I've been having some problems with my AirDog. So I've decided to hardwire it with a toggle switch. But since it has the relay I don't know which wires go where. I know I can jump the yellow and red together to turn it on but what are the other two. Do I need to tie those into somewhere too? 

I'm new to the electrical toggle switch wiring stuff so would I just switch it to power in power out or which ones would I connect to?

What problem are you with the pump?

We'll the pump went out last year. Left it parked till I got a warranteed one. Then I fixed it and got it going again.  The relay went out a while back and now the fuse went out. But I don't want the relay to go out again so I wanna hardwire a toggle switch 

6 minutes ago, tmropr1991 said:

The relay went out a while back and now the fuse went out.

 

Pump could be damaged, froze up, or got gelled fuel. The fuse should never blow. If it is don't wire around the normal system because it not working right. There is a reason why the AirDog blowing the fuse. Typically the motor is locked up some how.

Well I jumped the harness and the pump is pumping well it seems. Put another fuse and it didn't blow. 

1 minute ago, tmropr1991 said:

Put another fuse and it didn't blow. 

 

Be careful. My last pump did exactly that about 8 hours later the pump locked up and blew the fuse again. Not a wiring problem but the pump motor locked up.

10 hours ago, tmropr1991 said:

Do I need to tie those into somewhere too? 

The other 2 probably come from ECM and that's what trigger the relay to energize. Don't connect the other 2 anywhere if you're planning on using toggle switch. 

Sounds like you have more than one problem, maybe ecm is going out.

AirDog sent me another replacement pump not long ago. So I have an extra one just in case. What symptoms will show if the ecm is going

Wait to start not coming on instantly with key on, lift pump not working properly, sometimes surging, random codes all at once, the list can be big. A lot of it is from bad grounds, bad alternator with excessive AC/ alternating current. 

ECM should only trigger a relay that powers lift pump and not power lift pump directly. Front factory they had lift pump powered directly from ECM but they were smaller pumps, airdog, fass, and other bigger ones use ECM input to power relay and relay will power lift pump from battery. Or skip Bs and get a mechanical lift pump. 

Also on your toggle switch idea, don't power it on until engine starts, VP doesn't like pressure when starting. 

For many reasons you should have it controlled by the ECM. For time being switch is ok.

I haven't had any of those happen yet. Just seem to have some type of problem with the pump but seems to be working fine now. I'm gonna put the switch for now till I get a new relay. 

Just the fact the lift pump is not coming on while running could be an ECM problem. Lift pump circuit could be damaged in the ECM. no error codes or Wait To Start light issues are needed. 

 

I highly suggest you leave the lift pump hooked to the ECM for control. It would really suck to lose your life over a $5 toggle switch. If the truck happens to be in an accident and you unconscious the fuel will continue to pump till someone turns off the pump. The ECM will shut down all fuel and pumps if the engine shuts down suddenly and drop tach signal like Frontal crash. 

Edited March 3, 20196 yr by Mopar1973Man

Ok that's a good reason on why it should stay to the relay. Do you know the part number for it? Maybe I could get one at O'Reilly's or AutoZone. One thing I've noticed is I have glowshift gauges. And the fuel pressure gauge fluctuates alot. I've put a manual gauge on from the pump and it's pumping at 15psi steady but the gauge keeps jumping around. Guess it's time to get an isspro mechanical fuel gauge. 

51 minutes ago, tmropr1991 said:

One thing I've noticed is I have glowshift gauges. And the fuel pressure gauge fluctuates alot

 

Glow shift are poor quality from the get go. Then you never want to install a sensor at the tap point. You want at least 5 foot of tubing between the last snubber to the sensor. This stops the water hammer from beating the sensor to death. 

 

55 minutes ago, tmropr1991 said:

...One thing I've noticed is I have glowshift gauges. And the fuel pressure gauge fluctuates alot. I've put a manual gauge on from the pump and it's pumping at 15psi steady but the gauge keeps jumping around. Guess it's time to get an isspro mechanical fuel gauge. 

Where do you have your fuel pressure sensor for the Glowshift gauges?  If its close to the injection pump without a snubber or needle valve or even with one, it could be water hammer effect you are seeing on the gauge.  That will destroy the sensor over time.

Edited March 3, 20196 yr by hdpwipmonkey
Mopar beat me.

How did you do your set up? That actually looks pretty nice. 

3 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Glow shift are poor quality from the get go. Then you never want to install a sensor at the tap point. You want at least 5 foot of tubing between the last snubber to the sensor. This stops the water hammer from beating the sensor to death. 

 

This setup looks very clean and nice. How did you do this? I'd like to have a setup like this. 

1 minute ago, hdpwipmonkey said:

Where do you have your fuel pressure sensor for the Glowshift gauges?  If its close to the injection pump without a snubber or needle valve or even with one, it could be water hammer effect you are seeing on the gauge.  That will destroy the sensor over time.

It is on the AirDog pump. Right where the taps are. 

8 minutes ago, tmropr1991 said:

 

It is on the AirDog pump. Right where the taps are. 

with a snubber or needle valve?

 

I have mine in a push lock threaded T connector about a foot or so back from the injection pump with a snubber and I have no pulsing issues on my gauge.

 

I put mine up closer to the injection pump so I would know what the pressure was in the line not at the lift pump.

Edited March 3, 20196 yr by hdpwipmonkey

I got Eric at Vulcan Performance to make it for me. Its just a piece of angle iron with 2 holes that are tight fitting to the double female NPT fittings. Eric lightly tack welded the fitting and just screwed it to the fender. 

2 minutes ago, hdpwipmonkey said:

with a snubber or needle valve?

 

I have mine in a push lock threaded T connector about a foot or so back from the injection pump with a snubber and I have no pulsing issues on my gauge.

 

I put mine up closer to the injection pump so I would know what the pressure was in the line not at the lift pump.

Ok that's something I could think about doing too. Because I need to figure out another place to put it. I could run a hose from that tap to the front of the truck and put my sensor. Somewhere more accessable as well 

5 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

I got Eric at Vulcan Performance to make it for me. Its just a piece of angle iron with 2 holes that are tight fitting to the double female NPT fittings. Eric lightly tack welded the fitting and just screwed it to the fender. 

That's a nice setup. I need to look into it or make one myself. What kind of gauge set up do you have?

4 minutes ago, tmropr1991 said:

Ok that's something I could think about doing too. Because I need to figure out another place to put it. I could run a hose from that tap to the front of the truck and put my sensor. Somewhere more accessable as well 

I have one of these in the 1/2 inch fuel line under the hood with the snubber screwed into it and the fuel pressure sensor screwed into the snubber.

https://www.dieselautopower.com/vulcan-push-lock-fuel-pressure-tee-1-2