metallic sound in lockup is much less. Keeping the rpms up helps a lot. So now with a higher stall converter and smaller injectors I can put my foot in the throttle to keep rpms and turbo flow up, smoke is very minimal and the truck shifts in higher rpms so lockup doesnt bog everything.

What would be causing a metallic sound in the converter? Seems weird it lessend with a more stock stall and smaller injectors. 

Sorry I didnt see your replies guys. I thought I got emails / notifications. I wasnt checking the board regularly.  So a fairly loose converter is a higher than stock stall speed? The metallic sound is worrisome.

Does anyone know where to get the plate covers for the TC port window & the barring hole? Im missing both. Somehow two bolt holes on the TC port window are stripped...

 

Does the higher than stock stall speed make the tranny hang gears out longer?

 

I'll put it back on my radar to have him restall it... just gotta find a way to work, this is my daily and my wife is away for a few more months in tech school.

 

The TC cable adjustment seems to have a marginal effect at best :\

Also, is it normal for my max boost to be 43psi @ 32degs *F when yesterday it was 38psi @ 62 or 65degs*F? I was either in error and not at top gear with TC locked when I saw 38 psi, and thought I was, or I truly gained 5psi with the temperature loss. I ran the truck out several times and was convinced I was at a boost loss /w 38psi being max with these 62/68 + S475 compounds. I thought 43 psi was low to begin with. (but I have the bar and plate intercooler, stg2 head porting + intake plenum, 4" banks boost tube and elbow, 1.32 & .80 exhaust housings on, 5" downpipe, 5" exhaust, so I was trying to keep boost numbers lower for the sake of the motor).

 

Also I double checked my valve lash, reset everything having only had done it once before..  and the belt was previously slipping when I turned the alternator nut. So I bought a new belt, cleaned all the pullys, put it on, it now turns the motor over when I turn the alt nut, and the truck is running much stronger with less smoke. Definitely more low end power. Starts better too.

 

I was still only seeing 38psi max at WOT with the valves/belt done, which was previously 42psi, and so I checked for boost leaks very thoroughly and couldnt find any even with friends looking and a few lights..... however we cant see or spray the bottom of the billet intake plenum with soapy water, and I believe it to be prone to leaking there due to maybe 1/4" of surface area for it to seal in many parts -- but now today with the temp down to 30-35*F its getting 43psi max @ WOT all of a sudden, and all that changed was the air temp. Seems like thats a bit big of a gain from just the air temp. Has me a little puzzled.

Also I tested /w no air filter on today, on the hwy running it out to around 100mph, and I gained 1 psi of boost at WOT in top gear /w TC locked. I assume thats pretty optimal to only lose 1 psi /w the filter on (?).

Also if any one could help me find the Edge low-end fueling chart with the %'s, boost levels, and so on I would appreciate it. I looked and looked, and cant find it. Moparman has posted it before.

Edited October 2, 20177 yr by rogerash0

Also, I took off the 35's and put on some "stock" 3rd gen 17's, and gained an absolute ton of lowend back. The motor rpms spin up so much faster its incredible. Gets right to 1600rpms when the powerband starts to come in right away off idle.

On 9/4/2017 at 1:23 AM, Dynamic said:

It sounds like you're feeling the TCC lockup after the 2-3 shift and confusing that with the 3-4 shift. It is normal for the converter to lock shortly after the 2-3 shift, especially if you're under acceleration. The 24 valve transmission programming really leaves a lot to be desired...

 

Setting the TV cable is easy. Set it so that your WOT 1-2 shift occurs at appx. 2800 rpm. If it shifts earlier, tighten the cable, if it shifts later, loosen the cable.

 

I don't know what all was done in your valve body, but I don't run any voltage regulators or resistors in my setups. They are not needed if you deal with governor pressure correctly.

 

If you're running twins with a 62mm top turbo, you'll definitely need a fairly loose converter. Phil is right, you need a restall if it is lower than stock. I would go with stock stall at a minimum, with a slightly higher stall speed being ideal.

My truck stacks shifts like this as well. I have hit O/D off at 30 mph and felt it shifting. 

I'm curious if  @rogerash0 has tried manually shifting the valve body. I have started doing this and have zero smoke now. Even at 25mph the truck drives around in 3rd, unless I put it in "2".

I should mention that my TV cable is set so that the TV lever moved with the engine rpm, not with lever movement. Even so range of motion is still limited by the Apps sensor, not the TV lever reaching 100%

Edited October 3, 20177 yr by pepsi71ocean

I didnt think it would leave 1st gear in "1" when shifted manually. I can give it a go. As for how the TV lever is set on your truck Im confused. I dont even think mine is set right, I wasnt getting full swing of the lever with the pedal floored. Im going to stop by Firepunk on my way to Virginia here in a month and hopefully they can both help and educate me.

A loose converter can make it feel like the shifts are late as it is just spinning the converter vs. transferring power through the transmission.

9 hours ago, rogerash0 said:

I didnt think it would leave 1st gear in "1" when shifted manually. I can give it a go. As for how the TV lever is set on your truck Im confused. I dont even think mine is set right, I wasnt getting full swing of the lever with the pedal floored. Im going to stop by Firepunk on my way to Virginia here in a month and hopefully they can both help and educate me.

 

I've never had issues with that shifting too soon. But like when I'm traveling around at 25-30 mph I can downshift into "2" when towing and have no issues with spool up or smoke control. But I believe and @Dynamic could confirm that leaving the O/D button locks out 4th completly, and thus the truck drives around in 3rd. This is what my truck does. 

 

When empty i was leaving it in drive and the truck would run around unlocked in 3rd even down into the 25mph range. Which is why I had smoke issues, like you.

 

54 minutes ago, jlbayes said:

A loose converter can make it feel like the shifts are late as it is just spinning the converter vs. transferring power through the transmission.

 

This is true.  But even closer to stock I think is only in the 2,100 rpm range?

Yes, the "OD" button in, in the "OFF" position will prevent a 3-4 upshift.

 

A looser converter would make HUGE difference for you. It is WAY too tight...

Im going to re-read this a couple times to get a better grasp on it all. So my torque converter is a lot to blame for the  early up shifts? Mine will be in 4th gear still at 25 mph probably, it takes quite a bit to get it to finally down shift, and when it does it goes straight to 2nd gear.

 

It stack shifts thru third gear on the upshift right into fourth probably 95% of the time. Theres been a couple times it pulls 3rd gear out and boy is it nice. Now wide open throttle it wont stack the shift -- I dont think -- but daily driving yes.

Im just wondering I suppose why my TC is too tight when I ordered a Comp I from Firepunk. I was thinking springs in the valve body and/or pressure screws needed adjusted to fix my early up shifts.. 

 

I read Dave Goerend's website with the FAQ about the torque converter, efficiency, stall speeds and such, but I still overall dont really have my head wrapped around what exactly a looser converter will do and how it'll fix my shifting problem(s).

When you get a free second. Go out and brake torque the truck. Watch what the tach goes to. I haven't experienced a truck yet stack the shifts with a tight converter. I have however experienced one that will stack the shifts with the tv cable not adjusted correctly. 

34 minutes ago, rogerash0 said:

Im going to re-read this a couple times to get a better grasp on it all. So my torque converter is a lot to blame for the  early up shifts? Mine will be in 4th gear still at 25 mph probably, it takes quite a bit to get it to finally down shift, and when it does it goes straight to 2nd gear.

 

It stack shifts thru third gear on the upshift right into fourth probably 95% of the time. Theres been a couple times it pulls 3rd gear out and boy is it nice. Now wide open throttle it wont stack the shift -- I dont think -- but daily driving yes.

Im just wondering I suppose why my TC is too tight when I ordered a Comp I from Firepunk. I was thinking springs in the valve body and/or pressure screws needed adjusted to fix my early up shifts.. 

 

I read Dave Goerend's website with the FAQ about the torque converter, efficiency, stall speeds and such, but I still overall dont really have my head wrapped around what exactly a looser converter will do and how it'll fix my shifting problem(s).

At what RPM is your WOT 1-2 upshift?

On 10/3/2017 at 2:24 PM, rogerash0 said:

Im going to re-read this a couple times to get a better grasp on it all. So my torque converter is a lot to blame for the  early up shifts? Mine will be in 4th gear still at 25 mph probably, it takes quite a bit to get it to finally down shift, and when it does it goes straight to 2nd gear.

 

It stack shifts thru third gear on the upshift right into fourth probably 95% of the time. Theres been a couple times it pulls 3rd gear out and boy is it nice. Now wide open throttle it wont stack the shift -- I dont think -- but daily driving yes.

Im just wondering I suppose why my TC is too tight when I ordered a Comp I from Firepunk. I was thinking springs in the valve body and/or pressure screws needed adjusted to fix my early up shifts.. 

 

I read Dave Goerend's website with the FAQ about the torque converter, efficiency, stall speeds and such, but I still overall dont really have my head wrapped around what exactly a looser converter will do and how it'll fix my shifting problem(s).

 

Your truck is doing the exact same thing that my built auto does. I have to constantly shift the truck manually in order to keep smoking under control at 30/35 mph when I feel it should be in 3rd or even 2nd.

I don't exactly buy the the tight torque converter theory, mainly because I fail to see the reason for the truck to run around in 4th gear at 30

And despite this, It will eschew my smarty testing. 

Edited October 5, 20177 yr by pepsi71ocean