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Injectors 75 hp

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I am looking to put around 75 hp injectors in my truck. what is the best and what is the worst brand, and has any one had there stock injectors rebuilt to 75 hp. I have a friend that has his stock injectors that I can rebuild and give him my set after we install them. Thanks

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You are running a tunner or plugin to. He is not.

Thats only going to make it worse ....... more fuel :) Just saying - some injectors are a little dirtier due to lift/stroke and modifications ..... I think jammers are known for this ........ but mine burns pretty clean :) About to put a hx40 on though ....... and she will smoke a little more down low:thumb1:

Anything from DDP, SDX, or CPP is going to be a good injector. Those guys put alot of time and effort into their product. I would stay away from industrial injection. I have a buddy that does injectors at a small local shop and said every injector from II that he has tested has been all over the place in pop pressures. :2cents:

My 200 over injectors haze at just about any speed.At 50 mph it is like a bread crumb trail,I can turn around and find my way back:lmao2:.Still get 16 mpg with them.Last year i took them out.I like the mpg of my 40 over better.They only puff smoke when i shift,and just a deep haze if i hammer on it.

Thats funny right there. :lol:

I am looking at some 125 hp injectors this summer. I am figuring that if I turn the Juice all the way down and keep my foot out of it I should be able to minimize the smoke. If I do hammer it, I am still hoping to keep the smoke level very low. I do understand that if I turn the Juice all the way up and hammer it, I will get a lot more smoke, but hopefully not too much. Once I get the cash later for a new turbo, that should take care of the smoke ( I hope). :2cents:

I have ran a lot of injectors, my favorite is DDP 50's, not much smoke. Great egt's. The Coal Train 75 hp a little hot but not uncontrolable. For the money you cant beat RV 275's.

  • 1 month later...

My vote goes to Jacob Kidd as well. I bought some things from him about a year ago, when he was just selling threw e-bay. He was able to match the best prices I could find on the exact same products, plus he helped me get a 20% rebate from e-bay. He knows his way around our 24v trucks, and can tell you what works well together and what doesn't. Here's a link to his injectors; http://www.dieselautopower.com/Diesel_injectors_24v_p/dap%20injectors%2098-02.htm

  • 1 month later...

Since you have a 2001, you should think about J-hooking your turbo, the HY-35's will not handle the heat as well as the HX's do.Torque management is another vixin, athough i would say if you do ANYTHING, do a shift kit at a minimum, my auto lived long enough before i finally put one in, but by then it would slip in O/D with the injectors i added.I got 60hp injectors from J-kidd, Jacob is a good guy and knows his stuff, The DAP injectors were inhouse remans but with new internals, they bore out the injector holes a bit just enough to give you a shortened duration for a quieter burn. As such my truck is quieter all around and especially at idle, when you take my 08 dodge and oput the EB on it is as loud as the 08 now. MUCH quieter then the stock 215's.I have a little over 5,000 miles on my DAP injectors and no issues minum fuel in the oil(from worn out VP-44), and slipping trans(injectors to much for her).I would recommend you do this in this order.1. Gauges, Pyro, trans temp, and fuel pressure2. Shift kit for trans3. injectors4. Smarty to turn the TM donw to as low as you can get.1. The reason you need gauges is because you need to know how your drive train is running. Your exhaust temps are a combination of fueling, timing, and boost pressure, if any of the 3 are out of normal then yes you will have bad temps, 2. You need a shift kit at a minimum, these stock auto's can barely hold onto a Cummins motor let alone take the abuse of and additional 60HP and 140lbs or torque through the motor,3. Injectors its your choice, but with a 01, that has a HY and if you have a desire to tow stings i would say 75's at a most.4. I suggest a smarty, but there are other options out there, the reason i suggest a smarty is multi fold. 1. You can turn down torque management, 2. You can change how fast the engine will get to top speed. 3. it gives you more low end (1,200-1,800rpm) torque which if you tow is very useful. It can also read codes change your speed and all that toher stuff, but i suggest is for those reason above.Now you should also understand that unless you TAP the Vp-44 pump you will not get much more then 60HP or so from any PROGRAMMER, this includes edge comps and quads if you tap the pump feel free to get much more.Also, the smarty is the only programmer besides the BD rad box that will tunr down TM, to an almost invisible level, the BD rad box will do it but you will run the great risk of loosing your instrument cluster, which is fine if you plan to sled pull, or use mechanical gauges.Now i should also note that your programmer will add Hp on top of your current mechanical horsepower, so for example 215HP+60Hp=275Hp(this is pump HP+Injector HP=total mechanical HP, now add the chip Hp, of a smarty 60Hp and you get ~335HP, so now in order to get the most of that HP you need to run about 34-35psi of boost to get that number of HP,(diesels are roughly 10hp per 1psi of boost) this is where your HY turbo becomes the major limit, the HY starts to max out around 30-35psi while the HX will max ou higher. Even with a Jhook don't think you can run higher without over speeding the turbo, or pumping hot air through your engine which can be worse.:smart: Now i should also say this is all theoritical of course, but i do believe my math is correct in layments terms used.Anyways, this is how i learned diesel engine work.

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    My 75hp jammers smoke alot! on level 3 I can get them to smoke alot. On level 6 it will pour coal all the way through acceleraton it will also hit 1700+ degres on the egt!:stuned:

    That's how my stockers are running these days, it's really pissing me off.... can hardly pull hills without having to back out due to temps, I think some have to be sticking and throwing timing off (p7100.)

    That's how my stockers are running these days, it's really pissing me off.... can hardly pull hills without having to back out due to temps, I think some have to be sticking and throwing timing off (p7100.)

    Mr Mindless, you may not be having injector problems. Does your truck have a cat on it? Mine did and my '94 did when I got it. What happens is the cat plugs and you will run hot on the pyro, have smoke issues, and eventually not be able to build much boost. It happened to my '96.

    That sounds like a great reason to straight pipe that exhaust to me. I like the sound of mine with the muffler/resonator delete installed. It's not much louder than the factory exhaust, lowered my EGT's about 100 degrees, and cost about $30 to have a muffler shop fab it up for me to install. It's litteraly a "straight pipe" 3" tubing with flares on each end.

    That sounds like a great reason to straight pipe that exhaust to me. I like the sound of mine with the muffler/resonator delete installed. It's not much louder than the factory exhaust, lowered my EGT's about 100 degrees, and cost about $30 to have a muffler shop fab it up for me to install. It's litteraly a "straight pipe" 3" tubing with flares on each end.

    I would look into a Performance muffler/resonator then. I got one from Walt when i did my exhaust system and i like it alot considering i don't go def. when im towing.

    It's honestly not very loud, the turbo actually does quite a lot to quiet down the exhaust, and it's only 3" tubing. A straight piped exhaust in 4"or 5" is way louder. If I go to a turbo back system , it'll be a 4" with a performance muffler - those are supposed to be good up to 500 HP. J. Kidd can cut you a deal on one of those setups as well (under $300 if I remember right).

    4" straight pipe with a resonator.I'm due for valve lash and head retorque soon, I'll check timing and probably pull injectors for a test then too.

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