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It’s time to “spring” into action!

8 leaf 4000 lb pack

2 leaf 1150 lb overloads

New shackles (All from Rockauto)

I used 4” blocks from ProForm Fabrication (they’re also tapered to get the pinion angle straight too).

I didn’t want the *** end to sit up super duper high so to compensate for the thicker pack I used slightly shorter blocks (my oem blocks are 4.5” tall). Old leaf pack is 2” thick and the new ones are 3-9/16“.

The bolt by the fuel tank is not really an issue. Just cut it off flush with the hanger and you can drive it all the way in without hitting the tank. You can fish it out with a magnet and then put the new bolt in from the outside.

I used locally made 5/8” ubolts and my old Barnes4wd top plates to keep the flip. For the eyelets I used 5/8”x 5” fine thread bolts with stover nuts. Removed the old bump stops since they do nothing now.

My truck is a 2001, so it’s time for new springs. I can’t use airbags because unless it’s the c&c kit my gooseneck hitch interferes with the mounting plates. Also the c&c kit sits on the oem block pedestals and I don’t have those anymore now.

Next up: Rebuilt NV5600 & clutch from LRG.

Enjoy!

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Edited by Mace

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  • Threadzy
    Threadzy

    Have you had a chance to tow something yet? Or are you waiting to do the trans first? A few years ago I took off my rear sway bar. To soften the suspension a bit. With my 6,000lbs travel trailer it wa

  • I have the 6 spd so I’m not changing anything that way. I’m buying a new 3 axle toyhauler that’s about 44’ long and 16k lbs. I’m gonna buy some extended Synergy rear sway bar links and the Timbrens

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Have you had a chance to tow something yet? Or are you waiting to do the trans first? A few years ago I took off my rear sway bar. To soften the suspension a bit. With my 6,000lbs travel trailer it was fine. A year a go we picked up an 8,500 dry fifth wheel. Climbing the grapevine with a little wind was not fun. Had to cruise at 35-40 mph. Not saying I could have kept going at 55 mph+ with the rear sway bar but I’m sure it definitely would have helped stabilize the load. A couple months ago I replaced the end links and bushings on both front and rear. I do have Timbrens on as well back when I took the rear bar off. . Just wondering if I need to replace my rear springs and bushings to eventually. Truck has 298,000 miles on the clock. You know just barely broke in. 😎

  • Author

I have the 6 spd so I’m not changing anything that way.

I’m buying a new 3 axle toyhauler that’s about 44’ long and 16k lbs.

I’m gonna buy some extended Synergy rear sway bar links and the Timbrens as well just to make it as bullet proof as possible. I actually ended up reusing the oem blocks so I could use Timbrens, the taper is too excessive and no matter how you install it the pinion angle is too far off. That’s a mistake on my end I though it would correct this. The oem blocks made everything perfect again.

Most likely crack the frame but the springs should be fine :)

Edited by Mace

16k that’s some weight! Anyone ever box these frames?

Edited by Threadzy
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3 hours ago, Mace said:

I’m buying a new 3 axle toy hauler that’s about 44’ long and 16k lbs.

What's the pin weight, empty/gross, on the truck's rear axle? Is that 16k lbs. empty or gross?

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