These ford seals may or may not work with sertain valve springs, be sure to measure all Id/od before committing.

 

So I'm in process of figuring out why some of my seals are tore/smashed. Finding out that new style seals 03 and up may work on our 2nd gen. They are held in place by spring and can't come up from too much boost etc. I've spoken with https://ussealparts.com and they have both styles at great prices, although top hat style is listed for 03 and newer. The difference I believe is in ID where it slides over guide, sounds like top hat is slightly bigger but that should not affect the sealing capabilities as valve still same diameter. I ordered both styles and let ya all know. Now this place advertising them as they do fit.  https://puredieselpower.com/dodge-products/dodge-6b-cummins-intake-valve-seal-exhaust-valve-seal-set-b45962-b45963.html#/product/21380 

 

Another thing I might be doing is upgrading to better push rods, springs, trunion bearings and roker arm bridges from Manton. That may explain my ovaled guides and smashed seals, or so I hope.

Let me know your thoughts 

Edited October 8, 20204 yr by Dieselfuture
Added info

7 minutes ago, CUMMINSDIESELPWR said:

it will take you a couple hours to do the seals by yourself :P

 

When your driving 3 days a week (Tues, Thurs, and Sat) for 13 hours. Then working Wed and Fri to make a bit of money to pay bills. That leaves Sun to get truck stuff done if I'm not interrupted by fire pages. Then Mon I've got to do house chores to be ready for the week again. Being I've never done it I want plenty of time so I'm not hurried. 

 

Now like my VP44 change out time is down to about 1.25 hours. My first time took a bit more than 4-5 hours. 

5 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

When your driving 3 days a week (Tues, Thurs, and Sat) for 13 hours. Then working Wed and Fri to make a bit of money to pay bills. That leaves Sun to get truck stuff done if I'm not interrupted by fire pages. Then Mon I've got to do house chores to be ready for the week again. Being I've never done it I want plenty of time so I'm not hurried. 

 

Now like my VP44 change out time is down to about 1.25 hours. My first time took a bit more than 4-5 hours. 

 

 

yeah true first time always slower for learning it.

 

i did mine with the head off so rotating the engine wasnt in the steps.    use grease on the nut when tightening so you dont bind the threads when compressing (one thing i saw quickly on first set)

 

have a magnet pen to catch the keeper inserts it really helps! lemme know if you have questions but you can do it.

Edited August 20, 20186 yr by CUMMINSDIESELPWR

12 minutes ago, CUMMINSDIESELPWR said:

have a magnet pen to catch the keeper inserts it really helps!

 

I've got to get one. Thanks for the idea...

 

13 minutes ago, CUMMINSDIESELPWR said:

lemme know if you have questions but you can do it.

 

I might take you up on that offer. I'll admit I don't know everything. 

Well I'm doing mine this weekend, just got the green GOLD in. 

On 8/20/2018 at 2:51 PM, Mopar1973Man said:

 

I've got to get one. Thanks for the idea...

 

 

I might take you up on that offer. I'll admit I don't know everything. 

its what we are here for man!

 

i do have a video of me doing one set of valves start to end when i rebuilt mine, only difference for you is you will need to TDC each cylinder before starting. everything else is the same

Edited August 21, 20186 yr by CUMMINSDIESELPWR

I split my balancer in 3 with marking paint starting on TDC #1 and rotating crank with alternator  (backwards) used backwards firing order. Worked good, then I doubled check valve lash when I was done using overlap method. Plus doing one cylinder at a time let's you torque rocker arms down without force from cam. I guess it's the only way to do it anyway without dropping valves.

You can do two cylinders at a time cause there's three sets of sister cylinders.

6 hours ago, trreed said:

You can do two cylinders at a time cause there's three sets of sister cylinders.

Yes to change seals and torque rockers but not to adjust valves, only one of those cylinders will be adjustable

I'm hoping to jump into this task by Sunday and get mine done. I need to get the Cummins rolling. 

On 8/24/2018 at 10:04 AM, Mopar1973Man said:

I'm hoping to jump into this task by Sunday and get mine done. I need to get the Cummins rolling. 

you can always push it down a hill to get it rolling

Well, some shitty news for me. Just took valve cover off to check valve lash after about 1k and most of them needed to be adjusted a little, things must of wore in place. That part didn't bother me but I decided to take a closer look at valve seals and ..... top hats on exhaust looked fine and now my intake ones worked their way up on few cylinders  I tried to push it back down but as soon as I rotated the motor it worked right back up, it's working like an umbrella seal now. I'm pised once again, now I have to find time to take it all apart and change intakes to top hat style too. Should of done it right away but as hard as intakes were pressed on it didn't think there would be a problem especially if I didn't have a problem with them before,  should of let them be I guess.

So I don't know if it's seals quality or I did something wrong. 

All the Manton things I put on seem to be doing good. 

I just don't feel like taking injectors out again anytime soon, but if oil is going down the guides it will probably wear them out sooner then I want. So I'm going to have a beer and get this thing of my mind got other things I need to be thinking off. 

1 hour ago, Dieselfuture said:

Well, some shitty news for me. Just took valve cover off to check valve lash after about 1k and most of them needed to be adjusted a little, things must of wore in place. That part didn't bother me but I decided to take a closer look at valve seals and ..... top hats on exhaust looked fine and now my intake ones worked their way up on few cylinders  I tried to push it back down but as soon as I rotated the motor it worked right back up, it's working like an umbrella seal now. I'm pised once again, now I have to find time to take it all apart and change intakes to top hat style too. Should of done it right away but as hard as intakes were pressed on it didn't think there would be a problem especially if I didn't have a problem with them before,  should of let them be I guess.

So I don't know if it's seals quality or I did something wrong. 

All the Manton things I put on seem to be doing good. 

I just don't feel like taking injectors out again anytime soon, but if oil is going down the guides it will probably wear them out sooner then I want. So I'm going to have a beer and get this thing of my mind got other things I need to be thinking off. 

Hate to hear that, I did mine 2 weeks ago and so far so good. I used the green GOLD. I did not so the intakes, so fingers crossed.

Edited September 9, 20186 yr by mossyoak71

So is the cuase of premature valve wear high boost? Is something of concern in my application or a wear item down the road when I have more miles? 

9 hours ago, Marcus2000monster said:

So is the cuase of premature valve wear high boost? Is something of concern in my application or a wear item down the road when I have more miles? 

You should be fine if yours are original, if you ever change them go to top hats style. 

Well I spent 4 hours yesterday and got it done, otherwise it would bug me knowing that it ain't right. So now I'm using Ford 4.0 Top Hat style valve seals on all four of my valves, glad I bought enough off them. I should have done it right away but seeing how intake once didn't have a problem I decided not to. About half of them were off and going up and down with valves, and the other half didn't take much effort to pry them off, definitely not as much as to put them on. Maybe it's the oil I'm using it's too slick 

Either way I'm glad I figured out that these Ford seals work on a Dodge with slight modifications. 

But still the answer is to machine the the head to accept what's meant for it. 

Here is 7x10 injector and tunion after thousand miles, looking good as far as I can tell. There are tiny scuff marks on trunions that transferred from the rocker, but you can't really feel them it's more or less the finish looks that way. 

I went and drove it later and for the first time used wiretap with these 7x10, all I can say is wow I don't think I'll have to ever use wiretap again it's way too much power, I'm afraid I'll break something on the truck. Thing was angry and screaming, good thing I had my D fuel set on the quad.

You'll use wiretap again.  Trust me.  It'll become addicting.  Just plan your shifts.  Don't power shift or try to lay into it under 2000 rpm in 6th.

1 hour ago, trreed said:

You'll use wiretap again.  Trust me.  It'll become addicting.  Just plan your shifts.  Don't power shift or try to lay into it under 2000 rpm in 6th.

This is the time when you wish you had a built automatic. But honestly I drive like an old man most of time, it's just nice to know the power is there if you need it. If I had some sort of guarantee that I won't break anything, I would be racing stop light to stop light on daily basis lol, I'm just tired of working on it all the time and want to just enjoy driving it. But I do definitely love my 7x10 with my current turbo, they were meant for each other , and of course none of this would be as good without V2 tuning.

You're still below the limit of "might actually break something".  Enjoy it.  Don't destroy your clutch.  

6 minutes ago, trreed said:

You're still below the limit of "might actually break something".  Enjoy it.  Don't destroy your clutch.  

I don't know man I'm halfway tempted taking it to the dino to see what I'm at. Po supposably put a 500hp clutch in, but I really have no idea what it is. It's been holding up so far. All I know is it's really grabby must be ceramic

You're right about at that range.  Depends on your timing and fuel curves