If it wasnt for bad luck I wouldnt have any luck at all!... Now my 01 24 valve is spitting oil out the dipstick bad! I get a puffing noise from where you ad oil in the valve cover. Checked the puke box nothing wrong with it. What the heck is going on???:banghead: Is there another vent for the crank I am missing? Or could it be the vacuum pump again? It runs rough and smoking white. :banghead:

Just pull the head and find out like I told you 2 weeks ago.

Your going to end up pulling the head for sure... Mosty likely got a melted piston... 100 PSI is just way too low... Not to mention the other 5 being 300 PSI is rather low too. So You going to need to open it up and see what damages you got... No other need for any other test you just need to pop that head off.

have you pulled the head yet and if so what was the verdict

Not likely a valve guide. But all of these possibilities require the head to come off. Even "just a bad valve guide" means the head must go to a machine shop.

My question is how did it happen when he says he didn't get it hot? Is it possible that #1 injector was leaking really bad and caused that cylinder to run a lot hotter? No doubt he has an issue with compression leaking into the crankcase, I just want to hear the causes of something like that when you just drive around normally.

My question is how did it happen when he says he didn't get it hot? Is it possible that #1 injector was leaking really bad and caused that cylinder to run a lot hotter? No doubt he has an issue with compression leaking into the crankcase, I just want to hear the causes of something like that when you just drive around normally.

i can hear a couple of my injectors hitting a little harder than the rest due to wear. especially when cold (stock original injectors 169,000 miles)

with a injector leaking ,he should have noticed the tataltail extra smoke,the motor developing a slite miss ,and the raize in temp .all bad signs that could have saved it before hurting a piston.bad injectors are cauze of many a motor failure

No have not pulled the head yet. Exhuasting all options first. I was going to do a leak down test, as suggested, but ran into a problem. I pulled all injectors placed the adapter in the #1 injector hole began turning the motor over with a barring tool while the wife was watching for TDC at the puke box location. She informed me the injection pump was not turning. Sooo I began taking the front apart to find that problem and found out she was wrong. She didnt understand the injection pump turned slow while I was turning the barring tool slowly. What a mess up. Needless to say I stopped and checked it made her turn the barring tool and caught it before I took the cover off. Now back to where I was. Im going to leak down test it first before I take the head off.I am still amazed that anything went wrong seeing it never got hot!!:banghead:

Getting hot is a very small factor in it. Could be a broken ring could be worn rings from bad or dirty air filter in the past "dusting", could have been a dirty injector spaying inconsistantly causing a hot spot on the piston which could melt a small hole in piston. Pistons can and do fail for other reasons. Could be washed out cylider walls from faulty injectors or another symptom of "dusting" could be a scored cylinder wall caused by one or several of above descriptions or from using poor quality oil, excessive uneccesary idle time will cause this as well. A broken or dropped valve seat or a previous injector tip failure could have damaged the piston and over time it created a hole or scoring. Until you get the head off you will not know. You are wasting your time with doing all the extra tests, you already know it is internal damage. With The time you have spent chasing you could have had it almost fixed already. If the compression test failed why would you think a leak down test would give any different results?

l have to agree with w+f head needs too come off

Wild & Free is right... Once you failed the compression test you know there is internal damage now... Any other test you perform is going to fail too... So it time to knuckle down and get the tool box out and fix the problem the more you drive it around the more damage the engine is taking. So of course the long you wait the more expensive it is to fix...

been telling him this from the begining

I have not been drivin it.

Well decided to just change the motor, seeing how I found with low miles cheap. Then I can take my time and rebuild the old one. Does anybody know any tricks on getting the motor out? I know the front end has to come off, but does the oil pan or the rocker bridges have to come off? Or is there another way?

Oil pan and pickup tube have to come off first... While you got the engine up pul the engine mounts off too makes it a bit easier I hear...ISX has pulled his 12V out and put it back out in a weekend fairly easy...

Would it be easier to pull off the last two valve bridges instead? Just looking at options.

my dad pulled one in a 99 after a buddy of ours had the 53 crack in just a few hhours with out pullin the oil pan nor the valve cover he pulled the radiator air cooler muved the ac condencer out of the way and took the motor mount bolts out and wiggled it out and even left the tranny settin in there :thumbup2:was a little of a pain linning the tranny back up during install tho:banghead:

when you get this done, tear the old engine apart and let us know what you find, im very curious as to what the issue is.

im courious too pics would be nice also

Trust me I'm curious too and I will tell you what was wrong

--- Update to the previous post...

my dad pulled one in a 99 after a bud

dy of ours had the 53 crack in just a few hhours with out pullin the oil pan nor the valve cover he pulled the radiator air cooler muved the ac condencer out of the way and took the motor mount bolts out and wiggled it out and even left the tranny settin in there :thumbup2:was a little of a pain linning the tranny back up during install tho:banghead:

was the 99 a 4 wheel drive or 2 wheel drive