Heard the tick, tick backing out of the garage this AM. Went to work, and got home 30 minutes ago. Just got done checking the axle u-joints, and I've got a dry cap on the drivers side!! I just greased the front end less than 4000 miles ago, and the axle u-joints looked good. I got grease to ooze out all the caps back then.Anyhow, if I'm gonna have the front end apart again, I'm going with a free-spin kit to save on doing axle u-joints every 50-60,000 miles. Just wondering what the resident experts here thought was the best/most economical kit to go with. There's DynaTrac, SpynTech, and I think one or two others.Must be all the trailer maneuvering I do at the barns I work at. Thanks guys.

Just think if you added new injectors to your rig now. Another 2 mpg would probably get your attention.

I hear what you're saying; but I don't want to change anything now unless I truly have to. MightyWhitey is running too good right now for that. Besides, I may FUBAR something up in the process!!!!

Why buy the kit? these are Dana 60's right? 8 lug, why not take the front spindles off a ford f250/350? my dad has a 00 ford f250 with real locking hubs. dana 60. so at most i would have to change the brake lines. and maybe the stub shaft. these parts should be really easy to find in a junk yard...enlighten me...

Why buy the kit? these are Dana 60's right? 8 lug, why not take the front spindles off a ford f250/350? my dad has a 00 ford f250 with real locking hubs. dana 60. so at most i would have to change the brake lines. and maybe the stub shaft. these parts should be really easy to find in a junk yard... enlighten me...

While I did do the SpynTec kit; I do understand what you're saying. And I'm sure there's a very good reason why this cannot be done, but I truly don't know what it is. If this was possible, it'd been done years ago IMHO. There'll be some folks that are smarter than I am reply here shortly that can more directly answer your question.

I'd really like to get a free spin kit for my '06. I just can't justify the cost of a kit at this point. Sure would be nice though to have 2wd Low range!(If anyone hears of a great deal on one, please yell!!)

Why buy the kit? these are Dana 60's right? 8 lug, why not take the front spindles off a ford f250/350? my dad has a 00 ford f250 with real locking hubs. dana 60. so at most i would have to change the brake lines. and maybe the stub shaft. these parts should be really easy to find in a junk yard... enlighten me...

They aren't a Dana 60, Dodge hasn't used Dana axles (front or rear) since 2002. Ford does have hubs, but they also have sealed bearings just like the AAM in the Dodges. The hubs are one part, the stronger, greasable bearings are another aspect. Does his F250 have a D60 or D50? I was pretty sure than unless you got a DRW you got a D50 on the Super Duty's, which IIRC it's a D60 housing with some D60 and some D44 parts, thus the D50 designation. It has been many, many, years since I looked into this any I may not remember it correctly.

EMS Offroad also sells a kit, I believe it may be a bit cheaper than Spyntec or Dynatrac...I could be wrong though, it's been a while since I compared prices. I believe the locking hub conversion, from a ford to a Dodge MAY have only been possible with the early second gens, but I could be wrong...There was a huge thread over on Pirate4x4, where they used a lot of Ford TTB 50 parts to make it work, but I don't remember whether the truck was a later 2nd gen or an early 2nd gen...it makes a big difference, as the 01-02 trucks were not a true D60, they were a mutt of D60 and AAM axles, which is why the 01-02 can upgrade to the 3rd gen brakes, but the 94-99 cannot. I cried a little bit inside when I found that out...I was really hoping to move my rotors to the outside of the hub.

first off, my bad, i didn't read that this thread was for 3rd gen CR trucks.My truck is a 02 and it had Dana axles. my rotors are outside the hub. easy to remove. i've looked at my dad truck it's a true dana 60. some of them had a 44/60 hybrid 50. the 60 dif and 44 outers. i'm going to look into this more. i have access to lotsa fords here in the junk yards!!!

3rd gen rotors are also outside the hub and just slide off once the corrosion and calipers are removed. Let us know what you find.

Just over 21,000 miles since the install. Not one problem at all, and I haven't had a tank of fuel under average under 20mpg since the warmer weather has gotten here.............since about early April!!!:thumb1:This is definitely a mod I would highly recommend!!!

Update:

 

Just over 31,000 miles on the SpynTec hub kit now.  Still not one problem at all.  With the winterized fuel, I'm still getting around 18+mpg.

 

In regards to the Mile Marker hubs;  I've used them about 10x as much so far this Winter as all of last Winter.  They still turn to engage and disengage quite easily……………….but I've got gorilla hands.  They also don't have that "gritty" feel as I turn them…………..like many manual hubs get after a while.  I'll probably pull them apart late summer/early fall when I get around 50,000 miles on them to repack the bearings.

 

So far so good……………….probably just jinxed myself now.

I gotta admit,   the  Toyota  I bought last month has  the  free spin  hubs..   and   with  it's  whopping  112 horsepower,  IT DOES MAKE A DIFFERENCE!!!

 

I forget,  does  the  spyntech hubs  use  Timken bearings?

 

 

I forget,  does  the  spyntech hubs  use  Timken bearings?

 

 

Yes.

Just over 41,000 miles on the SpynTech lock out hub kit on MightyWhitey now.  Not one single problem with them at all.  I truly believe they've helped my mileage by at least 1-1.5mpg.  They still turn very easily without the "gritty" feely many manual hubs get.

According to the real quick math I did, figuring fuel at 4$ a gallon it will take more than 150,000 miles for these hubs to pay for themselves in fuel savings. Since fuel is currently cheaper it will be more miles.

According to the real quick math I did, figuring fuel at 4$ a gallon it will take more than 150,000 miles for these hubs to pay for themselves in fuel savings. Since fuel is currently cheaper it will be more miles.

 

There is also wheel bearing cost savings, and u-joint savings.

 

But $$ isn't the real reason to do it, it's the better steering, bearings, and 2Lo.

There is also wheel bearing cost savings, and u-joint savings.

 

But $$ isn't the real reason to do it, it's the better steering, bearings, and 2Lo.

Personally, I like manual hubs better.

Dynatrac has $200 rebate on these until end of Sept. Sold one last week.   Its still expensive.  

Dynatrac has $200 rebate on these until end of Sept. Sold one last week.   Its still expensive.  

 

 

But worth it IMHO!!!

Just over 41,000 miles on the SpynTech lock out hub kit on MightyWhitey now.  Not one single problem with them at all.  I truly believe they've helped my mileage by at least 1-1.5mpg.  They still turn very easily without the "gritty" feely many manual hubs get.

Dorkweed, I`m ready to pull the trigger on some spintecs, and I just have a couple questions.

 

1. How did you cut the hole in your hub covers?

 

2. Have you had any issue with the chrome peeling ? I noted another poster complained about this.

a hole saw in a  drill press  should  make  a nice hole..   And  I'd bet the  raw edge  would  be a  great place for the  chrome film to start  peeling

 

I was going to suggest   buying  a set of  ebay knockoffs  to   modify.. (hubcaps)  I see a set of 4  for  60 bucks   http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-RAM-2500-TRUCK-VAN-16-CHROME-Wheel-Center-Hub-Caps-8-Lug-Bolt-Nut-Rim-Covers-/221186997588?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item337fc5bd54&vxp=mtr