Hey guys, I figured I'd post to see what you all thought. At completely stock power or with the edge comp all the way up, stock injectors and turbo or aftermarket, it doesn't matter, the truck will die after a hard pull if you take your foot off the pedal. It won't drop back to idle like it should. If you keep your foot on the pedal just a little bit for a couple seconds, it recovers and all is well. It sounds like it's running out of fuel. The airdog never drops below 12psi. The vp has about 3000k on it. It did it with the old vp too. I'd like to understand why if possible.

 

Thanks. 

Well thank you for the detail. I'll tear it apart later. If the alternator is bad, do you think the ECM can be flashed or it's smoked?

 

ill still check the apps as this happened overnight. I mean it starts and idles fine, just a responsive/unresponsive wacky pedal. 

 

But more investigation will tell... 

First off I would remove the alternator and have it bench tested for AC ripple as most shop would call it. Verify your power first. 

 

Now I would consider having the ECM flashed "may, just maybe" the software can be reset and resolve the issue. If there is any issues the DRBIII tool at a Dodge dealer should be able to spot issues. If the ECM needs to be rebuilt there is a list start here on the website by @pepsi71ocean for good ECM / PCM rebuilders. 

 

 

Well, I performed the attached tests on the APPS. It was all good. Alternator passed on autozones machine. The diodes look good. If it were your truck, what would you do?  It still kinda runs. Can't make it on the freeway to the dealer. Can't believe it took a total crap overnight. This is crazy.  

Sounds to me like a bad ecm. I would be trying to test for that. Just my 2 

11 hours ago, Daveb said:

Alternator passed on autozones machine.

 

What was the final AC ripple voltage?

I will have to go to another shop. They had no clue what I was talking about. 

Go to a true Alternator Shop. The report back the full load AC ripple voltage. 

THE FIX FOR THIS POST IS HERE!! 

 

The issue was a corrupted ECM.  Autocomputer specialist in Florida did a great job flashing it and it resolved ALL issues.  I had a p602 code which according to them was due to bad terminals and batteries.  

 

So if you have any p600 codes they informed me this is due to the batteries and terminals creating a voltage surge to the ECM corrupting the main processor...

Edited June 6, 20186 yr by Daveb
spelling error

6 hours ago, Daveb said:

Autocomputer specialist in Florida did a great job flashing it and it resolved ALL issues

What did that cost you

The service was $300 on sale. Not sure if sale is still on. 

 

https://autocomputerspecialist.com/repair-yours

I have a spare ECM from 01 my truck is 02, but all options are the same. It supposedly came out of a running truck. I'm going to give them a call and see if they can flash it to work on 02 and also enable 3/6cyl high idle. And make sure everything else is in good shape. But even for 300 bucks I think I'm better off buying the smarty and doing it my self. I just don't know if that's all I need is a smarty. Also need to change my tire size but not sure if it's in ECM or PCM. Sorry don't mean to take over your thread. 

Can you guys point me in the right direction please @Mopar1973Man @Me78569

15 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

Also need to change my tire size but not sure if it's in ECM or PCM.

 

Neither... It's in the ABS module. 

Smarty only programs the ECM. The only other thing it can program is the ABS for Speedometer.

 

Personally, I would skip the Smarty and just have a dealer flash the tires size for you. Smarty S-03 just for tire size change is rather expensive. You can get a dealer to flash it for much less.

4 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Neither... It's in the ABS module. 

Smarty only programs the ECM. The only other thing it can program is the ABS for Speedometer.

 

Personally, I would skip the Smarty and just have a dealer flash the tires size for you. Smarty S-03 just for tire size change is rather expensive. You can get a dealer to flash it for much less.

How much does dealer charge to flash and can they flush 01 ecm to work on 02, and does ecm have to be on the truck for them to do it or can just bring ecm in. Never dealt with this before but I do want to have a good working ecm for a spear, especially now that I have one. And I also wanted to to double check mine to make sure it's functioning properly. 

I think I'll just call ecm place and pick their brain, see what they say.

 

ECM has to be on the truck. Dealer can only flash what the VIN states. Typically a dealer charges one shop hour. All flash work is done through the OBDII port.

5 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Dealer can only flash what the VIN states

I guess that's why I ether want to send it to ecm place or get a smarty and do it my self, but I have no idea what I'm doing with it. But sounds like it's very easy with smarty to reprogram ecm out of different truck to work on mine just need to know what I'm doing. I can always sell smarty later, I guess another option is to rent one, but once again I want to make sure I can do all this before I rent or buy one. 

Read bottom of pg.2 into pg. 3. Might answer your question.

4 minutes ago, dave110 said:

Read bottom of pg.2 into pg. 3. Might answer your question.

I was trying to find that post, I even commented on it but couldn't remember all the info. So sounds like i can definitely use 01 on 02 just need right software from smarty. The only other problem is knowing if my spear ecm is any good. I guess I just need to plug it in my truck and go for a ride, who knows it may not need anything at all, and it could already have high idle enabled. 

@Mopar1973Man does 01 and 02 use cam sensors only or 01 still had crank sensor. I think that would be the only difference and maby a newer flash.

9 hours ago, Dieselfuture said:

But sounds like it's very easy with smarty to reprogram ecm out of different truck to work on mine

 

Just the cost of the Smarty and the recovery file which will most likely be more than entire rebuilt ECM. Again 1 shop hour at the dealer is about $120 I seriously doubt you'll be able to buy a Smarty S-03 and the recovery file for under $120. All you need to do is tow the truck to the dealer. 

Before you tow it to the dealer call them and check that they still have a working DRB III scan tool and someone who knows how to use it.

@Mopar1973Man @IBMobile my truck is not broke down and both ecms are fine, at least the one in my truck seems fine but I had some surging going on in passed and now that alternator is in good shape and grounds been addressed i wanted to make sure it's not corrupted. And my spair ecm I got of a running truck with 180k on it is just that a spear, I got it for a decent deal just to have it. So I want to make sure my ecm is fine and won't leave me stranded and also need to activate 3/6cyl high idle on both ecms assuming spear one is not enabled aready. And also spear ecm needs to be checked and flushed so it can work on my truck unless it can the way it is idk, all options on donner truck were same as mine just a year older. So for $120 for each ecm is getting close to a used smarty for $300 that I can always sell or I can rent one from Dap and do both of ecms with a current flash and activate idle, but that still won't tell me if they are good. 

Reason I want to check mine is from previous surge i had that after fixing alternator and changing injectors went a way but occasionally it will surge a little and my tachometer is a little bouncy (I did change cam sensor just because) so I believe there might be slightly problem with my current ecm. I know it's stupid to spend money on having mine checked without any codes or major issues but I have that filling that something isn't right with it. Thanks for your input.