I'll make a quick post on this. If you have truck that got the OEM rear sway bar end links still I highly suggest replacing them very soon. I'm learning just because something can last that long doesn't mean its a good idea to leave in that long. I ended up pulling the entire rear sway bar to just replace the end links. I had to stick each end in my table vise and heat them with MAP gas torch nice and hot and beat them out with a 6-pound hammer. You'll find Dodge really screwed up and has the bolt inserted from the wrong direction on the driver side. The fuel tank is in the way. So you end up pulling the mounting bracket which has 2 nuts. Mine was so bad the passenger side I pull the link right off the ball which was rusted and too small to hold in the cup any longer. The passenger side was in much better condition but sloppy. It was put together 16 years ago and now the rust and the parts are nearly welded together.
Sorry, no pictures on this its a fairly straightforward task of replacement. I will say that it much easier to remove the entire rear sway bar and work with it in a table vise than laying on the floor attempting to beat the ball studs out.
I'll make a quick post on this. If you have truck that got the OEM rear sway bar end links still I highly suggest replacing them very soon. I'm learning just because something can last that long doesn't mean its a good idea to leave in that long. I ended up pulling the entire rear sway bar to just replace the end links. I had to stick each end in my table vise and heat them with MAP gas torch nice and hot and beat them out with a 6-pound hammer. You'll find Dodge really screwed up and has the bolt inserted from the wrong direction on the driver side. The fuel tank is in the way. So you end up pulling the mounting bracket which has 2 nuts. Mine was so bad the passenger side I pull the link right off the ball which was rusted and too small to hold in the cup any longer. The passenger side was in much better condition but sloppy. It was put together 16 years ago and now the rust and the parts are nearly welded together.
Sorry, no pictures on this its a fairly straightforward task of replacement. I will say that it much easier to remove the entire rear sway bar and work with it in a table vise than laying on the floor attempting to beat the ball studs out.