Hi guys,

I've got to get a fuel pressure gauge coming and put into this truck of mine. I'm not one to be constantly changing things for the fun of it. I need to build my truck up as it is my work truck and as such is my breadwinner and dependability is #1 for me. I'm going to have to add things in stages, as I'm sure the whole “things are tight” story is rather familiar. So I'm trying to think ahead and not waste effort. Let me explain what I *think* I've figure out and the route I think I'll take to get there and PLEASE give me all the feed back you want. I've been reading so many threads, the head is swimming.

I plan on a conservative approach. I think I would like some more power eventually as I need this for pulling a trailer with skidsteer and such. So, I need to add the pressure gauge NOW to make sure I'm not killing my VP44. (Gonna be running two stroke at 1oz/1gal) Next, I think I'll add the trans temp gauge to monitor my tranny while pulling. Then my EGT's next. Lastly, it's the boost I need to monitor, correct? I am also thinking of adding the Raptor 100 and plumbing it to the bowl like I read someone else has done. (Or should I just go to an AirDog 100?)

I plan to either put in an A-pilar gauge set or go with a computer to display all the other read outs. But I do not want to spend money twice.

I am looking at putting the fuel pressure gauge on the steering column. To do that, I am considering this pod to hold the actual gauge = http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp?number=GM-DG-15012

Then as far as a gauge, I think I want the mechanical(tell me why I shouldn't? If I go with a computer later, is that going to be a problem?) so I am thinking of running this one from geno's http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp?number=ISS-R5604R

To this, I realize that I need to go buy a needle valve from the auto store. Still learning where it needs to go, but trying to get my parts list together as well as the details.

Add to that, if I understand correctly, I need a bango bolt like this http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp?number=BF-LONG-TAPPED to run this with. As I am thinking that I like the look of adding the raptor 100 to the system.

Also, am I needing to get this hose kit to connect to the fuel filter? http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp?number=VULCAN-FH

Ok, I think that get's the ball rolling. What am I leaving out? Or is there an easier/better way than what I am talking about?

Shoot....just looked and “re-found” this post that I had forgotten about http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/4351-Need-help-setting-up-fuel-psi-gauge and am now have got myself confused. Maybe I won't be ordering this weekend. I may have to wait and talk to someone on Monday.

Thanks for all the help.

jamman

--- Update to the previous post...

Oh, very seriously thinking that I am going to need to add a pac-brake or Jacob's.

LOL, IBMobile!Try again. I'm sure you'll get it worked out. Still would love to see it.

Here it is. I was able to get the photo off the hard drive and didn't use photobucket.

I have never used vulcan but Diesel manor has always been great and they offer military discount!

98white, I was re-reading this and your posts finally sunk in. I do find it interesting you want to move away from your computer as your full gauge display and go to all mechanicals. I think I need to get comfortable with just an A-pillar setup.

I feel that mechanical gauges are more accurate and trouble free and really just like the look of them better. I bought the quad commander years ago for my 03 when I first got into diesels and it was cheaper as a combo with a quadzilla xzilleraider than standalone gauges and a smarty. Had I known what I know now I would have a different settup.

It would be a lot better having mechanical gauges. My stupid oil pressure gauge keeps flickering between pressure and no pressure, like there are air bubbles in the system. I can check the oil and its fine. A mechanical gauge would tell me for sure as the OEM is just a POS indicator basically. The RPM is another thing. The OEM gauge is worthless and should only be used to getting within 25-50RPM. I noticed on the 24V's the RPM on the edge or scangauge varies like 5RPM, making me think the sensor isn't the best. The RPM gauge I got is digital and you put a magnet on the damper for it to pick up signal, I put 4 on it equally spaced to get a damn accurate reading and the RPM at idle is rock solid, not this 5RPM varying crap. If the engine gets a degree warmer, the rpm goes up accordingly with the reduced friction. I can see everything, even rolling up the windows can be seen as a few rpm drop. If I had it my way I would get rid of every sweeping gauge in place of a digital one, which I am slowly doing. Airplanes know how far they have left to fly very accurately, they would be screwed with the gauges in these trucks and it drives me nuts not knowing something very accurately. I would really like to know my exact speed down to one decimal place but GPS takes too long to refresh speeds and I don't know if there is something out there that accurate that doesn't use GPS.

All I have is some night pics of my Isspros, mech fuel pressure gauge as well as boost and pyro. Had these installed in my truck for right around 2 years now and they're still working great! Only have 2 pics and they're not the best quality.

-Jordan-

i have always liked the physical gauges myself. but iguess if you are getting ggod info on what ever gauge you are using what differance could it make. i just dont want to be messing with a computer screen to see them. mine are all right in fornt of me, though the factory stuff is a little iffy on accuracy.

jamman, thanks for the post. We are both at the exact same point with our trucks. I read this thread and got straightened out on what I need to do. [i think] This is all new to me so I am learning by reading.

Also, I noticed in one post that you said you were going to check out your waste gate. I meant to look at mine today as I question if it is working properly. Is your having problems? Sorry, don't mean to get off subject here, if there is a thread regarding this please direct me. I have been a member here for about an hour and am still bumbling around. This has been a good read and saved me from asking the same question, I was just looking in Geno's catalog for a FP gauge 3 hours ago. Didn't really know what I was doing...

Bob in WV.

Just for more options, here are mine:

Is the needle valve still necessary if one uses the isloator instead of straight plumbing it into the cab? Where exactly does the banjo bolt tap in at? Last question, where does the sending unit for the low fuel pressure light go?

Is the needle valve still necessary if one uses the isloator instead of straight plumbing it into the cab? Where exactly does the banjo bolt tap in at? Last question, where does the sending unit for the low fuel pressure light go?

if you are using a mechical gauge and it starts leaking you can just turn it off and fix the problem when you get somewhere to do it. the banjo bolt we were talking about before is on the vp where the fuel line connects. that is the one with the schrader valve. you could tap into that for both your gauge and your low pressures sending unit. Water hammer there is going to be strong. you can talk to eric at vulcan or another place of your choosing and tell them what you are wanting to do and they should be able to set you up with what you need. i did the big line kit and tapped into it for my gauge. you could use that tap for both with the proper plumbing. i dont have a warning might get one some day.

Dripley, I went through Geno's and bought a Isspro EV mechanincal gauge w/islolator, a banjo snubber, vulcan line that makes connecting the isolator to the banjo snubber very easy, Geno's gives you a gauge mount faceplate for the cubby hole free if you buy the gauge from them. It really wasn't hard to hook up. I took out the cup holder (6 screws) it made running the line to the gauge easy and I just hooked the light in the gauge to the light in the cup holder (it dims). Have a new fuel filter on hand as it is a good time to change that if it needs it. I forgot to order a green bulb cover for the gauge and it looks really out of place with a white light.It took me about 3-4 hours. I am slow and am sure others can do it much faster, I am crippled. Have some teflon tape, the yellow is supposed to be for fuel unless someone else has a better idea.The guage comes with good instructions. The bolt on the bottom of the fuel canister is 17mm if memory serves me.Don't forget to close the dump valve on the fuel canister before bumping the starter to prime the system. It makes a real mess. (yes I did)My idling pressure is 7 psiWOT pressure is 3.5 psiI am glad I put the gauge in!The gauge cost 138.00Vulcan line 19.00Banjo Snubber 17.95Total $174.95Guess what I am going to doing soon....

i would say you are going to be putting a new lift pump in very soon or you are going to be putting in a new vp also. that pressure is seriously low. you need to get upwards of 17 idle, 15 wot. i have my AD set at 20 idle, and it drops to 16.5 wot.

Yes, the sooner the better. I am going to order one on Monday. I just need to educate myself enough to know which to buy and which one would be easiest to install. I am probably going to stay near stock, as far as modifications. I was told the current pump is in the tank. (haven't looked to verify this) I won't drive it for now.

the raptor pumps are good, and reasonbly priced. the AD i put in mine was way overkill.but i figured i woud cover myself if i ever wanted to get crazy with mods. talk to DAP he would be a big help in deciding. he is on the vendors list here.

I must be looking right past it, but where is the Vendors list located?

it is in the community forum. first listing. vendors and dealers. if ti makes ya feel any better i had to look for it too.

I must be looking right past it, but where is the Vendors list located?

Here you go... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/dealers/dealers.htm Then... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/forums/67-Vendors-amp-Dealers

I tried to contact DAP, sent and email 2 days ago, tried to call, no answer, so I ordered and Air Dog 100 with the big line kit and Draw straw V from Vulcan. Eric at Vulcan was very knowledgable and answered all my questions. Now, comes the dirty work...Bob