Does the Moparman harness need 12 volts since I have not seen any videos with people hooking up 12volts 

No, you can connect the 12v if you want the LED's to work.  Beyond that it has no effect on operation.

 

see the install manual under the power lead section

 

 

19 minutes ago, Allen120 said:

Does the Moparman harness need 12 volts since I have not seen any videos with people hooking up 12volts 

now have the harness in and I got a check engine light and a little drop in rpms into 6 cylc mode and then in 3 it almos like u bump the key in the truck  and as soon as it's switched into the 3cylc and cut the fuel for a half a second and runs normal

What codes? Did you clear codes after installing the switch?  Disconnecting the IAT and ECT sensors while the truck has power can trip codes.

 

Please tell us what IAT and ECT read in each setting

 

Off: ect =   Iat =

MPG: ect =   Iat =

6 cyl: ect =   Iat =

3 Cyl: ect =   Iat =

 

Also how are you selecting the different modes?  

 

 

I have no way to read the codes

And yes I was switching the modes with the switch he provided 

Edited December 30, 20177 yr by Allen120

Did you buy the switch through the site?  

 

Can you drive to a parts store and borrow their code scanner?  you really need to clear the codes and see if they come back.  We see a TON of guys saying they have CEL's after install because the ecm didn't like it when they unplugged the stock sensors to plug in the harness.  

 

The engine will "blip" when you switch between modes as the ecm commands different fueling for different IAT and ECT's. 

37 minutes ago, Allen120 said:

now have the harness in and I got a check engine light and a little drop in rpms into 6 cylc mode and then in 3 it almos like u bump the key in the truck  and as soon as it's switched into the 3cylc and cut the fuel for a half a second and runs normal

I am not really clear on if you actually have an issue or not at this point.  

I got the switch that came with the harness the code was for coolant temp sensor and cleared it but no change for fast idle warm up ok I bought it from Moparman 

Edited December 30, 20177 yr by Allen120

i believe what @Me78569 was trying to ask was did you buy the kit from here on the site or from somewhere else.

 

 

Quote

 but no change for fast idle warm up ok 

Sorry but I dont understand what you are saying.  does the code come back after you clear it? Or does the truck not high idle?   

 

 

@Mopar1973Man did he get the switch through you?  

 

 

31 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

 

 

Sorry but I dont understand what you are saying.  does the code come back after you clear it? Or does the truck not high idle?   

 

 

@Mopar1973Man did he get the switch through you?  

No code now and no high idle at all I ordered the kit from the Mopar1973Man page just before x-mas and I got it this week

 

 

Does your ecm have high idle turned on? Does it go into high idle on its own when ambient conditions are sufficient to trigger it?

Sounds like you need to enable the ecm high idle function.  

 

The dealer can do this or a smarty s03 can do it.  

 

Once that is enabled then you will see a ramp up in idle rpm if conditions are met.  The high idle switch let's you fool that function whenever.  It will take ~2 minutes of idleing for the high idle to fully kick in.

 

We liked the tab to the install directions and that ad.

Does the mpg part still work or do I need to get that turned on

mpg works regardless of what the ecm functions are.  The mpg mode just fools the ecm into thinking it is summer thus getting you in the area of the timing maps for best MPG.

Ok thank you

There are numerous guys in your area with an S03 that can enable high idle

@Mopar1973Man @Me78569 just put this (high quality) harness in and just wondering where you guys hid the resistors, if not a secret. Is it built in the switch someplace or hiding in the wireing behind shrink wrap, curiosity got me  soon I'll find out if my ecm is enabled  

Edit: Another thing I was wondering about are leds how can a guy even see them if they're behind dash, I suppose you could drill a small hole on the side and maybe it will be enough to see it at night, I personally think just eliminate it all together along with two wires that powerI them, just a thought. 

Edited January 7, 20187 yr by Dieselfuture

The resistors are small and on the PCB board around the switch itself.  PITA to soldier.  

 

a secondary hole is to be used if you want to see the LED.  people wanted the LEDS so we built them in.  but I am with you, I dont use the LED.

10 hours ago, Me78569 said:

The resistors are small and on the PCB board around the switch itself. PITA to soldier.

 

No joke I've even tired. But the three resistors are near the logo on the circuit board. Very very small. 

 

But looking back... The first version... Very crude but the first functional high idle kit was actually 3 switches this shows the 4 switch for the MPG mode. Most people had issues with this style because you had to have a sense of logic to use the switch correctly. 

 

Then the Ed Grafton version. Had flaws with switch failures and wasn't repairable because of the method it was assembled. Ed soldered his resistors right to the switch itself which the weight of the cable caused the failure typically pulling the contacts out of the switch. 

 

Now the Version 2 series... Fixed many issues, switch failures, easily rebuildable and repairable. Harness is separate and makes it easier for installation.  Added a lock out for 3 CYL mode so it couldn't be used on a warm engine. Simplest design yet plug N play and all the logic is taken care in the switch now.