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NO BUS message on odometer

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I sent my ecm in for repair and WTS seems to work correctly but now on odometer I have a no bus message. Also abs, air bag and mil lights are on. Odometer codes are 900, 920, 921, 940, 950, 999 and gauges don’t work. Codes are p1698 and p0237. What do you use if you don’t have DRB III tool? Would really appreciate any help you folks can offer. Thank you

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  • Mopar1973Man
    Mopar1973Man

    Your welcome (under my breath - That suxed...)

  • Me78569
    Me78569

    I'd send it back and have them fix it.  Sounds like you have bad signals on the CCD bus 

  • Mopar1973Man
    Mopar1973Man

    Sorry for the lag... Mine was 700 plus shipping. Mine was a full replacement.

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  • Author

Something else I discovered is when I plug my code reader in then abs, airbag and mil lights go off and I can read codes from odometer-0122, 1693, 1694, 1687

I'd send it back and have them fix it.  Sounds like you have bad signals on the CCD bus 

    • Like 1
    • Author

     

    15 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

    Where did you send it to originally

    ACS in Florida 

    6 minutes ago, Royal Squire said:

     

    ACS in Florida 

    I'm starting to have slight doubts about that place, but hope I'm wrong. Little too early to say that yet, as much as I want to blame someone else for my problems :shifty:

    • 1 month later...
    • Author

    Haven’t had any time to work on truck as my job keeps getting in the way. Did some checking on connections etc but been so long I struggle to remember what I’ve done.  Been in touch with ACS, they repaired ecm, and they want me to send them codes and they will get back to me. So was rereading codes(can’t remember where I wrote them down) and performed the instrument cluster test. What I’m wondering is if anyone here can tell me what those codes mean. I got 900, 920, 921, 940, 950, and 999. Maybe my cluster is bad. I really need to get this truck running as I use it to plow my driveway. Any help would be much appreciated. 

    Thank you 

    • 3 months later...
    • Author

    @Mopar1973Man, @Haggar, @IBMobile, @Me78569 I got my ecm back from ACS for the second time but am afraid to plug it in. Went through P1698 diagnostics as shown on the site here and all checked out till I get to #6. It says if resistance between terminal 31 and ground is less  than 10 ohms, replace PCM. Did a similar test on ECM connector, terminal 30 testing P1694 and it says to replace ECM, which is fresh rebuild so should be ok there. Do you fellas have any other suggestions before I send my PCM in for testing/repair?

    Really appreciate any help you can give me. Thank you 

    • Author

     

    Thanks Mike. I will get it sent off  tomorrow. 

    Edited by Royal Squire

    • Author

    Not sure. Want them to repair it if needed. If it doesn’t need repair hopefully they won’t charge me for repair. 

    • Owner
    31 minutes ago, Royal Squire said:

    Guess I should stop complaining. 

     

    Between the new alternator for $130 bucks in a NAPA parking lot. Then the tow home another $150 bucks. Then the $700 for the PCM replacement. Then the shipping cost to get to and from ACS and back to me. Little over a $1,000 for sure. Then the mods to protect the PCM and the circuit breaker. That project was very expensive. 

    Yes we live and learn, as soon as I found out about @Mopar1973Man protective fuse mod for PCM that was a very next thing I did, thanks for frying your PCM Mike :whistle2:

    1 minute ago, Mopar1973Man said:

     

    Your welcome (under my breath - That suxed...)

    If had to happen to you, otherwise this mod would have never came to existence. Someone else would have just replaced PCM and alternator and moved on without figuring out what can be done to prevent it

    • Like 1
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