@IBMobilethis question is for you. The solenoid you recommended (ss598) is a different style than the one you used. Does this matter? Seemed to work fine when I first installed then me wife took truck out of town and commented on how hard it was to start. Solenoid doesn’t work now. Any ideas? Did I just get the wrong part or...??

4 hours ago, Royal Squire said:

@IBMobilethis question is for you. The solenoid you recommended (ss598) is a different style than the one you used. Does this matter? Seemed to work fine when I first installed then me wife took truck out of town and commented on how hard it was to start. Solenoid doesn’t work now. Any ideas? Did I just get the wrong part or...??

Both relays are rated for 300 amps.  The difference beside how they look is the SS-598 is used in newer Fords and has the protective diode in it.  I used the SS-581 relay in JAG1's truck in May of 2019 with no problems.

 

When the switch is turned on is there 12+ volts to the "S" terminal of the solenoid? 

   If no, then check for power from the fuse to switch and from switch to solenoid; repair as needed.   

   If yes, then is there battery voltage to both large terminals of the solenoid? 

   If yes, then solenoid is functioning correctly and the grid heater relays may need to be tested. 

   If no, then check ground wire from solenoid body to grounding point; this can be done with an ohm meter. 

   If open circuit, then repair ground. 

   If ground circuit tests good, then replace solenoid.   

Solenoid doesn’t work and smells burnt. 

Either the grid heaters are using more amps than the solenoid is rated for, the solenoid is defective or that solenoid is not up to the task.

Does it matter which large  terminal battery power is connected to?

3 hours ago, Royal Squire said:

Does it matter which large  terminal battery power is connected to?

 

This is how Ford does it.  The "I" terminal is not used in this application.

 

 

 

That’s how I had it wired. Guess I’ll start over 

Just a to point out something that happened to me... 

 

I've got a permanent magnet train generator on my pelton wheel generator. Now I using a full wave rectifier on both outputs. I've got just mere 15 Amp fuse in the line. Now I wanted to control the generator with my house inverter has got a tiny little 5A relay. Using the 12V battery system and Ford Starter Solenoid. Now the little inverter relay controlled the Ford Solenoid (constant duty). This was just fine. First operation of it it clapped closed and the voltage started to rise like it should hit it charged state. Inverter dropped the relay and the Ford Solenoid opened. The generator had enough energy and not enough air gap it continued to arc and burn. It burned up the Ford solenoid in mere seconds smoking. Then back fed the inverter and burned up the control relay as well. For what ever reason that solenoid doesn't have enough air gap and the arc continues internally. Might be what happened here hence why the burnt smell.

I got a new solenoid under warranty and will try again. 

Not to get off topic, but the pictures are missing from the simplified bypass write-up.

21 minutes ago, gipperkid said:

Not to get off topic, but the pictures are missing from the simplified bypass write-up.

Link to the write up?

 

1 minute ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Link to the write up?

 

Pfff...now the pictures are there. I swear they weren't there yesterday.

With the server screwed up in the MySQL database and missing information I had to more or less REBOOT the database with fresh data from the software. Noiw things are working correctly. 

I did my Grid Heater By-Pass using a SS581. (It's a great modification that will reduce unnecessary demands on the electrical system and I don't have to

disconnect my Grid Heaters in the Spring).

 

Mine works great, but I want to change my SS581 to a "protected" relay.

Call me gun shy but anything that threatens the electrical system is a no-go with me.

Is there another "Protected"  relay besides the SS598 that can be used?  The reviews on the

SS598 are horrible.  

 

Thanks.

 

Leaky

3 hours ago, Leaky88 said:

reviews on the

SS598 are horrible.  

I don't know which reviews you're viewing, but most of the bad reviews on one Amazon listing were from people who bought the wrong one, as if that has anything to do with the product itself.

 

That 598 has a 3 year warranty, rated for 300A.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ECHST641?cid=paidsearch_shopping_dcoe_google&campaign=GSC-Alternators-Starters&campaign_id=6503920054&adgroup_id=73349362010&adtype=pla_with_promotion&gclid=Cj0KCQiAkuP9BRCkARIsAKGLE8UfzATR-34_3v6aDotoU2ZMJm0_JvP_583YKLXHFxragovGA4gWJXMaAiBuEALw_wcB

 

Here is the NAPA version I could most likely pick up for even less under my account discount.

Mike,

Thank you very much for a valid response to my question. Appreciate it!

Not a problem...

17 hours ago, Leaky88 said:

 

 

1 hour ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Here is the NAPA version

Likely a Standard Motor Products product, so if one thinks they can't build a relay, probably shouldn't buy one in a different box.

https://www.smpcorp.com/en/news/corporate-news/smp-named-2013-vendor-of-the-year-by-napa-under-hood-group

Personally, it's exactly what I'd buy because I think they make good stuff if you buy the right product line.

Some OE electrical parts were made by SMP. Cruise control switches for one.