My truck has a small oil leak, just a drop or two at a time but I was told it appears to be from the back side of the timing cover.  I'm contemplating having the leak fixed and I figured if the cam has to come out to do it, possibly toss in a different one.  I was looking at the Colt cams stage 3 or Big stick as I think it was called.  Is anyone using one of these or know someone who is?  Just curious if it was worth it.  

Just saw the other post regarding the big stick, lol. 

If you have the $$ to blow then sure if you are already in there.  However the stock one isn't terrible.

I remember @cajflynn installed a Hamilton Cam and he said he loved the power change. I don't remember exactly the style of cam. 

For daily driving, honestly, stock or a 178/208 at most is all you need. Big turbo or racing is when the famous 188/220 comes around to help spool turbos. It also pulls the power band up higher in the rpm range. Due to the semi hard limits of the vp44, the 188/220 is too high up in the rpm range to make good use of the cams effective range. 

 

Even the guys on compd say to put money towads other upgrades before a cam. Most of the time they say to port and polish the head before putting a cam in.

The colt cams big stick is 181/210 with .280/.307 lift and 106* of lobe separation.  They are advertising a 200* drop in EGT and 2-3mpg increase.  It's supposed to be good up to 4k rpm but they suggest springs if spinning over 3k rpm.  I don't see that being an issue, I don't really hot rod around in this thing anymore, I drive more like my father every day, lol.  I called Big Twin today to get an estimate, it's a little more than I wanted to spend but still doable.  I'd be getting the case leak fixed and having them redo the tappet cover gasket as well since they are already in there.  They have everything in stock, even the cam.  I'd told them I'd have to think about it for a bit.  

 

To me, i think it will be too big of a cam. S300 and 7x009s arent big enough in my opinion to need that big of a cam. You are also mentioning not needing the rpm capabilities of it. I just dont want you to spend money on something that is not matched to driving style and build. The stage 2 I think would be better for your purposes. You could also call and ask colt, hamilton, and like no limit mfg for their recommendations. 

 

The hard part is cams move as well as add to the hp curve. Going too big in a cam can pull the low end (off idle power) down and raise high end but also push the curve higher in the rpm range.. possibly a more narrow rpm band with a peaky, less broad torque curve.

 

And a reminder, no diesel (except a non turbo, i think) will cam like a gasser from a cam swap. That needs manifold vacuum and overlap.

Edited June 15, 20222 yr by Silverwolf2691

I'm a huge camshaft guy. I've had custom cams ground for almost everything I own, and have owned for decades. The right camshaft is at the heart of any good engine setup. Would I go through all the trouble to cam a B-series Cummins with your current mods if I didn't need to pull the camshaft for other reasons? Not in a million years. There are so many other mods that would come before a camshaft. Would I put a cam in it if I had to pull the camshaft for other reasons and I had the $$$ to do so? Absolutely...!

Valid points, looking at the stage 2 it most likely would be better for my current set up.  I wouldn't spend this much money simply for just a cam swap either, it's one of those "while it's apart" kind of deals.  I'd like to get the leak fixed and unfortunately it's an expensive one to do which makes me hate spending that money just for a leak.  That's why if a cam makes sense I'd have it done at the same time to justify the expense and get more than just a clean driveway in the end.  I would also hate to have a cam put in and be totally underwhelmed/disappointed.   I will make a few calls and see what the manufacturers think. 

I really wish they would have made the gear easier to remove from the cam. They should have left the fuel pump lobe on the 24V too. I guess you could turn the truck upside down to fix the leak.

Mechanical pump are only 15% efficient being pumps as the lobe rolls away. Another reason I will not suggest a mechanic stock pump. Also most running p-pump had to upgrade to AirDog or similar to get thevolume that the stock mechanical can't do.

I was watching some videos last night and had a thought.  For the cost of the cam and leaks getting fixed, I could just get the leaks fixed and get a compound setup.  The price difference is negligible.  Would I be better served going that route?  It looks like most of the kits would put an S475 over my S300.