Has anybody  figured out why track bar failure occurs?

This will be the 4th or 5th one that I have had to replace in 170k....

The end that attaches to the cross member is quite loose...

If I recall correctly, the last one I  replaced was in 2016 at about 160k .

It is a Quick Steer brand made of "Forged Steel" according to the manf.

Thanks and if You Guys have a recommended unit to buy this time, I am ready to try a different brand.

Ed

 

PS: I am a much more mellow driver in my advanced age (53) than I used to be!!

6 hours ago, Alexio Auditore said:

And the steering wheel was way off, I had to adjust it.

Yes because axle got shoved towards passenger side pulling steering with it.

 

6 hours ago, Alexio Auditore said:

I went back to orielys and compared another one, it was same size as the moog. Went to Napa, different brand, same size as the moog.

What I believe is they all screwed up and wanted to make it shorter not longer, possibly same manufacturer with same idea for different outfits. Someone might have thought about how with time  trucks sag and told manufacturer to make it 1/4" shorter and they made it a 1/4" longer. Or they thought enough people put leveling kits on and that would help with that if it's longer. But in all reality it should have been same as factory and more than likely it's a defect.

 

6 hours ago, Alexio Auditore said:

Tires don't wear uneven, but now I get water to kick up on passenger side window when it rains?

Track bar will not affect how tires wear, maybe very little because it's not centered under the truck. But by putting the longer track bar in, it will shove it towards passenger side. By shoving it to one side you're not affecting an alignment of toe-in out, both tires are connected with tie rods whether it's y or t Style, the only way to change that is with a coupler that attaches them. On a side note I will be upgrading to a t Style versus Y in near future, that would eliminate bump steer and uneven wear when going over bumps. I know it's very minimal and most don't know or notice especially when using Pizza cutters  but I like the idea of one solid bar keeping my tires straight going down the road.

 

6 hours ago, notlimah said:

Usually a two man job though

What I did is put a jack under the frame in front with chunk of 4x4 to reach it easier and just lift it up so holes in track bar lineup. But I see your point on side to side, if it got used to over the years sitting certain way someone would have to push on body to center over the axle. I don't think it needs a lot of pressure and the guy could maybe use a ratchet strap somewhere on the frame or even a bumper and hook it to something on the side, then take tape measure or just eyeball axle over the frame evenly on both sides. Once that is done on level ground then you can fit the track bar in to that length, maybe measure hole to hole to get a rough start, but it will take couple of times to get it just right. Don't be scared if steering wheel is going to be off center, chances are previous alignment was done with crooked axle. So make sure axle and frame are lined up then deal with steering wheel.

My method was more so for after install and trying to get the axles evenly spaced. Trying to get the holes lined up on the initial instal can be a bit of a bear.

 

There’s a space on each end for a big crescent wrench or something so you could easily adjust it yourself even with the truck on the ground. Doing it with two people just makes it quicker as you don’t need to jack up the truck. When the truck is shimmy-ing back and forth You can easily roll the bar by hand to adjust the length. 

 

I also use a tamper seal on all these boots for steering and frame so I can check them really quick with just a once over glance. 

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HC3QIGM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6EsTAbSMZSTYN

 

I have a little bit of input on this... I was on my 3rd track bar at 160k on my stock height 99, with 285/70-16 tires.... I have a lot of friends with Dodges around here, and we all go through track bars...

I don't know what the general terrain is like where most of you are, but we are in the mountains, and every where we go is a twisty road, throwing that big heavy Cummins around left and right all the time definitely works that track bar to death... Moog bars last longer, that's just the way it is. Probably superior materials. Heim joints are the only real solution, but you gotta grass the crap out of them regularly, or the dirt and much chews them up pretty fast too.

 

So, I believe the amount of driving on straight roads, as opposed to our constant switch backs, and curves, is probably the biggest difference in longevity.

 

I am about to put an adjustable, with hiem joints on my lifted 99 because it's worn, and the front axle sits about an inch farther out on the drivers side... I didn't lift this truck, just trying to sort it out...

 

BTW... I'm 47, and I still rail the corners like it's a rally race... I'll never grow up!

5 minutes ago, RipnRam99 said:

stock height 99, with 285/70-16 tires

 

You listed the magical track bar killer. Now if the tires were smaller the track bars last longer. I'm also in the mountain and travel the same type of twisty roads and use my truck off road. I'm the only weird one that went down in tire size from the factory equipped. I went from 265's to 235's. 

18 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

You listed the magical track bar killer. Now if the tires were smaller the track bars last longer. I'm also in the mountain and travel the same type of twisty roads and use my truck off road. I'm the only weird one that went down in tire size from the factory equipped. I went from 265's to 235's. 

I need the ground clearance... I go up some pretty gnarly "driveways", and do a lot of offroad mud, rocks, and canyon sized ruts, just getting around on my own land... We all do. It's just the way of it.... But, even when I had a house in a paved street, hauling *** around endless corners eats front tires, and track bars... It's probably something to do with driving style as well.

56 minutes ago, RipnRam99 said:

I need the ground clearance...

 

1 inch isn't anything...

 

Even comparing to me... Still only 1 inch different than me but I've got way less stress on the track bar...

 

So 285's are not gaining you a whole lot of ground clearance...

 

Yes, 235's are just 1mm taller than 265's. Just 1.1" narrower. This gives me better traction in the mountains because of the more weight per square inch of contact are under the tire. Where wider tires give more floatation on soupy mud.

 

Edited March 24, 20187 yr by Mopar1973Man

W

1 hour ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

1 inch isn't anything...

 

Even comparing to me... Still only 1 inch different than me but I've got way less stress on the track bar...

 

So 285's are not gaining you a whole lot of ground clearance...

 

Yes, 235's are just 1mm taller than 265's. Just 1.1" narrower. This gives me better traction in the mountains because of the more weight per square inch of contact are under the tire. Where wider tires give more floatation on soupy mud.

 

Where did you find that chart? I'd like to compare the 215/85/16 on my truck with the 235/80/16 on my trailer. Thanks

Just Google tire calculator and take your pick.

https://tiresize.com/comparison/

 

Well, went the Moog DS1413 route  Non Adj bar...$92 thru Amazon with Tax.

However, the zerk grease fitting was missing but the new castle nut was in the box.

So far I can't get any Grease fitting to fit the new bar...tried both SAE and Metric...where can a guy get a self tapping one...

I have an e-mail into Moog and will call them tomorrow.

Truck IS tighter, but My Mech says there is enough play to possibly warrant a steering box brace....

My old truck had a Luke's Link and poly bushing on it for 70k miles. Zero issues with 285 tires. 

 

At 100k put adjustable trac bar on to offset a leveling kit.  The LL trac bar was still like new. 

 

Steering sector was tightened up maybe 3 times in the time I owned it.  

 

Put a Luke's link and poly bushing on new truck last Saturday. Good to go. 

 

The steering sector was tightened up Wednesday. That made an improvement. 

 

I have a steering brace on the way. I received one for a 3rd gen last week so I'm waiting for correct one. 

Edited April 13, 20186 yr by Ben

13 hours ago, Ben said:

 

The steering sector was tightened up Wednesday. That made an improvement. 

Could you please remind me on how to, I need it done in think. Mike said something about going in all the way and backing out 1.5 turns

6 hours ago, Dieselfuture said:

Could you please remind me on how to, I need it done in think. Mike said something about going in all the way and backing out 1.5 turns

 

Here is the TSB for it. There is an allen bolt with a jam nut on top of the steering box. 

 

TSB 19-10-97

 

The truck has always been in the air when this is done so I don't know how easy it would be with it on the ground. 

 

It's definitely a lot easier to do on manuals that autos because of no transmission coolers and plumbing being right there. 

 

Small adjustments and take your time.

 

 

Edited April 14, 20186 yr by Ben

My truck the box last 338k miles before needing the input seal replaced. The sad part is I can't do a seal kit because of the amount of rust and how tight the input cap is now. I sent my steering box back to @Blue-Top Steering as a Core. I'm not going to mess with it. Now since I did get to see the inside of the gearbox. After all those miles I've got ZERO wear on any parts. No sludge build up either. Very clean because of the 30k mile flush I would do. 

 

I've only adjusted a few times. Even when I remove the gearbox it was like driving a NEW truck back in 2002. The key here too long life of the steering box is two things.

1. Fluid flushes every 30k miles.
2. No oversized tires.

Edited April 14, 20186 yr by Mopar1973Man