Bits and pieces of this are in 2 different places here so i decided to start a new thread on this. I'll list all prices and where i bought everything at the end. I'm doing this as cheap as i can, but the way i think will be most problem free. If you see something i did wrong or need to change let me know.

  I started with a used exhaust flange and vacuum cylinder. Took a few days to get the butterfly free and cleaned up but its working now. I had to buy a vacuum solenoid and i am using push to connect fittings and line for most of it. Reason for this is if i have to change to an air cylinder i wont have to change my plumbing.

 Amazon should have the rest of my parts here by Sunday so until then I'll figure out mounting locations and build the wiring harness. 

Here is a real time picture of that from my 2002 3500.  I sooooo want an exhaust brake!  Looking forward to that day.

 

 

This is BD 

Two different flanges

@Dieselfuture Looks sweet!  I see what looks like a temp probe in that port on the side of the exh brake. What is that line coming of the top of the exhuast manifold pre-turbo? Is that another temp probe?

Hes got pre and post EGT's.

 

6 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Hes got pre and post EGT's.

 

Awesome. I'd be interested to see the delta T spread on that under wot uphill towing a heavy trailer.

 

I have one egt temp probe but haven't set it up yet.  @Mopar1973Man Which location would be best if I'm just setting up one egt probe?

I edited the wiring diagram in the exhaust brake article to show diode placement. 

 @Ironforger pre turbo shows more accurate cylinder temp. Post turbo is usually said to be about 200°F cooler. If I'm off on that number someone will correct me.

5 hours ago, Gregturley said:

@gimmie11s that's the exhaust housing for 94-02 according to Pacbrake. If you have a turbo that has a one piece flange you have to change to C14098 Adapter, #8 in parts list in pdf L1018.pdf from Pacbrake.

 Its the same part on the older turbos so if you have one or can find one just swap it to your turbo.

 

Fantastic thank you.. Ill check that out.

2 hours ago, Ironforger said:

@Dieselfuture Looks sweet!  I see what looks like a temp probe in that port on the side of the exh brake. What is that line coming of the top of the exhuast manifold pre-turbo? Is that another temp probe?

Yhea I have 2 probes before and after, don't really need the after one but I had it so I used it. Usually 100-200 degree different, after is cooler. I thought about putting a plug back in BD instead of probe and save the probe for later but then it's like nah I have it might as well use it.

My Banks came with that extra port also.

So.....my experiment continues. I added a vacuum actuator to pull the throttle valve (kick down) wide open on exhaust brake application. This will max out line pressure when the exhaust brake is on. Teed into the apply vacuum line and used a vacuum actuator from a crown vic and a bike hand brake cable. Drilled a small hole in the tv arm and made a bracket to mount the vacuum actuator. Used some old Holley carb mechanical choke parts to clamp down the cable. Zip tied to trans cross member for testing. This was all crap i had in the garage. Initial testing looks good. Everything moves freely both directions.

Edited March 29, 20205 yr by Gregturley

Luckily I know nothing about automatic transmission bit what you're doing....  may be on to something 

Can you post the line pressures when decelerating with and with out the TV vacuum solenoid activated and the TC locked up? 

The actuator i used is for the ac system on a late model vic. God knows how long it will last under the truck but i have a near endless supply of them.  I mounted it as far away heat as i could. Thinking this may help when using a stock valve body. I was thinking about buying a Dynamic valve body with my Trump money but I've got my buddy Thompson whispering in my ear.

Guess i have a decision to make soon.

@IBMobile I'll see what I can do with that.

That's a hard one;  shoot or scoot.

At 20" vacuum this actuator lifted and held a 20 pound brake rotor for about a half hour. I was surprised with how strong it is. 

Great idea!!! Lots of useful info in this thread...

Whats going on guys?  OP how i your brake working?

 

Question... I scored a NOS pacbrake complete kit off of Offerup tonight for $300.  It appears everything is there including s a throttle switch  which im assuming could be used in place of your ECM 20 pin trigger.  However, the instructions i have look like this is for a P pump truck.

 

Any idea if what i have will work?

 

 

@gimmie11s good score. Yes it will work but they changed the throttle switch from one that mounts underhood to one that mounts inside on the gas pedal. Im sure you could make it work easy enough because all it has to do is close the switch at idle and open it as soon as the throttle moves. Download the pdf that i linked. Its the updated instructions.

 Can you get a good clear up close pic of the vacuum solenoid please? Id like to see the numbers on that one.

 My brake works fine. The vacuum valve to jack up line pressure, not so much. I screwed something up and i think its in the valve body. Don't try it.  Haven't had time to check it out yet but i just ordered a Dynamic valve body the day before i hurt it  so I'll probably just park it until it gets here. 

13 hours ago, Gregturley said:

@gimmie11s good score. Yes it will work but they changed the throttle switch from one that mounts underhood to one that mounts inside on the gas pedal. Im sure you could make it work easy enough because all it has to do is close the switch at idle and open it as soon as the throttle moves. Download the pdf that i linked. Its the updated instructions.

 Can you get a good clear up close pic of the vacuum solenoid please? Id like to see the numbers on that one.

 My brake works fine. The vacuum valve to jack up line pressure, not so much. I screwed something up and i think its in the valve body. Don't try it.  Haven't had time to check it out yet but i just ordered a Dynamic valve body the day before i hurt it  so I'll probably just park it until it gets here. 

 

Thanks.. my truck is a manual so i wont mess withe line pressure deal...

 

Here you go

 

@Gregturley i found something interesting.  There is a warning label on my brake telling me this unit i have (part number C14000AT) is for automatic trans trucks only and that using it on a manual would harm the engine.  My truck is a manual so that got me wondering if the brake you have is for an auto or manual and is there really a difference?

 

Both of these brakes (yours and mine) are for 12v trucks with the weaker exhaust valve springs.  Fair enough.  My bigger question was what is the difference between the two brakes?

 

Looking at your pictures, ive found the answer.  You actually have a manual trans exhaust brake.  The orifice on your butterfly that is NOT plugged with a bolt/nut is 31/64" and much larger than the same orifice on my butterfly.

 

Both brakes have 2 holes drilled into the butterflys.  One of the 2 holes is a beveled hole that can be plugged with a nut/bolt (like yours) for more braking power once the theoretical 12v truck owner upgrades his exhaust valved springs.  The OTHER hole is specific to the manual trucks and the auto trucks.  The auto trucks have much smaller 2nd hole (around 1/4").  That manual versions have a much larger second hole of around 31/64" like yours.

 

Long story short, i should probably plug my 1st hole and drill out the second hole to match yours.

 

You should weld and re-drill your 2nd hole to a smaller size for better braking power.

 

Here are a couple pics

 

[url=https://postimg.cc/PvYGcQJm][img]https://i.postimg.cc/rsY8DhLY/pbrake.jpg[/img][/url]

[url=https://postimg.cc/8FYXdf4M][img]https://i.postimg.cc/KzcX2ngq/pbrake-warning.jpg[/img][/url]

 

https://postimg.cc/PvYGcQJm
https://postimg.cc/8FYXdf4M
 

 

 

 

Edited April 6, 20205 yr by gimmie11s