What is a good, economical means to return the fuel to the general tank versus returning directly to the basket?  Can a guy splice a tee into the filler neck VENT?  Should I obtain the Airdog/Fass style tee that goes in the ACTUAL filler neck hose?  I'd prefer something where I don't have to drop the tank.

 

I bought a 3-way ball valve so I can seasonally return to the basket in winter, or to the tank in the summer.

It's ~75 degrees here this morning, and by the end of my 23 mile commute the fuel was over 120 degrees running empty at 65-70 mph for most of that time.  Fuel gauge at 1/2, so probably around 10 gallons in the tank.  Trip meter at 400 miles.  Two years ago my fuel was 160 degrees running empty on flat Iowa highways, so I know it gets hot.

I connected mine to the filler neck vent 'T'. I simply stepped up the rubber return line hose bigger to adapt the the fill vent nipple.

 

I was worried at first how well or how fast I would be able to fill with a blocked vent but, it's fine if you don't use a commercial nozzle used on the big rigs or you can just fill on the slowest notch.

 

My other truck with a flatbed however has the fill neck coming out the flatbed side rail, so is too level for good flow down into the tank. The return is also connected there and so I have to fill slowly but it's not annoyingly slow.

 

One day the government weights and measures man was there verifying the amount of fuel flow at the diesel pump. He told me the slower you fill the more fuel you actually get. So it's best to fill slowly. I have seen where the private fuel card lock places are turning up the speed / volume of the fuel flow. Maybe it's to help with their profit, I'm not sure. I solve that issue by using my folding pocket utility knife to hold the handle on in the slow position I need for my flatbed slow fill. I makes the pump squeak, you can hear it but, I am not the one who turned up the pumps speed so drastically.

Edited July 18, 20222 yr by JAG1

Thanks for the information I'll check it out too.

I used one of these. 
https://www.xtremediesel.com/fass-rm-1004-1-12-filler-neck-return-manifold

I used the same as above.  No need to drop the tank.

 

- John

On 7/18/2022 at 6:24 PM, Threadzy said:

I used one of these.

That was my first thought to purchase. It seems strange they don't put the bead around it like the filler neck has.

 

However, with $10 shipping I think I'm going to just tee into the 3/4" vent hose. I don't fill the truck with it running.

 

I have new tank straps coming so this will be a good opportunity to make the changes and may drop the tank anyway, just for better access. Wish I had the means at my home to just lift the bed.

49 minutes ago, LorenS said:

I have new tank straps coming so this will be a good opportunity to make the changes and may drop the tank anyway, just for better access. Wish I had the means at my home to just lift the bed.

 

Since I figure I will have my truck forever, I just modified the bed to allow access.  The top of the photo represents the front of the truck.  Many holes are drilled and tapped for easy removal.

 

So much easier to work with!

 

- John

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nice! On mine I ran steel tubing front to back underneath to help support the cut bed frame and for the access Door I used 1/4 inch diamond plate since the bed is corrugated to 1/4'' thick. It's like night and day difference having access. Made me feel like I was beating the system telling Chrysler to take a flyin' leap when I did mine.

 

We ought to come up with a kit

@TractormanWow! That is great access! That cross piece have to be cut as well? Just start the pilot holes from the bottom? Mini writeup? Seems so much easier than dropping the tank if/when theres an issue. Appreciated.

21 minutes ago, SVALIN said:

That cross piece have to be cut as well?

 

Yes.  You will note the added flat bar to hold it into place in the second photo.  As for drilling the pilot holes in the corners, I only drilled the easy one from the bottom - the other three were drilled from the top after some measuring.

 

I spent some time figuring out which places I could use bolts and nuts for fasteners and which places I would drill and tap holes for easy fastener removal later. 

 

I need to extend the fuel suction line on my truck at some point.  Now I don't dread doing the job - plus, the fuel tank can be full and it still will be an easy job to remove the fuel canister.

 

I am considering writing an article for this modification, but it will be awhile before I can get to it.  In the meantime if anyone has any questions about how to do the project, feel free to ask and I will assist as best as I can.

 

- John

Wow, I literally have the same issue currently! So haven't pulled it off but after cleaning and starting it and watching its definitely return leaking. Cracked nipple or bad fitting. My little line to the fitting is pretty stiff, what are yall doing just cutting and splicing a barbed fitting to the line then into filler neck? Might have enough room to put a threaded nipple into vent "y", don't think taking the vent line section out would be the best choice.

 

I'll have to get pics but my fill for my flatbed is just a pain in the butt to do also.  

I increased the return line size to fit the fill vent by stepping up the size of rubber hose. I sleeved over the smaller return line with a piece of larger hose and copper tubing inside to clamp the 2 together. Be better to use barbed brass that will increase the hose size but I never have seen a barbed straight that increases hose size. Probably is somewhere.

Copper should not be used. 

 

The following conditions accelerate diesel's aging process: Contact with zinc, copper, or metal alloys that contain zinc or copper. These metals react with diesel and form unstable compounds, which means there is higher potential for dangerous chemical reactions like explosions.

2 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Copper should not be used. 

 

The following conditions accelerate diesel's aging process: Contact with zinc, copper, or metal alloys that contain zinc or copper. These metals react with diesel and form unstable compounds, which means there is higher potential for dangerous chemical reactions like explosions.

weird never heard that. My 92 which I sold had an aftermarket tank level float off of an old American car. the original Dodge Plastic float disintegrated in the fuel so I adapted the copper float to the sender arm and been in there at least 20 years. I know the new owner and he's had no problem. My 02 has had the copper tube (very short piece) in there since 2006.

 

I just researched your info MoparMan, yes It is true, I had to see it for myself. Thank you for that.

 

 

Edited July 27, 20222 yr by JAG1

Well I'm gonna have to splice mine in this evening somehow. I was messing with the fitting just to make sure again it was connected. Then we'll, you know, it snapped off...

 

Guess I'll try and seal the broke end on the unit with jb weld or epoxy. Then put a nipple into the fass return tee into the fill tube.

 

Since I don't use my draw straw any more, would that be a good place to return? 

It's pipe thread ready for a nipple...

 

3 hours ago, Stanley said:

Since I don't use my draw straw any more, would that be a good place to return? 

It's pipe thread ready for a nipple...

 

As long as you don't pick up the fuel supply from anywhere near the hot returning fuel .

Take a peek IAT and fuel temp match this is normal. 

Edited July 28, 20222 yr by Mopar1973Man

I got one of the big draw straws that's further up the tank. Any how I fixed it so will see how it goes. 

Here's my little concoction

 

Plugged the broke section with a little epoxy and a screw, not proud of it but it works. Snipped off the connector end, put some new hose on with clamps and wala.

 

Not to bad, even had time to make a nice bracket to hold fill hose underbed.