Taking my stock exhaust off, got it undone where the downpipe hooked to the resinator, how the **** to I get the downpipe out from underneath? I tried taking it up through past the otor, tried all different ways but can't figure it out. I stumped!

I am pretty sure going up out the top of the engine is the easiest way. You have to twist it and kick it and everything but it will come eventually. I was doing it with 5".. Hmm, if your working on a CR (since you posted here lol) then it might be a lot different and I know they don't have as much room with all the other stuff. Is it that tight in there?

---------- Post added at 10:25 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:20 AM ----------

Did some googling and did you take the elbow off the turbo too? That would give you some more clearance.

Try pulling the inner fender liner out and going that way.

Try pulling the inner fender liner out and going that way.

Inner fender on these are welded fast to the fender. Man, would they ever make it you have to start taking turbo's apart to change exhaust

Well that SUCKS!

Sawzall

I was trying to get it apart without cutting it in case I ever wanted to use it or someone else wanted it, and finally was able to get it off. Thanks ISX, you got me looking at the turbo and yes, I did take the flange off and was able to get it up through. Still was a beotch to get it up past but doable. Got the new 4" all bolted on and sound tested aleady! Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

I got this in there so I knew something was up when you were having issues lol. Yes, the pic DOES do it justice as to how tight it is :stuned:Guess I have a slight leak, ruining my beautiful trans! Hmm, I'm sure it helps spool up

I do notice that mines up against the firewall insulation, wonder if that will be ok? Don't really know how to keep it from hitting it unless I remove it, which I don't really want to do :shrug:And I can't even imagine how you got that in there ISX

Mines up against it too. Never had any issues with it.

i tried the hack saw, but the last 1/3 of the pipe was out of reach of the blade. ended up get the torch out:whistle:

I do notice that mines up against the firewall insulation, wonder if that will be ok? Don't really know how to keep it from hitting it unless I remove it, which I don't really want to do And I can't even imagine how you got that in there ISX

READ.. http://www.midwestdieselconnection.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3992&highlight=fire

I always wondered about that. I think 5" dissipates a lot of it but now I see that the high EGT's of a trailer will eventually wreak havoc. I am thinking I will wrap it in some of that silver stuff that the A/C lines have on it where it goes under the turbo. Wonder if there is something better out there.

I installed a Farm Boy Performance 5 inch straight pipe (more like stove pipe) exhaust on my truck. I started to install it myself but ran into a similar problem. Decided to take it a reputable local muffler shop so it could be put up on a lift and done right. Here is my write up: http://forum.tractorfarmandfamily.com/showthread.php?t=12825 Not too loud if you drive normal and sounds goooooooooooooooooooooooooood when you pour the coal to it.

I crawled under mine again today and started loosening the clamps and figured i'd try to turn the downpipe somehow to try and get it away from the firewall insulation. I ended up leaving it as it was because after laying there looking at it, I still see no way of getting it away from hitting unless you bend it, or take the insulation away and then it still will be close to touching the bare firewall. I think if MBRP would put just a little more bend in it from when they make it the problem wouldn't be there. I did go out and buy a fire extinguisher today and bolt it under the back seat in case. Mopar1973Man, you put bigger exhaust on yours, did you run into this problem?

Still running factory 3" pipe straight... No muffler...

After having the replacement SS exhaust hanging around for a year... I had the CTD in a decent garage & dropped the job on them. They put it together, looked like a well done job... though I thought they charged me plenty. The mechanic said he had to heat & bent some of the hangers so the Universal long wheelbase second gen exhaust kit would clear the rear spring. My truck's not smokin' under the hood... I guess I should be happy & feel better about the cost.Russ

I messed with it for 3 hours on Saturday and didn't get much further then when i started so today I took it to a garage my buddy works at and after an hour we had clearance i'm happy with. Closest spot is probably 3/8 inch away, the rest is about 1/2 away. We ended up breaking the exhaust apart at the front joint , pulling down on the downpipe down at the front and then heating and putting more bend in it. Had to bend a couple hangers and two had to be cut and welded on a bit different. Box said it was for 98-2002 Dodge but somethign wasn't matching up for some reason.