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Recharged the ac last week got everything up and running fine. On the way home the air went from 40* to 80*. Made a pit stop got back in fired her up and she worked for about an hour or so then back to 80*. Upon further inspection I see that the clutch is turning very slowly and a little jerky like the clutch is fried. What can I check to see if thats the case or just maybe the pressure switch. 

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  • Mopar1973Man
    Mopar1973Man

    I've given up, on the whole, trying to keep factory or Cummins only parts typically this turns out to be the most expensive solution and doesn't promise that it will give the same lifespan as the repl

  • IBMobile
    IBMobile

    What has happened is the air gap between the clutch plate and the pulley has increased due to wear.  The air gap is large enough now were the electromagnet can no longer keep the clutch engaged to the

  • IBMobile
    IBMobile

    You can double up the gauges to check a bigger gap,  .026+.014= .040"     I've pulled clutches and removed shims to adjust the gap on other compressors but I've never done one on these truck

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By  any chance did you have a gage on the High side to see if it is over charged.

  • Author
2 minutes ago, Ed ke6bnl said:

By  any chance did you have a gage on the High side to see if it is over charged.

IIRC the high side was around 150.

2 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

If the clutch is spinning its engaged. If it's turning slowly the clutch is fried.

It was spinning just fine when I recharged and work fine for what little I used last week. The clutch was engaging and disengaging as I charged it up and finally was spinning just fine after getting charged. Started this stuff on Friday. It is spinning now but maybe only 100 rpm at idle and a little jerky like a slipping clutch.

150psi is not high, leaning towards the clutch. Last resort would be a loose or bad belt

  • Author

I am betting on the clutch. Nothing with the belt. It is turning everything it is suppose. I can still turn the motor over with the alternator pulley. Now the search begins. probably replace the compressor too.

Clutch is not serviceable separate from the compressor

  • Author

Guess I am headed in the right direction then. Lot of unkowns in whats available. OE is $500 down to kits for $155. Not finding alot of reliable info on the lessor ones. Anyone have any experience with the after market ones?

  • Staff

What has happened is the air gap between the clutch plate and the pulley has increased due to wear.  The air gap is large enough now were the electromagnet can no longer keep the clutch engaged to the pulley.

 

You can check this air gap with a set of feeler gauges.  The gap between the clutch plate and the pulley should be .016"-.031".  If it is greater than this then the clutch is wore out and with the miles you have on the compressor it would be best to replace the whole unit and service the complete a/c system.      

 

 

  • Author
1 hour ago, Dieselfuture said:

Neither am I. Finding good bad about all of them. Most of the 3 years old or more.

 

48 minutes ago, IBMobile said:

What has happened is the air gap between the clutch plate and the pulley has increased due to wear.  The air gap is large enough now were the electromagnet can no longer keep the clutch engaged to the pulley.

 

You can check this air gap with a set of feeler gauges.  The gap between the clutch plate and the pulley should be .016"-.031".  If it is greater than this then the clutch is wore out and with the miles you have on the compressor it would be best to replace the whole unit and service the complete a/c system.      

 

 

Appreciate the info. Just reread that article yesterday. I will check the clearance tomorrow. Be nice it was something simple.

  • Author

I checked the clearance on the clutch. The fattest gauge I have is .026 and it slips right in with room to spare. I have read that there are possibly some shims in there that can be removed to shrink the clearance but it looks like the compressor is going to have to come off to be able to see if it that is possible. 

@IBMobile is there any particular brand of compressor you are fond of? Figured you might replaced some in your day.

  • Owner

So far I'm been using NAPA supplied compressors with zero issues. Not only on Dodge truck but other cars and trucks too. 

 

Change the shim on the clutch you would have to have a clutch puller and the special tools to set it up.

  • Author
9 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

So far I'm been using NAPA supplied compressors with zero issues. Not only on Dodge truck but other cars and trucks too. 

 

Change the shim on the clutch you would have to have a clutch puller and the special tools to set it up.

Yeah I saw a lot of that on the internet last night. Still looked doable but not in the time I have today. It worked fine this morning when I went to the store. But when it warms up I dont think it is going to happy enough to work.

 

From what I am seeing you just dont know for sure which Chinese compressor you might get no matter who you but it from. I just cant swallow the $500 for the OE. Even some Sanden compressors are made in or with parts from China.

  • Owner
4 minutes ago, dripley said:

I just cant swallow the $500 for the OE.

 

What are you looking at? I'm seeing $118 to 180 on RockAuto. Then NAPA at $180 to 220.

 

 

  • Author
1 minute ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

What are you looking at? I'm seeing $118 to 180 on RockAuto. Then NAPA at $180 to 220.

 

 

You can still buy the OE compressor and they are around the $500 mark from the Mopar parts places. I have seen the ones on Rock auto and elsewhere in the kit form very reasonably priced and will go that route by the time I pull the trigger. Just seems getting any up to date opinions on them is hit and miss.

  • Staff
23 minutes ago, dripley said:

The fattest gauge I have is .026

You can double up the gauges to check a bigger gap,  .026+.014= .040"  

 

I've pulled clutches and removed shims to adjust the gap on other compressors but I've never done one on these trucks.  Yes, You would need the gap measurement,  a special tool to remove the clutch disk,  check the thickness of the shims to be removed with a micrometer, put it all back together, recheck the gap and and it should work or just buy a new one.  

 

The last a/c compressor I replaced was on a Chevy Suburban that I bought from O'rilly's.  I don't remember what I paid for it but it still working on the customer's vehicle.  I didn't buy their cheapest compressor option.  

 

When you do the job be sure to change the expansion tube, accumulator and all the O-rings.                                                    

18 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

If the clutch is spinning its engaged. If it's turning slowly the clutch is fried.

What about nothing at all?? Mine does the same exact thing as his but my clutch completely stops spinning.

  • Author
28 minutes ago, TheGreatWhite said:

What about nothing at all?? Mine does the same exact thing as his but my clutch completely stops spinning.

Mine will soon be doing that as it wears a little more. But if it is cycling on and off it could just need a charge or maybe a bad electrical connection.

58 minutes ago, IBMobile said:

 

When you do the job be sure to change the expansion tube, accumulator and all the O-rings

This is my intention.

1 minute ago, dripley said:

Mine will soon be doing that as it wears a little more. But if it is cycling on and off it could just need a charge or maybe a bad electrical connection.

This is my intention.

Mine does exactly what yours does, turn it on and it comes back. Mine however only lasts about 30 minutes

  • Author

Mine spins very slowly when it does it. I wont be long before it stops completely like yours. If I could get to it easily with out removing it from the truck I would adjust the clutch for now. But it looks like I would to take it off to adjust the gap. If I am that far into it I figure to just replace it all.

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Welcome To Mopar1973Man.Com LLC

We are privately owned, with access to a professional Diesel Mechanic, who can provide additional support for Dodge Ram Cummins Diesel vehicles. Many detailed information is FREE and available to read. However, in order to interact directly with our Diesel Mechanic, Michael, by phone, via zoom, or as the web-based option, Subscription Plans are offered that will enable these and other features.  Go to the Subscription Page and Select a desired plan. At any time you wish to cancel the Subscription, click Subscription Page, select the 'Cancel' button, and it will be canceled. For your convenience, all subscriptions are on auto-renewal.