416k miles and my fuel gauge wigged out and dropped to EMPTY and set the low fuel light. 

 

The part number is still valid and the total cost has gone up since the article. Now the price is $108 for a new float sender for the fuel tank same one as before but just extra $30. Fun is I'll pull the fuel line from the VP44 and just pump out the fuel tank into 5 gallon buckets. Just got to jumper the AirDog 150 relay and allow the pump to do its job. 

 

Oh yeah I pulled up the Juniper bush at the corner of my drive way. While having fun with this I managed to pop a wheel joint cap loose. Broke the cir-clip and the cap slide out. I'll most likely just order a -joint and just redo that one. Even though the bearings are fine and still greased. 

So just got started... Pull the fuel line from the rear of my stock fuel filter and routed to holding buckets. Then created a jumper wire to run the AirDog till it pumps the tank dry.

 

 

As you can see I've got it pumping the fuel out of the tank into large buckets. 

 

Is changing a front u-joint as much work as I think it is? I rarely use 4WD but think at least one is giving me popping as I make the rare tight turn. And driver's seal is leaking pretty good.

 

Not looking forward to that job, but don't want to pay what I think it would cost at a shop. Not many independents around here.

It is as much as changing your hub bearings. If yours have never been changed then that adds a hole new layer of fun.

$70 here:

 

https://www.genosgarage.com/product/04897669ab/fuel-tank-components

I like doing business with Geno's garage. 

7 hours ago, dripley said:

It is as much as changing your hub bearings. If yours have never been changed then that adds a hole new layer of fun.

That job was handled 50k miles ago, with much anti-sieze applied, so hopefully that won't be a bear.  To change the seal you have to pull the whole carrier from the the housing, right? To change u-joints the axle shaft just needs to be released and slid out through the hub to work at the vice/bench, or do guys somehow change the joints in place?

2 hours ago, LorenS said:

That job was handled 50k miles ago, with much anti-sieze applied, so hopefully that won't be a bear.  To change the seal you have to pull the whole carrier from the the housing, right? To change u-joints the axle shaft just needs to be released and slid out through the hub to work at the vice/bench, or do guys somehow change the joints in place?

 I replaced both front u joints sversl years ago and IIRC the joints will not come thru the hubs. I was in doing the front brakes when l discovered a bad one and just did them both while l was in there. As long put anti seize on the hubs they should come right out, mine always removed easy except the first time.

 

As far as the seals l have never done one. From reading here l believe you can get to one of them with gears in place but not the other. Which one l dont remember.

5 minutes ago, dripley said:

joints will not come thru the hubs

Oh my!  So does a guy have to remove the whole hub, like doing ball joints?!

25 minutes ago, LorenS said:

Oh my!  So does a guy have to remove the whole hub, like doing ball joints?!

No! By hub I mean the bearing. The steeting knuckle stays on. Just remove the hub bearing and the drive shaft will come thru the knuckle.

Ah yes, I was using incorrect terminology. Thank you, Dripley!

You are welcome sir.

Here is the rest of it... The old float wore enough to slide up the arm so the rod just dropped to empty. 

Drawstraw still in a good position after 300k miles and not been messed with. No issues either. 

 

 

Take notice there is a plug in the bottom of the sender. It has a red tab lock and squeeze and pull loose. Then the plug has a retainer in the face. Using a pair of needle nose pull it out. Then carefully using a screwdriver and hold the lock back and carefully pull the leads from the plug. 

 

There is a hole where the wires are routed back up. Remember to route first before doing the plug!

 

If you look close you'll see the little lock there. Pry or push it just a bit out of the notch and it slides down to remove. Reverse to install.

I've already got the tank hung in the bands just getting frustrated with the drawstraw JIC connection. There is just enough hose but can't quite line up the threads and get it started. 

 

Only enough room for one hand. Already hot outside and 90*F here. Taking a break and going to try again later on that. 

I gotta do that float change one of days, under 1/2 tank it’s a guessing game..

11 hours ago, Towrigdually said:

I gotta do that float change one of days, under 1/2 tank it’s a guessing game..

 

Most likely the rheostat on the sender is wore through my first one failed that way... My 1996 Dodge is got a bad spot between 3/4 to 7/8 of a tank drops to EMPTY. Below that shows correctly too.

I'm glad you posted this.  I changed mine and now get low fuel light. But poured 15 gallon back in.  Not worried as haven't started truck in 2 yrs now.  I'll see what problem is maybe later this summer.  

Also wondered why elec components submerged in flammable liquid dont go a great big kaboom if ever a spark.  Thinking no oxygen?  

 

 

 

Edited July 19, 20204 yr by 015point9
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Just remember you can throw matches at diesel fuel all day long and never get it to light off. Diesel fuel need to be heated above flash point to created vapor. Typically around 150 to 160*F.