i filled my tank up the day my tranny crapped out. so it is sitting in the driveway with a full tank of fuel. it could be a couple of months before i get it back on the road. how long can the the fuel sit there before it degrades and is there something i can doto prolong its life? really dont have anything else to run it in.

Oh you would be surprised! Don't worry your not the only one that fell for the marketing ploy!

i thought i had read enough here to see the filters on the ad were not as advertised. but do they not filter better than the oe filter alone? i currently have mine ad connected to the stock canister and a big line kit to the vp.

i thought i had read enough here to see the filters on the ad were not as advertised. but do they not filter better than the oe filter alone? i currently have mine ad connected to the stock canister and a big line kit to the vp.

it gets its filtration over a multi pass system, bottom like is the FASS 95 fuel filter is marginal compared to a Baldwin1212, which is rated at i think 2um on a single pass. EDIT: sorry the OEM filter filters better then then aftermarket company ones, but that is because BOSCH set the standard for that filter.

I don't know... This is getting confusing. Maybe it is because I am a newbee, however, I have spent untold hours reading all I can to understand and what I am finding is... This breaks... put that on..., put that on... then I need something else..., then thats crap... I take good care of my trucks, never abuse them. I want something to last me ten years or more and not have to work on it all the time.

it gets its filtration over a multi pass system, bottom like is the FASS 95 fuel filter is marginal compared to a Baldwin1212, which is rated at i think 2um on a single pass. EDIT: sorry the OEM filter filters better then then aftermarket company ones, but that is because BOSCH set the standard for that filter.

if i am getting this right you are saying that the oe filter(the one that was in the truck new) filters better than the aftermarket replacements for the oe canister. or the AD filters are so crappy that the two of them will not filter as good as the one in the canister oe or after market.

To give FASS and AD a little credit they have started improving their filters. I guess they had enough of me bashing them all over the forums a few years ago about worse than stock filtration! So the stock VP44 filter was 10um absolute with 95% free and 95% emulsifed water sep, the HPCR filter is 7um absolute with 98% free water sep and 95% emulsified water sep.. So here are the original specs FASS 95 (little filters) 10um absolute, 50% free water 0% emulsified water.. water removal ratings were at 20 GPH on a 95 GPH pump. FASS 95 (big filters) and FASS 150. 3um absolute (multipass, so unknown single pass.. but prob 5-10 single), 0% free water and 0% emulsified water. AD's 5um absolute 50% free water 0% emulsified water.. water removal ratings were at 20 GPH on a 95 to 165 GPH pump. Updated filters FASS Titanium and Platinum, 4um absolute, 95% free water sep, 90% emulsified water sep. GPH ratings are fine for a 95 GPH pump, 150 is a little under rated. FASS HD (If it has the upgraded f/w sep.. I don't know if they are upgraded at FASS yet or not). 3um absolute (multipass, so unknown single pass.. but prob 5-10 single), 98% free water and 95% emulsifed water sep at 90 GPH. AD's 5um absolute, 95% free water sep and 75% emulsifed water sep at 90 GPH. As you can see the FASS Titanium and Platinum are the only ones that come close to OEM overall filtration (which includes f/w separation). The ADs can have a Baldwin BF1275 and a Donaldson P551315 put on them for 99% free water and 96% emulsified water removal and 3um filtration, at 120 GPH.. which is probably fine because I believe the GPH ratings are at zero psi, so at 15ish psi the flow is much lower. Nothing you can do on the FASS HD. FASS Platinum is pretty good, even better if you run it thru the OEM filter. FASS Titanium can have a Baldwin BF1275 added and get the 99% free, 96.5% emulsified removal rating.

there you are! i knew it was a matter of time before you pop'ed into this thread. what do you think of this filtration kit being post FASS but pre VP-44? http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/product.aspx?pf_id=FW1220-TFK Or this one with the heater http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/product.aspx?pf_id=MK79852-BLKH

I would put a Baldwin BF1275 on your FASS for the f/w sep and then call FASS and get the adapter to run a different thread filter for the fuel filter and run a Donaldson P551313 and then thru the OEM canister and call it good.. you will have CLEAN fuel.

Nothing you can do on the FASS HD. FASS Platinum is pretty good, even better if you run it thru the OEM filter. FASS Titanium can have a Baldwin BF1275 added and get the 99% free, 96.5% emulsified removal rating. I would put a Baldwin BF1275 on your FASS for the f/w sep and then call FASS and get the adapter to run a different thread filter for the fuel filter and run a Donaldson P551313 and then thru the OEM canister and call it good.. you will have CLEAN fuel.

My OEM filter is long gone, i can't even find the parts for it anymore, this is how much faith i had in the FASS fuel filters when i put it on my truck!

So now on my fass 150 I use a NAPA#3422 that on thier websit says its a 2micron and a NAPA #1202 that on thier website is a 5micron are these good filters or what:shrug:? Thanks:thumb1:

The 3422 is 2um nominal, which is generally a 50% rating. That could be anywhere from 5um to 10um absolute. One of the reasons I don't like Wix filters is they don't publish water separation rates, nor do they publish absolute ratings on most filters. The few filters that have an absolute rating don't filter as good as the filter they are crossed to. The 1202 part number doesn't come up.

I take good care of my trucks, never abuse them. I want something to last me ten years or more and not have to work on it all the time.

As for the original post on fuel life & degredation... Talked to a friend of mine (super smart chemistry whiz and energy industry guy) and he gave me the below information regarding bacteria and "algae" in fuels.

Water is the root of the problem with bacteria growth in petroleum. Mostly anaerobic bacteria. Regardless, they live at the water-oil interface. Algae require light, the scum in diesel with water live in total darkness. Aldehydes, typically gluteraldehyde, work well and are tolerated by the engines/fuel pumps etc. Takes about 50 ppm to be effective. The most effective is prevention.

Varnishing of gasoline is from oxygen. Keep air off gasoline (like argon/nitrogen blanket/purge of storage containers) and it will last much longer. Same thing with diesel.

I bought a 5kW diesel generator, military surplus. Its 6.75 gallon day tank is nearly gone from rust, the fuel in the filters smells nothing like diesel. There are three filters, a strainer and two cartridge types. The cleanest one? The middle one as it still was full of fuel. Without air, the fuel could not react. But the strainer and the final filter were nearly dry, meaning air reacted with the remaining diesel, turning it into varnish.

So, how did I clean the housings? Pro Shot Copper Solvent IV. Yeah, a gun cleaning product works without effort. Wet the dirty part with it, wait 30 minutes, rinse with WATER. Dirt gone. Also works on engine varnish. About $14 a pint, and it works good on guns too. Doesn't smell bad either although not like Hoppe's perfume.

I will add though, that gluteraldehyde is very nasty, and isn't something I would want to keep around or breathe.

I think the take aways from this are when storing a vehicle for long periods, fill the tank, drive for a bit, let it sit to let the water settle out, drain the sumps, and then drain the water / fuel filter. Fuel stabilizers like Sta-Bil (according to the msds) do not include the gluteraldehyde mentioned above.

Moar!

CSM - I wonder if the recent spike in contamination that we are seeing is from the mandated bio diesel having water in it. I have been seeing a bunch of clogged filters from the diesel generators that get filled up in bio diesel states.

Thanks!

Certainly. Also, bio-diesel has oxygen in it and it a much better bacterial food. All it takes is a single drop of water for the fuel to turn into a bacterial zoo since the oxygen is used by bacteria to MAKE MORE WATER! There is plenty of hydrogen in the fuel.

Also, many more types of bacteria can grow in fatty acid methyl esters (bio-diesel's technical name). Think of esters as salts of fatty acids and alcohol, oil of wintergreen (Ben *** smelly ingredient), that lovely smell of Hoppe's #9 and the smell of bananas are all examples of esters. Fatty acids have TWO oxygen atoms per molecule.

I'm no fan of bio-diesel for this reason. Two stroke engine oil, one ounce per 3 gallons of fuel. Good stuff.

I asked about the 1oz/gal of 2 stroke oil, his reply.

You won't have an issue with that much oil, the VP44 can deal with it. Just cost. My diesel is a 2000 VW TDI. Yeah, towing 1400 pounds is a piece of cake, it still gets 35 MPG if the wind isn't much. But I had a headwind and was doing 75 MPH so it dropped to 28 MPG. Electric trailer brakes too . It can tow 2000 pounds but with a weight distribution hitch which is big bucks from Germany.

Oh, I also clean out the catalytic converter on my diesel by towing the generator (960 pounds) about 200 miles. Instead of running 1-2 PSI average boost, it was 5-6. EGTs were in the 1100 F range for hours. Normally, the exhaust soot is visible after that much driving, not this time.. And no soot haze when doing full power launches, just wheel smoke.