Good day!

 

I have a friend with a cummins 2000 4wd

auto, about 230k miles and he’s got the following codes:

 

P1693 (I know it’s a companion code)

P0602 ( I think his smarty tuner throws this?)

P0252

 

The truck cranks but does not fire, no fuel Comes when he cracks the injector lines,

fuel pressure is about 19 psi at the Vp.

 

Is the P0252 a typical death code for the Vp or is there something else that can cause this?

 

Best regards 

Niklas Hansen

P0252 code...

There is no fuel signal to the fuel pin in the pump so no fuel can be injected. I'm sorry to say but your going to need to replace that VP44. I would suggest giving our site vendor a call @dieselautopower and pick up a new injection pump and just replace it. 

 

Thanks for the reply!

 

That’s what I thought, I will tell him to get that VP replaced, it’s probably never been changed.

 

I just want to make sure, there is no wiring issue that could cause this? Hot wiring the Vp would not help right?

13 minutes ago, NiklasHansen said:

I just want to make sure, there is no wiring issue that could cause this?

 

Actually you should do the the W-T ground wire mod. The AC noise issues from the charging system is the cause of the electronics failure. 

 

21 minutes ago, NiklasHansen said:

Hot wiring the Vp would not help right?

No because the PSG is damaged on the VP44 so hot wiring will net you the same results too because the fuel signal is missing.

Thanks again!

 

I will tell him to look at that AC noise mod too.

Actually I should have done that to my own truck long time ago hehe.

 

 

 The W-T ground mod will save money in the long run. Easy to do as well. Just follow the articles.

11 hours ago, NiklasHansen said:

Thanks again!

 

I will tell him to look at that AC noise mod too.

Actually I should have done that to my own truck long time ago hehe.

 

 

Hi. from the UK..... good to see someone from Europe

 

The WT mod is well worth doing 

If you do it one thing I found out, I fitted a 150amp resettable breaker to start with which lasted for over a year, I went to collect a Harley I bought a few months ago and the truck stopped charging 60 miles from home, after a check over I figured the resettable breaker had tripped and actually would not stay connected due to it making significant heat right at the breaker, I checked the charge lead back to the alternator and the alternator itself and all was cold so I just put both in/out cables onto the same stud on the breaker.

I then ordered a 200amp fuse, fuseholder and 3 spare fuses from a marine supply company, once I'd fitted this I pulled the resettable breaker to bits to see what had happened to it.

Made in China and there is no way this thing would stand 150amp, there was a peice of steel connected to the input stud and this sort of went over to the output stud but the contact area on the output side was a dimple which wasn't much bigger than an 1/8th, pathetic cheap rubbish.

If you want to go resettable buy 2 and put one in the glovebox OR find one if you can that isn't MIChina

I've got the reset-able 150 breaker for 5 years now no issues.

150-amp fuse for 5 years with no problems.  Two spare fuses in the glove box.  @W-Tsays an inline fuse/breaker is not needed and recommends not installing one.

All truck have either a fuse or fusible link. Would suck big time if the alternator short out and burn that charge lead and possible fire.

I also did the W-T ground mod, fairly recently. Wiring harness and runs feel a lot ‘cleaner’. Thats main positive for me. I still see 30mv AC while charging though. Maybe I missed something? The shorter positive lead away from other wires makes a lot of sense. And also dont realize how bad a lot of the grounds are until you get in there, so thanks.

 

Wil440 makes a good point on the marine breakers, theyre rated to a high standard, (SAE J, Coast gaurd, llyods of london, etc..) Blue sea systems makes a good product and are out of WA.

 

Ive repurposed a 135A windlass breaker, no issues so far, couple months. Havnt checked amps with a clamp yet though, maybe project for later today.

Batteries not fully drained. And wasnt full fielding alternator, saw peak of 90 amps. 4awg is fine for a short run up to about 100 amps.

 

edit: probably wouldve went for a 150 amp breaker if had one lying around. But dont see any issues, only 5A difference than stock fuse.

Edited July 8, 20222 yr by SVALIN
Amp breaker

To be fair I jump started a diesel van  few months ago and I'm sure that was the downfall of my resettable breaker, batteries on the van were blocks of wood and it started but the breaker popped, I think that messed the rather small contact area up on the output stud and over time it just generated more heat through a bad connection that eventually was too much, I had to destroy it to take a lokk, if it was bolted together it would have been easy to clean the contact area

Weird... ive must of jump started hundred of rigs with my setup never popped a breaker or the PCM protection fuse 5A on the alternator blue wire. 

 

 

4 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Weird... ive must of jump started hundred of rigs with my setup never popped a breaker or the PCM protection fuse 5A on the alternator blue wire. 

 

 

As I said though when I took a look inside my breaker the contact area on the output side was tiny and all it needed was the start of a poor connection, just got worse from there