Everyone says they’re had to be a companion code but they’re is none when scanning with my OBDLink. I installed new stock injectors but my truck still doesn’t run like other 24 valves. Other ones idle smoother and the engine sounds different. I’m really bewildered and I want my truck to run like a true 24 valve should. Valves have been adjusted as well. Where should I go next? 

Edited April 25, 20196 yr by JAG1

A couple questions......

 

Did you make sure all the old copper washers came out with the old injectors? Did you make sure to gently snug up the high pressure lines first before tightening down the injectors for proper alignment? Did you make sure to place a small amount of grease on the washers of the new injectors making sure to not have a copper washer fall off before inserting the injector? Are they brand new from Bosch? If they are rebuilds make sure they are pop tested and flow matched'

 

Last..... any weeping of fuel from the pressure lines or return lines?

I'm sorry about tossing you a pile of questions Marcus didn't mean to make it sound so intense there Boss.

 

You know both my trucks have the grid heaters disconnected for several years and it is very weird how one day one of the trucks' decides to throw a grid heater code out of the blue like it did. 

2 hours ago, JAG1 said:

I'm sorry about tossing you a pile of questions Marcus didn't mean to make it sound so intense there Boss.

 

You know both my trucks have the grid heaters disconnected for several years and it is very weird how one day one of the trucks' decides to throw a grid heater code out of the blue like it did. 

No problem friend. Just getting time time to post back. 

Everything is in the affirmative that you asked. They are brand new except they have 2 hrs run time in them from a fellow member using them only to break in a new motor.

Ummm... OBDLink shouldn't just stop with a P1693 code. It should show more. Just for a test pull the coolant temp sensor lead and trip an error code and re-read the error codes.

 

 

Marcus, I hope you find the problems. I'm interested in hearing about it when you have time.  Another question........ did you get new copper washers for the only two hours used, but new injectors when you installed them? I'd bet that you did and Dripley be over my house with Armored truck to pay me 

17 minutes ago, JAG1 said:

Marcus, I hope you find the problems. I'm interested in hearing about it when you have time.  Another question........ did you get new copper washers for the only two hours used, but new injectors when you installed them? I'd bet that you did and Dripley be over my house with Armored truck to pay me 

Yep I did all new washers and o rings. Sometimes it runs good but other times it will literally start knocking. 

WhT causes a fuel knock normally? I never had this with my old dap injectors so it’s got to be something with my install. 

I can only make a suggestion to put your old ones back in and see what happens. Something is affecting timing perhaps?!. I just don't know, but it was running beautiful before wasn't it? That's the strongest clue we have to go on.

Edited April 27, 20195 yr by JAG1

I have experienced a fuel knock on mine. First on my Rv's with about 120k on them. The next time on the 50's I replaced them with with ahout 60 or 70k on them. From reading here I always thought it was from pop pressure getting weak. Mine was not constant either, heard it the most when stopping at red light while cruising around town or getting off the interstate. If I understand it right the weaker pop pressure will advance the timing on that one cylinder and hence the knock??? I dont know that for sure, just my feeble attempt to understand it. My knock would would go away after 15 or so seconds off idling.

1 hour ago, JAG1 said:

Dripley be over my house with Armored truck to pay me 

Thatbwould be more like the armored moped. Cash is tight these days. 

Bad pop pressure, sticking injectors, etc. Another is excessively cold IAT will raise timing fairly steep. Make sure to run MPG mode.

 

Too bad you gave up on the Quad.

Thanks for chiming in. Its frustrating putting work into your truck, all the time thinking, 'how nice its going to run', but then something like this happens. No big deal really.... just have to keep trying.

Edited April 27, 20195 yr by JAG1

8 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

 Too bad you gave up on the Quad.

I have to agree you gave up pretty quick. But the complexities of learning it is holding me back somewhat. That and cash. Between the head gasket replacement, injectors, new tires and such, I spent about $3k. Got to pay that off first.  

1 minute ago, dripley said:

I have to agree you gave up pretty quick. But the complexities of learning it is holding me back somewhat. That and cash. Between the head gasket replacement, injectors, new tires and such, I spent about $3k. Got to pay that off first.  

Dripley, sometimes it would be better to run around in a moped wouldn't it?

2 minutes ago, JAG1 said:

Dripley, sometimes it would be better to run around in a moped wouldn't it?

I could probably buy a nice used on for what I spent on the tires.

 

But before I jumped into the HG replacement I kept looking under the hood thinking of how bad I could screw this up. But this, like other things I have tackled, went well with the help and encouragement of the folks here. You cant beat the satifaction from doing it yourself. About 1800 miles on the HG and all is well.

 

Gang in there @Marcus2000monster. This will turn out good.

Sorry fellas been busy and injured all at once. Sprained my foot and can’t even drive the 24 valve right now cause using the clutch really hurts. I asked Mark at dieseltuff.com about my issues and he said 99% of the time the cause of trucks not running or sounding like a 24 valve shouldnis not related to injectors at all. I think I need to ensure they’re is no air intrusion somewhere first and go from they’re. What do you suggest I try after that? Video don’t really do justice to showing y’all the difference in sound between trucks or I would post up a video. Thanks 

You've got a FASS I'm an assuming you got the Parker Push-Lock fittings right? You didn't use any sealing tape or compounds on the threads right?

41 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

You've got a FASS I'm an assuming you got the Parker Push-Lock fittings right? You didn't use any sealing tape or compounds on the threads right?

That’s correct. It is hard to believe but at our shop my boss claims that 8/10 fads systems he has done make more air in fuel than it can remove because of so much fuel returning that the truck can’t use. I may hook up a different pump or some clear line to see if it really is that though I doubt it... I don’t recall using any thread seal. Maybe I should just redo my fuel system and go thru all the lines and fittings and double check everything?

My AD has both return lines and the pick up in basket. Been that way for 8 years now. The pick up is on the bottom and the returns are about 2.5" above. I run tank down to about 3 gallons left on a regular basis and not once has the truck acted any different full or low. Not saying that is not your problem just my experience with my truck. On mine I would more suspicious of suction side of the pump.

2 hours ago, Marcus2000monster said:

I asked Mark at dieseltuff.com about my issues and he said 99% of the time the cause of trucks not running or sounding like a 24 valve shouldnis not related to injectors at all.

What did he think it was

My return is the filler neck then I'm old school draw straw. No sump and not using stock pickup basket.

Mile I am plumbed exactly the way you are. Mark didn’t say what he thought it was.