I believe it's been discussed before, but I need a straight answer on adding a fuse to a power wire going to a battery from the quad. Reason I'm wondering is every time I unplug the main connector to the box to flush it, something always clicks and I don't want to unhook a battery lead every time, plus if I do by the time you get it off it will click a few times anyway so it's almost better to just unplug the box. So I want to put in line fuse on positive feed, but don't know what size. That way it will be protected for whatever reason and won't be clicking a bunch of times. I'm guessing it will probably still click ones when I pull the fuse. I don't know I'm just thinking out loud and not sure if fuse is even needed.

I wouldn't worry I have unplugged my box literally 1000's of times without issues.  

 

It's not a bad idea, just not really needed.  I dont however know the draw of a quad box.

Actually the draw will be the same as fuse you tap in the cab which IIRC is 10 amp. The Quadzilla passes power through the Battery lead to the Ignition trigger during cool down.

Kind of what I was thinking 10a, I think I might put one in, just weird that it didn't come with one, unless there isn't much draw to begin with and even with a fuse by the time it gets up in amps to pop one it maybe to late for a box anyway. 

I would "guess" 10 amp would work, but the quadzilla is keeping hte cirucuit powered on for Turbo timer functions.  The quadzilla uses power for wiretap control from the battery line.   

 

I kinda double wiretap requires more than 10 amps, but just keep that in mind.  

If I'm not mistaken the Quadzilla is powering itself through the ignition lead. Basically when turbo timer kicks in the Quadzilla couples the BATT lead and IGN lead together. As soon as the EGTs are below the set point then the Quadzilla disconnects the BATT lead and the power automatically fails on the IGN lead because the key is OFF. In the technical sense, the fuse should be on the ignition lead.

mulling this over I think you are right.

The amount of current draw depends on a bunch of things. The most current draw is going to be for the turbo timer. I would put a 10A resistor in there to start with. Just know that it could be as much as 20A through that circuit, which is just way too much over time. If you start to blow the 10A fuse a lot, then swap it for a 15A and see if it still works. If it is still blowing the 15A circuit, there could be something else going on. 

 

The battery supplies the power to the Quad box, the ignition sense / turbo-timer keep alive wire is just to sense when the ignition turns on and to power it when we run the turbo timer. 

The ignition line isn't meant to power the quad box, but it is an unfortunate side effect of the design. Basically, power is going backwards through a power fet in that case which isn't how it was meant to be. 

I guess if it's not a huge deal and Nick unplugged it and plugged it in a thousand times and I've done it probably 30 or so lol, then maybe I'll leave it alone for now, it just feels like it should have a fuse there. But then again if it has spikes in amps like that maybe that's why it didn't have one to begin with. 

I've been just unplugging mine and flashing just like Nick...

The clicking you hear are relays turning on and off because the Quad box cycles through the power stuff when first plugged in. It will turn on the ignition momentarily and it clicks the fuel pump on/off. If you don't like the clicking, just unplug the fuse tap while you plug the box in. 

Just my experience, my box stays plugged in to a 10 amp jumper in the fuse box by the battery as well as the jumper in the cab at all times.  I believe that that module has run just off of the jumper from the fuse box in the cab before and worked just fine.  I had some issues with wiring when I first installed the quad and eventually ended up lengthening all of the leads and putting it inside the cab right behind the firewall.  Pain in the butt, but I like the fact that it is hidden and out of the way.    

 

Anyways, because of the location I decided to plug a usb cable in and leave it that way I could flash it without having to dig under the dash.  When you first plug it in to the computer the truck will act like the ignition is turned on but really doesn't do anything past that.  Load the flash and you're good to go.  I've done it this way for over a year now and no issues.

 

 

I like that idea. I'm not happy with my install and this seems like a good option.

I always thought about relocating it inside the cab but seems like I'm always finding something else to do. 

I have a write up floating around somewhere. Took a while but we’ll worth it in my opinion.

Here's the link.

 

Click

 

 

Edited December 13, 20177 yr by Carbur8tr

1 hour ago, Carbur8tr said:

Here's the link.

 

Click

 

 

 

Pictures are all missing in your photobucket account...

 

Dang it, ok, I'll have to fix that this evening.