Last night grabbing mail across the road before going up the drive the truck revved and died.  No cel rough running or any weird issues besides an extra second or two of crank time while attempting to start over the last week.  At this point it is scheduled to be towed to my mechanic on Friday he can't get to it till next week Wednesday, and I need wheels and the pump will have to be ordered.  So how do I diagnose a failed injection pump to help speed things along and order a new one if needs be?  Currently I'm in a no start situation with no cel's.

https://www.bluechipdiesel.com/troubleshooting-1

 

Here is some very good info on the VP and issues. 

Gotta ask a dumb question. Did you run out of fuel? I've seen fuel gauges lie and just run out of fuel. Drop about 10 gallons of fuel in and try repriming the injection pump.

 

Double check the error codes. Some of the VP44 codes don't always pop CEL. Could be another subsystem that failed making it look like a failed VP44. 

 

What is your fuel pressure like?

Fuel pressure on post filter gauge shows 21 psi no drop during crank no fuel at cracked line fuel level gauge showing 1/4 tank but I will still try adding fuel see what it does, thanks for the tips.

I'm just wondering if it just ran out of fuel first. Being that typically failed VP44 usually have error codes. It rare to have a VP44 drop dead without codes but not impossible either. 

1/4 tank issue..... 

Pretty common actually, add plenty of fuel re prime as stated, try again. 21 psi is pretty high for start up on vp44's. Anyone correct me if I'm wrong, but it should be alot lower. High psi causes hard starts, and that could be an addition with the low fuel for no start? 

Edited May 9, 20195 yr by Stanley

My fuel gauge went from reading all the way down to 1/8th tank and fuel light come on to ran out of fuel at just over 1/4 tank on the way to the fuel station. Made it half mile from fuel station, had no idea I had fuel gauge issues. Kind of embarrassing to say the least. 

I always rest trip, so I always know what I got. Plus with the quad dialed in it tells me exact amount of fuel used.

Yea... I was that way till I upgraded the firmware to 2.8.4. Worked good and was very close.

13 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Yea... I was that way till I upgraded the firmware to 2.8.4. Worked good and was very close.

Can't you go backwards 

So update, added 10 gallons of diesel tried to re-prime with no success, no fuel from any of the 4 lines I broke open. Re-checked for codes and the only one I have is my re occurring p0602 code that has been around for a couple years now, it will pop up two or three times over, so right now the code is in there twice and those are the only two codes I have on the computer.

You might have found your issue. 

Hmmm, so I can have that code for years and then the ECM just kicks the bucket with no warning....  wtf, will have to look into this, thanks.

Oh well we drug the old pick up out from along side the barn myself and two others(one crashed ls fest with a ls swapped fox body mustang) have all the parts and pieces to throw an ls in the old chubby, time to take some load off the big truck that needs lots of TLC.

It is possible. It only takes a second of something out out of whack to throw the code. It begins intermittently until it fails completely. Lets see what some of the others have to say.

Double checking you don't have Smarty Tuner running right? Normal to see that code if you have a Smarty Tuner. Not normal to see the error code as a stock truck.

Not anymore just an xzt.

Come to think of it nothing has been cleared since I removed the Smarty could that be a residual?

40 warm up cycles to clear an error code. You have to go from below 140 coolant temperature to above 165 coolant temperature 40 times to count as one warm up cycle without tripping the very same code over again. Typically about a months time of daily driving to clear an code. So how long has the Smarty been gone?

Edited May 10, 20195 yr by Mopar1973Man

3 weeks, injection pump was bad Darrell got to it today I have other issues as well.  Could someone explain to me how I could bend a valve when the pump fails with an injector feed valve on pump stuck open?  Apparently head has to come off.... first time in 385,000 miles 

After doing more research I'm only more confused, the valve must have been damaged for awhile and is not at all related to the injection pump.  During crank over you can here the leak by.

Yea, possibly it was already tweaked/bent and finally went... 

It's possible guides are wore and some carbon got in there causing valve to stick. Check push rods too.