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We are privately owned, with access to a professional Diesel Mechanic, who can provide additional support for Dodge Ram Cummins Diesel vehicles. Many detailed information is FREE and available to read. However, in order to interact directly with our Diesel Mechanic, Michael, by phone, via zoom, or as the web-based option, Subscription Plans are offered that will enable these and other features.  Go to the Subscription Page and Select a desired plan. At any time you wish to cancel the Subscription, click Subscription Page, select the 'Cancel' button, and it will be canceled. For your convenience, all subscriptions are on auto-renewal.

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Started out just gonna clean out heater core etc then it turned into this. The entire cab is dismantled. Ha! Found some moisture issues, gonna clean up some wiring, put some new heat shield/noise damper in, blow out the dust, take out the whole hvac box and clean it, make some new door panels, redo my headliner, get seats cleaned etc. 

 

Any recommendations while I'm this far in? 

 

I honestly debated pulling the whole dash out and then building my own dash how I wanted it... if anyone wants to spark some interest in this I have a few ideas and pics. 

 

Door panels shouldn't be that hard to make, unless I just say screw it and buy some new ones or junk yard ones. But I really like the idea of custom door panels and dash! 

 

I'm sure I'll be doing some other stuff but this is a good starter for a thread. More pics coming! 

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  • I would have to ask the same. Mine was cracked about that bad and I did replace it. Could not help but think if I repaired it that it would just crack somewhere else. I know my bezel did.

  • that looks more like a gutted fish than the underside of a dash pad!! What does that thing weigh, 50 pounds? 

  • Got the HVAC case split this evening... what foam is the best for re sealing everything?  I mean everything lol.    Gonna try and make a video so I can share it will yall cause I have w

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Looking good!

  • Owner

Forgot one seal. Re-do the drain seal at the bottom of the evaporator. 

 

Battery bolt coat the bolts in oil and they never rust.

  • Author
1 hour ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Forgot one seal. Re-do the drain seal at the bottom of the evaporator. 

 

Battery bolt coat the bolts in oil and they never rust.

This is for sure on the list, but I cant see or find where this drain connect too? 

  • Author
4 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Nothing. Just a plastic stub that connects to nothing.

Oh, haha... I thought I was loosing it. My tube looked like it was connected to something... I guess it just drains into the floor :think: :drool:

5 minutes ago, Stanley said:

Oh, haha... I thought I was loosing it. My tube looked like it was connected to something... I guess it just drains into the floor :think: :drool:

It goes thru the firewall. You need to put a 90 or some tubing on it after install or it will drain into the floor board.

  • Author
2 minutes ago, dripley said:

It goes thru the firewall. You need to put a 90 or some tubing on it after install or it will drain into the floor board.

Oh so I does go somewhere... I havent seen where it would go through the fire wall... Ill try and post up a video with what little progress I have made, and show the drain tube again... 

Gonna be taking the old steering shaft off tonight and replacing with the borgson! 

 

Dash frame is ready to go in! 

 

******However I cant remember if I can get the dash top on with the frame all buttoned up? Advice?? 

 

Clutch is getting ordered today along with new gauges, pod, wiring. 

 

Went with a South Bend DD Multi Friction clutch rated at 650 on DAP other sites have it rated at 550-750... 

Industrial Injection states that I should be right at 700 with my turbo. 800 if I get a little bit bigger turbo! 

 

I dont really want to go bigger.....But I do wish I could compound my turbo with something else to get better response time and to maybe help with smoke control. Advice on this???

  • Owner
15 minutes ago, Stanley said:

Oh, haha... I thought I was loosing it. My tube looked like it was connected to something... I guess it just drains into the floor :think: :drool:

A/C drain stubs out the firewall to the ground.

 

The blower motor vent into the case with a rubber tube.

  • Author

Ill be checking it all over again tonight... Maybe I missed it. Hopefully the video will be good enough to see it. I like making these videos but man it takes so long to upload/post them on youtube. I wonder if using my gopro would help in the upload time and video quality... That would be a question for a computer guy.....:wink: @Mopar1973Man

  • Owner

Higher video quality means biggervfiles and longer upload times. Reduce the quality and the files get smaller and upload times shorter.

8 hours ago, Stanley said:

******However I cant remember if I can get the dash top on with the frame all buttoned up? Advice??

There are some screws that need to be installed from the backside of the dash pad so do the pad before putting the dash or HVAC box in place. I used Mikes article on replacing the heater core and evaporator to pull mine. 

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Author

So Im looking at VPmax intercooler boots from DAP and Crazy Carls intercooler piping kit with tubes (3.5") 

Crazy carls is 250$ and Vpmax is 205$ 

Not much of a difference price wise but as far as functionality which would you choose?? 

 

  • Author

:hyper:Needing opinions on this so I can get this ordered soon:spend:. Anyone wanna throw there :2cents: in? 

  • Author

Thats what I was leaning towards, is the boots any better? I have read about the extra .5 inch and info to back it up, but didnt know if anyone had real world experience with it. Its only $50 more... and you get shiny stuff. Haha

  • Owner

The problem isn't the tubes and boots. I think more so the intake on the head. This is why big power guys end up milling off the intake and bolting on a true manifold to gain air flow. For a daily driver with added fuel you not going to be able to flow any more through that head till the restriction are dealt with. Most comment on how the cylinder #1 is restrictive in the casting. 

  • Author

This is very true, I have thought about getting a spare head to mess with and milling it off and building/port polish as I went (time and money) then bolt on. But your right about the flow at the head. I am wondering though if the (volume ) of air would be helpful through the bigger tubes to a bigger intake horn to the intake? (having the air there in bulk when its needed) 

Or would that be a waste since its not going to flow none of it? 

  • Owner
15 minutes ago, Stanley said:

I am wondering though if the (volume ) of air would be helpful through the bigger tubes to a bigger intake horn to the intake?

 

No. Because the pressure drop will happen AFTER the restriction. So you boost gauge will show pressure but the port will have dropped pressure some after the restriction. 

 

Kind of like before and after fuel pressure gauges on the fuel filter. 

Edited by Mopar1973Man

Bigger tubes won't help much when all of the flow hits #1 and #2 cylinders first, expands, loses pressure, and eventually makes it down to #6.  For a while I was considering the Pusher intake that has a runner directly to #6, but I figured it wasn't worth it.

 

Btw, this was stock piping with the VPMax boots. My new theory is that this is enough pressure to help push the flow down the shelf to #5/#6. :evilgrin:

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Edited by trreed

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Welcome To Mopar1973Man.Com LLC

We are privately owned, with access to a professional Diesel Mechanic, who can provide additional support for Dodge Ram Cummins Diesel vehicles. Many detailed information is FREE and available to read. However, in order to interact directly with our Diesel Mechanic, Michael, by phone, via zoom, or as the web-based option, Subscription Plans are offered that will enable these and other features.  Go to the Subscription Page and Select a desired plan. At any time you wish to cancel the Subscription, click Subscription Page, select the 'Cancel' button, and it will be canceled. For your convenience, all subscriptions are on auto-renewal.