Ok, so my truck has an electrical draw (among the myriad of other things) so I went to start it yesterday, and the batteries were dead. I hooked up a charger to the passenger side and let the charger trickle charge all night. Still wouldn't start today. I had a friend bring over a big wheeled battery charger, and hooked it up, but remembered I needed to disconnect the adrenaline adr box first. I did, got the truck to start, let it idle for about 20 minutes to charge the batteries, then shut it down and hooked up the adr box. Immediately, with the key off and in my hand, I heard the cluster ding, and a few seconds later my fuel pump primed. Weird, but ok. I tried to start the truck, but nothing. I'm getting fuel, but the truck acts like it's not pushing the fuel. 

I disconnected the negative cables on the batteries, and did a 30 minute hard reset. I rehooked the adr box back up, then the negatives, and as soon as the truck got power the pump primed again like the key was on. But the ignition is off, key in my pocket. I tried again, no. Dice. 

 

Did I fry the box? 

On my truck if I reconnect the negative terminals, passanger first, the pump will run with the key off and maybe in my pocket. If I do driver side first it will not. No clue as to why. I never heard the chime though.

 

Are you sure the batteries charged? 20 minutes of idle will not do much charging especially if the batteries are low. Check them with a volt meter. They might not have enough power to spin the motor fast enough to start.

Just now, dripley said:

On my truck if I reconnect the negative terminals, passanger first, the pump will run with the key off and maybe in my pocket. If I do driver side first it will not. No clue as to why. I never heard the chime though.

 

Are you sure the batteries charged? 20 minutes of idle will not do much charging especially if the batteries are low. Check them with a volt meter. They might not have enough power to spin the motor fast enough to start.

Motor spins plenty fast. It just won't light. Like the vp44 is getting the signal to inject. It sounds like when you have air in the lines and have to bleed them. That kind of starting sound. 

Crack open an injector line or 3 and see if you have fuel. 

 

The reasoning behind checking the batteries is you have a no start issue that requires boosting the batteries to start the motor. It works and the engine starts. You shut it down after short idle run and now it wont start again. 

3 hours ago, dripley said:

Crack open an injector line or 3 and see if you have fuel. 

 

The reasoning behind checking the batteries is you have a no start issue that requires boosting the batteries to start the motor. It works and the engine starts. You shut it down after short idle run and now it wont start again. 

Well, truck starts right up without the box hooked up. Hook up box, no start, but everything turns on like key is on when it isn't. I think my box pooped the bed. 

Is there any way to reset it? Or reflash it? 

8 minutes ago, Ravewolf said:

Well, truck starts right up without the box hooked up. Hook up box, no start, but everything turns on like key is on when it isn't. I think my box pooped the bed. 

Is there any way to reset it? Or reflash it? 

That is above my paygrade.  @Quadzilla Power could answer that.

13 minutes ago, dripley said:

That is above my paygrade.  @Quadzilla Power could answer that.

Hopefully he gets on soon and it's simple. I don't want to pay for another box....

I did open mine just to make sure nothing burned up, and it seems fine. But I'm not an electronics engineer,so I truly can't say.

Edited March 17, 20196 yr by Ravewolf

Disconnect the CANBus lead and the MAP sensor and try again.

Ok. I know I hooked everything up again and I can't find the Bluetooth signal from the box. But I'll try that right quick

 

UPDATE Just tried as mopar1973man suggested, no dice. Going to unhook the box completely and roll like that until I can figure out what happened. I'm pretty sure I either erased, or corrupted the program inside the box. 

Also, with key off, brake, airbag, and CEL lights stay on in dash. 

Edited March 17, 20196 yr by Ravewolf
Adding critical stuff

Reflash the box and see what happens.

22 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

Reflash the box and see what happens.

Instructions on this website? I'm game to try it

11 minutes ago, Ravewolf said:

Instructions on this website? I'm game to try it

Link to the instructions.  Follow the video instructions not the PDF.  Make sure you have the right USB cable (data cable, not just a charge cable)

Link to the flash file.

Good luck, hopefully this fixes it.

6 minutes ago, hdpwipmonkey said:

Link to the instructions.  Follow the video instructions not the PDF.  Make sure you have the right USB cable (data cable, not just a charge cable)

Link to the flash file.

Good luck, hopefully this fixes it.

Thanks! 

2 hours ago, Ravewolf said:

Also, with key off, brake, airbag, and CEL lights stay on in dash. 

Is with the quad connected or not or both ways?

4 hours ago, dripley said:

Is with the quad connected or not or both ways?

With quad connected. Without truck starts and runs

22 minutes ago, Ravewolf said:

With quad connected. Without truck starts and runs

Talking about the lights.

10 hours ago, dripley said:

Talking about the lights.

With the quad connected, lights are on in the dash with key off. Kinda like when the turbo timer is on. Disconnected, key off, no lights. 

Time to contact Quadzilla sounds like warranty issue.

Something is definitely wacked out with it.

8 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Time to contact Quadzilla sounds like warranty issue.

 

8 hours ago, dripley said:

Something is definitely wacked out with it.

I did, box is fried, but it's covered. Sent mine to them today, hoping for a quick turnaround.