So it seems this is the summer where all the problems start showing, leaking p.s. pump, passenger axel seal leak,  front brakes, and now tie rod ends. Not enough time in a day to adress it, but will be making time here pretty quick.

 

So I know there is a 4th gen conversion I can do for the t style setup, but is it worth it? I still have 16s on my truck, so I'd have to grind off a knuckle or two for it to fit right?

 

What's the price for one and who would be a reputable vendor for it? 

 

And are there any problems to worry about with the 4th gen setup? Like recalls and such?

 

Other wise I saw Luke's links has all four greasable ones I can install for about 255 bucks.

I'm sure napa has some cheapy garbage, but I've about had it with cheap parts not lasting at all.    (just replaced water pump again 2 years after  already fixing it with a new one, not rebuilt, Napa brand(gates))

 

Still running 265s on my truck too, nothing oversized that would be hard on the front end. I would like to upgrade to 17s 4th gen wheels, but that's someday in the future.

I dunno x2

Ac Delco ball joints and drag link here along with NAPA trac bar and TRE. My Spicer ball joints lasted a whole 12k. I won't use that junk again. I have a pair of their axle joints laying on the shelf and I'm scared to put them in. I'll probably sell them.

19 minutes ago, dave110 said:

My Spicer ball joints lasted a whole 12k. I won't use that junk again.

 

Why not? That was Dodge OEM parts.

 

Oh, that's right OEM isn't what it was 17 years ago. 

 

20 minutes ago, dave110 said:

I have a pair of their axle joints laying on the shelf and I'm scared to put them in.

 

I would. Winter is coming and 4WD usage will go up and sucks to do these in the cold.

Nothing is, not even me. 20 years ago for mine.

 

Mine are not bad yet. I bought these when I did the ball joints the first time figuring while I'm in there anyway. Originals are still good but when I go to replace them I think I'll e-bay the Spicers and get some Delcos. That stuff seems to be holding up well for me.

 

Fire wood heated garage. No more freezing this guys a** off . Been there done that.

Edited September 11, 20195 yr by dave110

I'm looking at these. What do you guys think?

 

Otherwise, maybe Napas more expensive brand?

Why is Rock Auto much cheaper than the autoparts ones?

I think you'd do good with those. Mine are doing well but I don't have a ton of miles on them  either. Rock Auto buys closeouts and bulk deals and gets better pricing that way. I've already bought struts from them that said unmarked package or something like that and when I opened the plain box there were NAPA pro's inside.

Ball joints still give me headaches. My Moog are still holding for now after 240k. If I replace them again it should be the last time.

Tie rods are in, trackbar replaced, and things keep piling up.

 

I have to keep and eye on the tierod, its doesnt have the curve my stock one had, and seems to get real close to the diff. Cover.

 

Does anyone know if the bilstein 5100 stabilizer will fit the second gen dodge? It looks just like the one I pulled off my truck today. Its attached differently compared to my dad's 99, his is u-bolted to the tierod, while mine goes into it.

 

Also, the shaft coming from the steering box to the pitman arm is loose, which probably means I'm going to be doing the redhead quicker than I wanted. 

When I do that, should I get the steering brace also?

 

This sucks, my front end will literally be torn apart and rebuilt by the time I'm done.(axel seals and ball joints next, plus front brakes.) No oversized tires, no crazy driving or off roading, just a piece of crap front end prone to failure, and a hole in my wallet

I'll agree that the steering isnt the best design.  But for 244 k its survived. It's just now time to do maintenance. 

 

I'm not huge on the steering brace. It may or may not help but it definitely will not keep the frame from flexing. Might just be money and no benefit. Some say they work amazing. But so is mine with no brace at 312k.

 

Keep in mind the front of truck and engine then steering box on the middle.  Whatever flex is there is already being faught in front and behind the box.

 

New parts most likely wont take the truck to 488k because they're junk these days but they will go along time.

 

Youl probly suck all the oil off the air filter though. Lol. Joking

On 9/13/2019 at 11:15 PM, Evan said:

I'm not huge on the steering brace. It may or may not help but it definitely will not keep the frame from flexing. Might just be money and no benefit. Some say they work amazing. But so is mine with no brace at 312k.

 

Never had a brace... Never had any steering issues. 

I have had mine both ways and did not notice any difference.

Tie rods done, ball joints done, front u joints and brakes done. I still need to do the axel seal on passenger side. I have the seal, but it doesnt look like the original one in there. And the one I looked at on torque kings website (the whole kit) looks smaller than what napa gave me. Has anyone replaced there seal with a napa one and was it just different looking than stock?

 

Also the powersteering pump is leaking l, and I'm not sure from what fitting or if its between the vacuum and steering pump. Would it be best to just replace the whole pump, or reseal it?

I bet your trucks driving much better . Always feels good to make it nice again.

 

You might do a vacumn seal kit and replace steering pump in one wack if truck has alot of miles.

 

I'm not sure I'd mess with rebuilding a steering pump 

 

I did my vacumn seal and didnt put a new pump on now I'm dumping atf in my pump ever couple hundred miles. 

 

Check to make sure it's not hose or fitting that's easily fixable if it is in fact the pump that's leaking upgrade it 

 

https://www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/800328/

Edited October 29, 20195 yr by Evan

If its leaking between the two pumps, then I might as well replace the steering pump then?

Vaccuum pump holds pressure, but if I'm taking it apart, I might as well replace all vaccuum pump seals while I'm ahead.

Vacumn pump will function but still leak motor oil 

On 10/28/2019 at 1:49 PM, Alexio Auditore said:

Also the powersteering pump is leaking l, and I'm not sure from what fitting or if its between the vacuum and steering pump. Would it be best to just replace the whole pump, or reseal it?

If pump is still working, personally I would buy a reseal kit for vacuum and steering pump and do it myself, as quality of reman stuff is crap anymore. 

https://www.fixinrams.com/seal-kit12-section.html

He has starter rebuild kits also, I got all my stuff from him.