I swapped a 02 Cummins into my F250. Mods are, fummins twin turbo kit, 125 DDP injectors, new springs, and arp studs. Also new VP 44 SO pump. Tunning is by quadzilla, but no custom tunes yet. The motor came out of a manual transmission truck, so I sent the ECM off to be reprogrammed for an automatic because of a massive lope.  When I got it back, the lope was cured and it idle ok. When I drive the truck, it will only get to 1850 RPM and no farther. Acts like it has a governor on it. I purchased an automatic apps sensor and did the relearn on it and no help. Any suggestions???

Edited September 3, 20177 yr by mossyoak71
Wording

Go with VCO nozzles.  If you want more power just stepup the hole size.  go with not less than 7 x .010's 

So I just got my computer back from Bob Wagner @smartysmartphones.com. He bench flashed it to an auto calibration for me and now I'm having the same problem as @mossyoak71 with the 1850 limit. I just started it the one time to test it but now I can't test it again because I have my hydraulic system out while I wait for my orbital valve input column. I'd like to add the wire while I wait from pin 6 at the ecm to my nsbu so the ecm sees ground in park but the logic of my nsbu switch doesn't have a condition that is ground only in park. Will it matter if the ecm sees ground in drive also? Does anyone have a logic chart for the nsbu on a 47?

Edited October 11, 20177 yr by Scottfunk

6 hours ago, Scottfunk said:

So I just got my computer back from Bob Wagner @smartysmartphones.com. He bench flashed it to an auto calibration for me and now I'm having the same problem as @mossyoak71 with the 1850 limit. I just started it the one time to test it but now I can't test it again because I have my hydraulic system out while I wait for my orbital valve input column. I'd like to add the wire while I wait from pin 6 at the ecm to my nsbu so the ecm sees ground in park but the logic of my nsbu switch doesn't have a condition that is ground only in park. Will it matter if the ecm sees ground in drive also? Does anyone have a logic chart for the nsbu on a 47?

I'm afraid you will need a PCM to remedy this situation. The PCM has to see ground whenever it is not in park. The ECM doesn't see the ground, it just gets a signal from the PCM saying all is clear. 

Well I've had alot going on so I haven't been on here. I ordered some 7x.011 DAP vco injectors on black Friday. Hope that makes a difference. But I also found 9 of the 12 exhaust valve stem seals were trashed. I checked them all including the intakes, and none of them were trashed. I changed them before I installed the engine. Could it be that they were brittle from sitting on a shelf to Long? Never have I had this happen. Any thoughts as why? Also Scottfunk, did you get yours straighten out?

Edited November 28, 20177 yr by mossyoak71
Grammar

Not exactly mossyoak71 . It's better by far but I still have to pop it out of gear if I'm stopping for more than just a second. I've learned to leave lots of space in front of me and I just creep while waiting for lights to change. It's not bad once you get used to it, it's just that I'm a perfectionist and it's far from perfect. The problem, I believe, is the stall rate on the torque converter. If I ever have to pull the tranny for any reason I'll probably swap it out. Even with the auto pcm it still wants to fuel up when I stop. Slow is fine, 2 mph no problem. Stop not so much. I've been daily driving it now for over a month and I love it. I still have a list of things that need done because I have a job, wife, and kids (that I want to keep), but like I said I'm a perfectionist so it'll probably never be "finished" just in a perpetual state of upgrade. Next on the list is emissions testing so I can get plates on her. And when it's too dark and cold to work outside I'm working on a climate control system that operates on a touch screen and requires no vacuum. I'll post it up when I have it running. Only time I ever saw intake valve seals like that was an old 327 I found sitting out in a field for "over 20 years" the old boy claimed. I'm guessing these weren't sitting quite that long.

10 hours ago, mossyoak71 said:

Any thoughts as why?

In my case it was wore out valve guides

Also could be clearance issue if you have a bigger cam or did some mods

Edited November 28, 20177 yr by Dieselfuture

So I received my injectors in the mail, and there seems to be a discrepancy. The package says 7x.011 but engraved on the side of the injectors says 7x.012. I'm ok with them, but will they be streetable. 

Great thread... thanks for sharing! 

 

Little off topic and forgive me for hijacking this thread but I've been searching for a long time and this thread is the closest thing I've found to my question.. 

 

Can anyone confirm that a quadzilla will work without the dodge pcm wired in?

 

I'm swapping a 01 24v 6 speed into 92 f350 and wondering if the pcm is needed... I do have it with all the wiring... just would rather not add it if it isn't needed... 

 

Thanks  :)

 

 

 

 

4 hours ago, GoodB0Y said:

Great thread... thanks for sharing! 

 

Little off topic and forgive me for hijacking this thread but I've been searching for a long time and this thread is the closest thing I've found to my question.. 

 

Can anyone confirm that a quadzilla will work without the dodge pcm wired in?

 

I'm swapping a 01 24v 6 speed into 92 f350 and wondering if the pcm is needed... I do have it with all the wiring... just would rather not add it if it isn't needed... 

 

Thanks 

 

 

 

 

It will work. The only reason I had to use a pcm was for the ground signal. The quad only manipulates the ecm. 

Quick question. 

 

Why use an Auto ECM with a Ford Trans?

 

I ask because I'm tuning for a guy with a similar truck, but he's using a 04.5 motor. He had the ECM flashed from auto to manual to use with the Ford trans. 

1 hour ago, AH64ID said:

Quick question. 

 

Why use an Auto ECM with a Ford Trans?

 

I ask because I'm tuning for a guy with a similar truck, but he's using a 04.5 motor. He had the ECM flashed from auto to manual to use with the Ford trans. 

Idle and fueling. Also on my engine it needed to see the ground from the pcm in order to fuel above 1850. That's the revlimit for the auto. 

It really doesn't matter which trans you have. I originally had a manual ECM with my Ally. I got a real low stall TC and when I would come to a stop, as soon as the RPM's dip below 800 the manual ECM thinks it's stalling and adds fuel. If your tc is stock you'll probably be OK but if it's anything lower than that you'll probably notice the effort getting it to stop. The auto ECM is OK with about 765 RPM's in gear and stopped.

16 hours ago, Scottfunk said:

It really doesn't matter which trans you have. I originally had a manual ECM with my Ally. I got a real low stall TC and when I would come to a stop, as soon as the RPM's dip below 800 the manual ECM thinks it's stalling and adds fuel. If your tc is stock you'll probably be OK but if it's anything lower than that you'll probably notice the effort getting it to stop. The auto ECM is OK with about 765 RPM's in gear and stopped.

So have you gotten your combo straight now? Mine has been fine, just battling injector issues. Think the pop pressure is too low. Sent them back to DAP to be raised to 330. Time will tell.

@mossyoak71 Even after I got the ECM reprogrammed it still didn't want to stop. It would, just took some effort. I'm pretty sure I have also been battling a defective sprag clutch in the torque converter. I had the supplier send a warranty replacement, just waiting for time to swap it out...and rebuild the trans because the sprag being locked up scorched the trans fluid. Sucks but I'm becoming something of an expert on Allisons.

@mossyoak71 I'm ecstatic to report my transmission finally performs as it should. No more taking her out of gear to stop, seamless power from 0-70 acceleration, turbo spools right up. It feels amazing. As an added bonus I found one of the motor mounts I had originally built (very cheaply) was broken causing a horrible vibration. So i took the time to properly square up the engine and built some new, much improved motor mounts. No more vibrations and as an added bonus I was able to install the belt fan for the first time ever and ditch the stupid electric fan. And then...yes there's more! When I was dropping the transmission I literally DROPPED it! I broke the external transmission cooler I had mounted underneath, also with an electric fan. So I was forced to explore the options to cool the trans. Turns out the trans cooler in a Duramax truck radiator is exactly the same dimensions as the original trans cooler in my 96 radiator, except the ports were different. So I pulled the tank off, swapped out the coolers, and put it back together. Factory trans cooler. In the spring I'll fix the auxiliary trans cooler and mount it in front of the radiator and have a bulletproof setup. It took an entire week, 8 hours a day to get everything back together because of the challenges (thank god for PTO) but it's back together now and better than ever! 

That's cool, glad you got it finally doing you right. Mine is acting up right now, it's getting frustrating, but I will figure it out. I've got a bucking problem and starting to believe it's the VP going south. I've got another thread on it all. Congratulations