I know this has been asked before prolly more than once I need a fuel pressure guage and I want it to be accurate but would like to keep just the fuel pressure guage cost less than 150 because I still would like to have some reserve for a new fuel pump if needed now the interesting thing is when ever I check pressure overnite here at hom its always at twelve and stays there engine off and its been that way since i got it I have removed the pump and wrapped it to the best of my abbity with header wrap and I would say I'm yet to have a problem after puting 150,000 on this pump I am starting to get concerned and yes the truck is pretty much so stock just home grown mods to improve chassis stiffness and brakeing upgrades at least she stops like a sports car any suggestions for where to buy and if I replace my pump I plan to go with a Holley pump that I piece a kit together soley for the fact that myself my father and his father can all speak for Holley considering they ran a drag team and wenever a pump went bad a Holley rep came out to see what was up and it apears cheaper and yes I accept Air dog as being a succesful upgrade I just cant justify cost if you get the filters and all if you know what I mean and yes I pull trailers and work the piss out of my baby but I dont plan on haveing a 400 hp rig just a mild mannered 300ish hp rig based on needs for pulling power it looses speed on nething greater than 6percent for over a mile with 8k behind her thats a fix for after the tranny bill:banghead: still considering a nv4500 so neone that knows of a parts truck I've got the cash and you ought to be able to do it for 2500-3000 with a s/b clutch and comp reflash and a month in the shop versus 7k and a trip to iowa for for a built auto what do you guys think any and all help and info is greatly appreichiated

I got my di pricol optix mechanical 30psi fp gauge, column mount, banjo bolt and tubing kit for under $115 shipped to my door. I did not use an isolator but got a weather head needle valve from napa, part # WH6820 for about $15. I set it up like Mike and never had any leaks.

thanks a bunch thats reassuring I just need to find a place that actually has them lol for less than a hundo for just the guage no wires or tubing kit.

--- Update to the previous post...

Found a decent website for dipricol guage ordering one on monday from http://www.hollandcourtsales.com/Gauges.htm unless yall got a better idea his 140 dollar kit has an isolater in it that I didnt really want but I'll make it work lol let me know if you guys got any other suggestions they are always greatly appreichiated

He wont sell you a settup without the isolator? I got mine from Wally at FTE diesel, I think the gauge is around $40.

--- Update to the previous post...

I just checked his site and he didnt have them but give him a call. I know a while back they were on hold for some reason. If you cant get di pricol, look at isspro.

--- Update to the previous post...

Here is their site, they might be able to tell you where you can buy them.

http://www.danininc.com/

Yeah DiPricols were the cheapest gauge at $40 bucks but the rumor I'm hearing is that there is problems at DiPricol itsself. ISSPro is also a good gauge as well... Autometer is the most expensive gauge...

I have a 0-30 psi electric Pricol that has been great, was about $130 shipped from FTE. I know many folks on here have no issues with mechanical w/out isolators into the cab, but I have zero desire to pump fuel into my cab, nor to pump anti-freeze into the cab.

Thanks a bunch for the info I think I might save the extra 50 bucks and go eletric just because im a chicken and i dont need antifreeze or nething in my cab I got enough problems as is another random question the front suspension was completly rebuilt last week half of which was covered with the Moog lifetime stuf that failed and the other half i had to pay for and not I've got a pop that I hear when going from off pavement to on pavement and when i hit good bumps the suspension checked out fine I was back ther with the guys and they sponsor and work on race vehicles so they know ther stuff and I trust them we did find a crossmember that crosses the front of the gas tank had one screw snapped in half and the member was cracked in the center its a real flimsy thing and it goes frame rail to frame rail and appears to be attached with four bolts I dont think this is the problem but they speculated ther is flexing going on in the frame and ther may be a crack somewhere any thoughts would be much apprechiated I have looked and found nothing but that messed up crossmember

Thanks a bunch for the info I think I might save the extra 50 bucks and go eletric just because im a chicken and i dont need antifreeze or nething in my cab I got enough problems as is another random question the front suspension was completly rebuilt last week half of which was covered with the Moog lifetime stuf that failed and the other half i had to pay for and not I've got a pop that I hear when going from off pavement to on pavement and when i hit good bumps the suspension checked out fine I was back ther with the guys and they sponsor and work on race vehicles so they know ther stuff and I trust them we did find a crossmember that crosses the front of the gas tank had one screw snapped in half and the member was cracked in the center its a real flimsy thing and it goes frame rail to frame rail and appears to be attached with four bolts I dont think this is the problem but they speculated ther is flexing going on in the frame and ther may be a crack somewhere any thoughts would be much apprechiated I have looked and found nothing but that messed up crossmember

if you replaced any trailing arm bushings ive found that if there torqued down while the suspension is sagging i.e. tire off the ground, the bushing will bind when set down and cause mystery pops.

They did not change them to my knowledge but I will check today thanks much it is kinda concerning to me because I cant find any visual problem and even after checking the suspension over i couldnt seem to find an answer but I will most definatly jack it up and try to flex my tire I have concluded it is drivers front tire making the noise if it is in the suspension. any thoughts on how you can crack that flimsy little crossmember Im suprised with any force that the thing would stay in ther and not just get peeled off like a pop top thanks much and as always thoughts are always apprechiated

you would probably be suprised at how much chassis flex is actually in these trucks especially concidering the wheel base, to crack a small cross member while towing heavy or getting the truck in a bind over a life time is probably not that uncommon

you would probably be suprised at how much chassis flex is actually in these trucks especially concidering the wheel base, to crack a small cross member while towing heavy or getting the truck in a bind over a life time is probably not that uncommon

I agree... I have a friend with a 97 OBS 7.3L, I think his frame flexes more than his suspension!

suprising I thought they were rather stiff but i can see were it flexing could be common occurance esspecially when I haul our jobsite trailer that is about 8k and we leave that on new construction sites and lets just say there isnt a road yet so we go through ditch fields you name it and the last thing I thought about was how much damage you can do by driving your truck up a 70 degree ditch enbankment owell we learn from our mistakes mopar wants over 300 for the crossmember if anyone elses gives up the ghost I will be reproducing one from aluminum for like 150 depending on type of aluminum, a metal fabricator says aluminum flexes more assuming you get the right type... off to find out more about aluminum thanks a bunch. btw I've got a fuell pressure guage on the way thanks a bunch guys the thoughts are always apprechiated